Carolyn's Horrible, Terrible, Very Bad Day


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Europe » Italy » Campania » Sorrento
January 29th 2013
Published: February 2nd 2013
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With apolgies to the writer of the book about Alexander's terrible day but that was all I could think about as I went through my yucky day. First, it wasn't tragic in the sense that I didn't fall into the Bay of Naples nor did a bus I was riding in go off a cliff on the Amalfi Coast. Let me just start by saying that Sorrento is probably not a place to visit in the middle of the winter. It is a 'beach' town without a beach. Half of the hotels are closed as are most of the shops and restaurants.

It rained two of the days I was there so I never got to Capri. I had chosen a B &B that had a lovey view of the Bay of Naples. Ahhh....that worked out okay except (as I found out the hard way) it was about a 2 1/2 mile walk to the center. The owners told me about a little orange bus that I could get right around the corner from the B & B. Ok. So on the one sunny day I had I decided to take said orange bus into the center in order to get my train ticket back from Naples to Rome and to arrange for a taxi to pick me up the following morning to take me to the train station. Then, I had planned, I would take the death defy bus ride along the cliffs of the Amalfi Coast, eat a nice lunch in Positano, and return to Sorrento. So much for the best laid plans......

I went to the bus stop that my hostess had pointed out to me and waited and waited and waited. It was sunny but cold and windy by the ocean. I waited some more. After 45 minutes I decided it was stupid to just stand there and freeze so I walked to the next stop. I waited some more. Ok. I started walking and you guessed it the one orange bus that I saw in all three days I was there zipped by me. I almost cried. I wished I was on a tour and being taken care of like a kindergartener. I had a little 'pity party' until in the center of town and I ran smack dab into a huge tour group of either Japanese or Chinese tourists. They were taking pictures and videos of of anything thay moved or didn't move. I know I will be in many of them as an old, Italian lady dressed in black and carrying a shopping bag. I was glad to be alone.

First order of business was to find a travel agency. I walked and walked some more. None on the main street, none on the 'touristy' street. I headed off to some side streets but everything was closed. I knew I had to find something before 12:30 or so because most places in Southern Italy still close for a couple of hours around mid -day for their 'rest time'. Finally, on the outskirts of town there was an agency. There were 3 young ladies present, none of whom seem very interested in working. I finally asked if one of them could help me. I felt like I was back in Eastern Europe (before the wall came down) when you could wait forever before anyone would even notice you. I booked a ticket, paid the exorbitant agency fee, and headed for lunch. There are certain hours when restaurants are open (at least those that weren't closed for the season). I had found a lovely place (www.parrucchiano.it) and had eaten there several times. It was like being in an ancient garden/ greenhouse with lovely trees, plants, and stuccoed walls with niches filled with statues. The day before I had been there when a wedding was being held in one of the garden rooms. The bride was in a skin tight white knit dress and she was very pregnant. I mean 'it could happen any minute pregnant'. Most of the older guests were trying not to look at her. The younger guests were doing a lot of toasting. Quite a scene to take in. But today in the restautant it was quiet. It was the best part of my day.

I decided I needed to get some money out of an ATM to be ready for Rome. I carry 3 debit cards with me but only had one on me at the time. It is the one I like to use best because I never get charged a fee of any kind. It is from my very small bank in Greenfield, MA. I had used it 3 times already with no problem. So I went to the first bank I saw and tried it. It said my password was not correct. Say what??? I tried another bank. Same thing. 3rd. bank- same thing. Ok, I took some deep breaths and thought I'd just exchange some US cash for some euros. I went into a Deutche Bank and they wanted to see my passport. I showed them a copy and they wouldn't accept it. I asked why and was told that cash was very dangerous.

I decided to try and take a city bus back to my hotel instead of the imaginary little orange bus. I showed the driver my map and he and a guy he was talking to told me to sit down and they would tell me when to get off. They did but it didn't look at all familiar. They pointed down a street and said "go, go." So I started walking, hoping that at somepoint something would begin to look like the neighborhood around my place. At last, twenty minutes later, there was the big yellow church on the corner of my street. I was home!

Just as one day can be a disaster the next can be wonderful. The taxi driver, Francesco, whom I had asked to pick me up was there 15 minutes early- it is always leap of faith when asking a taxi to meet you somewhere. The train from Sorrento to Naples was only visited by 5 or 6 gypsies-one being a young, maybe 9 or 10 years old, blond haired, blue eyed boy playing a toy accordion. His sister about 13 years old, held the plastc cup. Men all along the way helped me with my suitcases- without being asked. The Naples train station was clean, bright, warm and full of places to eat. I tried my Greenfield Savings Bank debit card at the Banco di Napoli and it worked! Yeah, and thank you again to Karen for helping to straighten the mess. A talkative taxi driver in Rome took me right to my new place (www.vialevaticano.com). It is a little tricky to find but he told me he used to live right up the street. And, there it was and there was Giovanna waiting for me with a big smile. I am here for a week in a huge room and a window that looks right at the Vatican garden (well, the wall around the garden).

So bad days become good days. It's all part of travel. The hardest part for me, traveling alone, has been the transfers between places. I think anyone planning to do something like this needs to be aware of how difficult it is just to get from one place to the next especially if you have any luggage at all. Schlepping, even a 20 pound bag, can be a tribulation.

I have been without a means to send a blog for almost a week. I have resorted to the old standby 'internet cafe'. If I can't get to one before I return home next Wednesday then I will write blogs about Rome when I get home.

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2nd February 2013

Good for You!
Your honesty in writing about a bad day is so refreshing Carolyn. I'm sorry you had one, but applaud you for including it. When I have travelled I've often had exactly the kind of bad day(s) you described, and more of them than good ones. Your blog reminded me that's probably one of the reasons I don't care much to travel anymore. Thanks for a wonderful reminder; I hope the rest of your trip is smooth, interesting, peaceful and happy. Love, Pat
2nd February 2013

oh., my!
My Dear Carolyn, you are my hero, my muse, but most and best, my good friend! I am so glad you've let your reading public know how to persevere, and that one day's challenge can lead to the next day's wonder. I remain in awe of your perspective, and when I make it to China or somewhere else next year, your experiences and honest appraisal will be in my heart. Carry on! I had started to worry, as a while had passed between blogs, but...all's well that ends well! With love, Jill.
3rd February 2013

You are so brave and courageous. I think I would have sat on the curb and cried saying, "I want my mommy!" May the rest of the trip be wonderful.
3rd February 2013

Be happy and carry on
Not all travel days are fun. We had a taxi driver we made arrangements with in Cuba who did not show up. After waiting 20 minutes we took the next cab and the driver became our friends and drove us where we needed to go for three days. He even attended a baseball game with us.
3rd February 2013

Your bad day
What a time trying to get around Sorrento. I loved the bus ride from Naples to Sorrento up and down those winding hills along the water. I heard while in London last year that some of the banks were not accepting US credit cards. They have begun using machines that are designed to accept only chip-and-PIN cards and simply don't accept US credit cards. Sounds like you ran into some of those banks. Enjoy Rome and your location sounds excellent.

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