LisbonMuch of the old part of the city, where we stayed, has narrow streets of black and white basalt stone lined with buildings standing shoulder to shoulder.
Following our disasters in Madrid, Jay and I fled to Salamanca Thursday to get the earliest train to Lisbon. We thought an overnight train from Madrid would cost more, so we took the free ride to Salamanca, stayed in the train station -- after having the great fortune of replacing Pacman the Sacman -- and grabbed a 5 am train to Lisboa. The train was one of the shadiest shitboxes I have ever seen in my life. It was probably 40 years old and had the old-fashioned cabins with sliding doors. There were sleeper rooms, but that was definitely extra. We
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