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Published: November 18th 2011
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Morning broke gently over Venice, the mist rolling in over the lagoon whilst we ate breakfast , bacon and eggs, full English, continental hams and cheeses, fruit and coffee. What a view - you couldnt imagine one better. As the sun rose over the horizon it began to burn off the haze and with it the tourists arrived on boats, trains and in cars. Our first port of call for the day was to the Academia. We had bought tickets on the internet before we left home and started out early for an 8.15 opening time. Wandering down the streets we stumbled upon Harrys Bar which turned out to be a small insignificant doorway into an equally unimpressive space. Green is a colour you dont see much of in Venice nor do you see trees but on the way to the Academia gardens spilled over into the streets, grass, bamboos and lilac trees. Over the ricketty wooden bridge we approached the Gallery. Rooms were devoted to Byzantine paintings, altarpieces, masterpieces by Tinteretto, Titian and Veronese. The highlight is the large painting of Christ in the house of Levi painted in 1573. The painting was an highly unusual scene showing buffoons, drunkards
and German dwarves sitting around the table of Christ. The rest of the morning was spent wandering around the Eastern Dorsoduro - one bank facing the Grand Canal and the other away from it. Here stand many of the minor palazzos highly decorated for quite modest dwellings. Cafes spill out on to the streets with Venetians enjoying expressos and cornettos and families heading for mass. Religion still playing such a part in Italian life. Flaking paintwork and chipping plaster show where the water has lapped around the buildings over the centuries creating a wonderful lived in feel to the area. After lunch we set off for the Ghetto - this is the name that has since been bequeathed to all enclaves of depravity in the world. The word Ghetto is derived from the Venitian dialect and the Jews were despised and loved in equal measure. Loved for their mercantile and financial astuteness they were a necessary part of the city. They were however forced to live together huddled in a cramped space and they had to build high and densely. The gates were locked at night. They did manage though to build around a campo and build synagogues. In one
corner of the campo is one of the most spine chilling memorials depicting the 200 Venetian Jews who were deported to the gas chambers by the Nazis. The most poignant was the single plaque showing a steam train with cattle wagons crammed with Jews. Hundreds more Jews were being lined up by soldiers with guns. You knew they were going to die and the whole scene chilled you. Our last trip off the day was to the Arsenal. The word Arsenal is a corruption of the word d'arsina , an Arabic word meaning the house of industry. The very word and the architecture of the Arsenal itself show the strength of the links of Venice with the Eastern Mediterranean and its maritime links. At its height in the middle of the 16th century wet and dry docks, rope and sail factories, its ordance depots and its gunpowder mills employed 16,000 men. Men who were revered in the city for their skills. There is unfortunately no access to the complex and the only glimpses can be seen through gaps in the walls. The gateway is typically Renaissance built in 1460 guarded by four pillaged lions looted from Delos and Piraeas. The
end of another lovely day - memories yes there are many - and more to come.
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