Baking above the Clouds in Tromsø and Norwegian Rock Bar

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Arriving in the morning, Glyn quickly spotted the Arctic Cathedral through our porthole - we had arrived In Tromsø, the largest northern settlement in Norway. The sun was shining, the sky blue and the breeze welcoming.

We walked to the nearby Polaria which like most (if not all) attractions in Tromsø is all about cold stuff. This began with a panoramic film about Svalbard, featuring very cute polar bears but no blue foxes. We walked through informative yet depressing displays about the glaciers melting and why the arctic ice is required to reflect heat off the planet on which we reside. Maps illustrated the shrinking ice over the decades and marks high in the walls displayed how much thinner the ice became each year (47 cms). They explained how arctic ice gives scientists information on climate over 100,000s years, some up to 1.5 million and gives us an indication on what it should be now - the quick answer is that it’s all going pear shaped very quickly.

Huge fish tanks contained artic marine life, with domes to stick your head in. Some domes were above us, dripping with condensation and it was bizarre to watch the fish swimming around my head. I’ve no idea what the fish thought!

There was also a big tank containing two bearded seals and two arctic seals, with a glass tunnel so you could walk underneath them. It’s nice to see them close up, but I’d rather see them in the wild. They did get fed a lot though,

Our next destination was over the water, so we walked to the nearby Tromsø bridge that is about a kilometre long. The walkway is fenced from the traffic and it feels quite steep on foot as it is arched, so we were both in T-shirts despite the cool breeze. The impressive triangular arctic cathedral was on the other side, with glass frontage and blooming flowerbeds. We didn’t go in, as a fiver for a cathedral when we’ve seen so many was excessive. Apparently there’s a really good stained glass window, but that’s about it.

Walking through a beautiful residential area of Solliveien, Tromsdalen, I finally saw a cat on a porch! A true sign that we had returned to civilisation. Each house was different, colourful and pretty. The Norwegians were taking advantage of the sunshine, washing cars and motorbikes. They’re not particularly friendly, but not rude either.

Eventually we arrived at the Fjellheisen cable car, that goes up to the mountain ledge of Storsteinen, 421 m above sea level, opposite the main part of Tromsø. The top of the hill had been shrouded in cloud since we arrived, but we continued in false hope of it clearing. Cheesy music played as the car ascended and after a few minutes we were at the top, just in time to get to the viewing platform to see a birds eye view of Tromsø before the cloud swallowed it up. The hillside was covered in thick evergreens, the first trees we’d seen in days.

We walked further along the steep hill, following the fence until it became a piece of string, so a guide rather than a barrier. Falling of the edge would be an abrupt end to the holiday and probably the end of life too. So we were careful and decided to go upwards towards the top and above the cloud. Here the sun cooked us until we were well enough done for the insects to make a hearty meal of us. Even in this sun, some solid chunks of dirt covered snow had survived and we both traversed it without slipping over - get in!

According to Glyn, there wasn’t the time to get right to the top and we’d miss the boat if we tried. I wasn’t convinced but wasn’t prepared to risk it, so we returned to the cloud and cable car. The walk back included two cats enjoying the sun, so my day couldn’t be topped.

Walking back over the bridge, we were passed by cyclists on the pedestrian area at breakneck speed. They had no intention of slowing for mere people and I’d be amazed if there aren’t lots of collisions. This was also my first sniff of exhaust fumes since we’d left the UK, so homely.

We only had an hour or so left, so after wandering around the harbour, lined with bars, restaurants and outdoor seating, we went to Blå Rock, Tromsø’s only Rock bar I believe. The blue building only had one open door, where a man sat in the doorway on his laptop. We had to squeeze past him as he was completely unconcerned that he was blocking the entrance. The bored barman wasn’t bothered by the blockage either and eventually sauntered over with as much enthusiasm as Glyn has when made to wear a sun hat.

The menu was interesting if you are into punk or rock music, various burgers and meals were named after bands such as the Dead Kennedys and The Ramones, but you would have to be a huge rock star to afford those prices. I bought what looked like less than a pint of lager and a coke, it cost about £15. I knew it would be expensive but *&£@#?!!! We only had one round.

The walls were plastered in posters of bands we like including Hole, Bauhaus, The Clash, Butthole Surfers plus many more, so we hoped they would play music we liked. They did not. Not at all. Maybe it’s better at night, it looks like they have gigs there plus a dj and dance floor.

Boarding the boat, we soon realised we were hungry - we’d not had lunch as it seems ridiculous paying for food when there’s unlimited good quality stuff on board. After filling my boots, my body crashed. It had only been around 23 km walked, but up hills, in baking sunshine and lots of fresh air. I was bushed and went to sleep for about 12 hours!

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