Traditional Textile Weaving


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March 19th 2021
Published: March 20th 2021
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http://www.heygo.com 18th March - Traditional Umbrian hand weaving techniques.



A Franciscan Church - What a fascinating location for our tour of a working museum of traditional Umbrian textiles.



Dating back to 1212, it is the oldest Franciscan Church in Perugia and one of the first Franciscan settlements in Italy. The name Saint Francis of the Women derives from the fact that in 1252 the convent was handed over to the Benedictine nuns by the Franciscan monks. The monastery was abandoned many times throughout the centuries as a result of it being in such close proximity to the city walls.

It was for the same reason that the monastery was closed in 1810 and it was transformed into an educational institute for poor young girls.



Another use that followed early in the 19th century was as a spinning mill owned by Count Zeffirino Faina and which produced high quality raw silk that was often awarded in national and international exhibitions. The mill was also very important in that it provided employment for up to 300 young women in the city of Perugia.

In 1925 the ceramic factory “La Salamandra” was established
and as well as becoming noted for its avant-garde styles, it was also responsible for the restoration of the original bell tower and its roof.

The huge role played by women in the long and difficult history of the convent is evident, and like the name Saint Francis of the Women, it is not just random. The Giuditta Brozzetti workshop following in the footsteps of the Benedictine nuns who settled in the convent centuries ago.



In 1921, Giuditta Brozzetti opened the Textile Workshop of Hand Weaving where she reproduced traditional Umbrian textiles and some of the most beautiful damasks of the past. In 2004, Marta Cucchia, Giuditta’s great-granddaughter, turned the workshop into a museum where we discovered the history of these beautiful fabrics and the secrets of their creation. Remarkably, the workshop uses both the four-heddle traditional manual foot-looms to produce the rustic textiles so typical of these rural areas, as well as jacquard looms to weave both damasks and Perugia tablecloths.



Fabric processing in Umbria is a widespread activity, with typical products and very varied production techniques. It is possible to trace the beginning of these activities back to the twelfth century:
especially the most successful achievements, such as Perugia tablecloths, have become famous throughout Europe over time, for the peculiarity of their manufacturing techniques and decorative motifs.



Marta is the fourth generation of a "weaving" family. Earlier generations managed various weaving enterprises. Although she is the first one in the family tradition to weave, she could draw on her mother's and grandmother's memories as she reconstructed various traditional handlooms.

The various patterns for the shaft looms and the cards for the Jacquard looms have been in the family for generations and are based on patterns known to be hundreds of years old.



A wonderful visit, really interesting.


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