Catholic in Recovery

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Having endured 13 years of parochial school I can remember how just saying the word 'Vatican' and 'the Pope' were sacred. Although I am no longer a practicing Catholic (the Pope I parted ways many years ago) being here is still holy ground for me. My B & B in on Viale Vaticano, a road that surround the Vatican. I can look out my window and see the Vatican gardens and the huge 20 foot high wall that surrounds them. It is a slightly eerie feeling.

So my first stop was the Vatican Museum, which is just a short walk from my bedroom. I am going to try not to let my biases show but I have a hard time with all the 'collections for the poor' - it is called Peter's Pence-that every parish (at least in the USA) has to take up every year and the fact that the Vatican has one of the world's greatest art collections. I did not see it all as it would take weeks. It covers 8 12 miles!! The list of artist's is dazzling: Giotto, da Vinci, Caravaggio, Fra Angelico, Bellini, Titian, Raphael, and of course, Michelangelo, to name just a few. Then there are the tapestries, the sculptures, the altars, and the wonder of wonders, the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. I cannot begin to describe it but suffice it to say if you only saw one thing on a trip to Italy it should be the Sistine Chapel.

As you know coming in January/ February was to avoid summer heat and the huge crowds that swarm over Rome. So I have had to endure cold days, high winds, rain and more ran but it was all worth it to have the Sistine Chapel almost to myself. In fact, I did have the smaller section at the far end where the doors are closed (they are only opened when a new Pope is being elected) to myself for several minutes at a time. I sat on the plastic covered marble benches, that seem to be angled to help you gaze at the ceiling, for a very long time, well over a 1/2 an hour, and no one came along. It was pure bliss.

I still had to see St. Peter's and on this January day it was no lines, no waiting. After going through the metal detectors it was clear sailing. I was surprised to learn that it is not the biggest church in the world. That title is held by St. John the Divine in NYC- but it is still pretty darn big. How big you may ask? It is longer than two football fields (about 600 feet) and about 144 feet high. I liked this description of it being built that was in one guide book: Started in 1506 on a Greek cross floor plan;continued by Raphael who change it to a Latin cross plan; then by Peruzzi (back to Greek cross); then Sangallo (Latin cross); Michelangelo (Greek cross plan); then della Porta. who completed Michelangelo's design. But hold on, then in 1605 they tore down the facade and Maderno lengthened it to, are you ready for this? a Latin cross plan.

Of course, the most stunning vista is right inside the Basilica that being Michelangelo's 'Pieta'. Unfortunately, it is being a huge piece of plexiglass which mars the rich quality of the marble. It was attacked by a madman wielding a hammer in the 1970's so now we all must live with it behind the protective plastic. The other most impressive 'sculpture' was Bernini's twisting marble columned canopy for the papal altar. The four columns are each 95 feet high. It is said that the altar is placed over St. Peter's tomb.

There was a Mass going on on one of the side altars and I took a seat in the back of the chapel. Interesting that the priest never faced the people as altars in most Catholic churches do now. I am not a follower of this particular Pope, for among one reason, he seems to want to go back to the 'old ways' and Latin Masses. Apparently he is starting his movement in his 'homoe' church.

Glad I came.

Carolyn

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Comments

[Bo]

Recovered Catholic
As you know, we both share the Catholic childhood education (immersion?), and if I remember correctly we both turned our backs when "Humanae Vitae" was announced. Still, I hope I get to see the Vatican someday. Why is that? The beauty, I guess. Your report of the backwards altar was discouraging -- and I had never looked at Peter's Pence that way! Can you imagine what museums around the world would pay for some of that art??? As long as the art would never go into a private collection, it should be out there for all to see. Proving one again how muh better off the world would be if women ran it . . . !

[Pat Walsh]

Wonderful!
Your descriptions are so rich reading them is almost like being there Carolyn! Thanks for sharing. I'm glad you had so much time to yourself in the Sistine Chapel...good planning! Pat

[Anne Andrews]

Hi Carolyn!
How wonderful! Glad your trip is going well. All is well on Harbert!

[sue samoriski]

Love your Blogs
Have followed your every move to every city from taxi and bus to long lines and trains. I did about the same trip alone in 1966 and stayed in similar places (on Via Cavour in Rome, etc.) so loved every excruciating and exhiliarating descriptive moment. Pompeii was a favorite. The little town especially. I am so glad you undertook this journey and the season was just right for fewer tourists and good prices. Where are you vicariously taking us next? I think now you've been to every place on the planet!