On to the land of cheese and meat

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Day 13, Sunday, May 25



The weather on Sunday was warm and sunny so it was a chance to sit out on our patio and enjoy the sun. Lisa was on high alert looking for Frank the snake but he was nowhere to be found. There were however a number of small lizards all around us, and ants of various different sizes. Flying insects are of various sizes included some large bumble bees that sound like 747s and Jim swore he saw numbers and letters on the side of one.



With no real plans for the day Gianna suggested we visit a small Enoteca (wine bar) in the village of Monticiano to taste some local wines, about a 10-minute drive from our house. So with four good tires we jumped in the car and drove to Monticiano and found the Enoteca. Jim asked the wearing an apron if he spoke English and he responded by saying, “I’m Italian, you English?” His name is Mircko and he speaks at least three languages and he asked if we would like to taste some local wines. After sitting at an outside table next to the piazza he brought out two glasses of wine for us to taste and explained where they were made and by whom. He soon came out with a plate with slices of bread covered in local olive oil. Half with marinated anchovies and other half with just olive oil. Since Lisa is not a fish eater Jim enjoyed the anchovies so much he asked Mircko for the recipe. Then came two more wines to taste along with a plate of prosciutto and salami and a basket of bread. Then another two wines to taste served with two types of local cheese one covered with balsamic syrup that was very tasty. Then two more tastes and we were done. Three of the wines we really liked so a bottle of each went home with us back to the farm.



On the way back we stopped at an old Abbey in San Galgano that was abandoned at the end of the 18^th century. It was built starting in 1218 but famine and the plague in mid 1300’s put the Abbey in decline. At the end of the 18^th century lighting struck the Abbey and the roof collapsed so it was abandoned and deconsecrated. Walking through the shell of the Abbey one could get the impression of what it was like back in the late 1200’s. Outside the Abbey, there were Italian families enjoying a picnic with their children running around.



Arriving back on the farm we noticed our neighbors leaving the farm so we waved at them but we got no response in return. Must be because we look so unfriendly. Gianna told us the family is from Germany and drove 24 hours to stay at the farm. It must have been the drive that made them grumpy!



It was warm enough to wear shorts so we sat by the pool and enjoyed the beers Jim purchased in Lucca. The pool area is very nice and the view across the valley is very pretty. We have seen deer, but no wild pigs or foxes. While at the pool the flying creatures are a show all in themselves. There were bees both large and small, wasps, beetles, dragonflies, swallows, and birds of prey. The interesting part is they really didn’t try to land on us but they did buzz our heads a few times.



Jim did some research in the internet on how to use the ricotta cheese we got from Gianna and back in our house he cooked up a warm ricotta dip made the cheese, garlic, olive oil, and fresh rosemary which we ate with toasted baguette slices. A simple but very delicious appetizer and we shared some with Gianna in her office. She was pleasantly surprised. For dinner we had pork chops, mashed potatoes with ricotta cheese (yes more cheese), sautéed vegetables, and a bottle of the wine we purchased in Monticiano. Dessert was cookies we purchased at a bakery. For some reason our clothes still fit even though we have been eating very well, must be the walking that keeps us from gaining too much weight.



Tomorrow we have a private tour of a small artisan cheese factory.



· Lines in the road are merely suggestions. Constant game of chicken. This includes cars, motorcycles, scooters, pedestrians, and even bugs.





Day 14, Monday, May 26



Gianna had scheduled cheese factory tour for 9:30 AM so we set the alarm to make sure we got up on time. Lisa woke up not feeling all that well but she is a trooper and got dressed and ready to go in time. Gianna drove us about 10 minutes from the farm to the very small village of Pallazzetto. The storefront of the small cheese factory is very unassuming. In fact it would be hard to tell what goes on inside. Gianna was our interpreter, as Antonio and his wife speak no English.



They invited us in to the cheese making room which is very small, about 15 feet wide and 25 feet long. Only sheep’s milk is used and they mainly make pecorino and fresh ricotta cheese. They also have the sheep so their hands are full with tending to the animals and making cheese.



We arrived as Antonio was getting ready to fill the cheese molds with fresh cheese curd they made earlier in the morning. Gianna took questions from Jim and translated the answers from Antonio and he asked if Jim makes cheese as a hobby or profession. Once the molds were filled the left over whey is used to make fresh ricotta so we stayed to watch the whole process.



Along the way Antonio had us taste the fresh curds and then his wife brought out the aged pecorino for use to taste. The four we tried were young pecorino, with chives, red peppers, and black pepper. All the cheeses were outstanding and the samples were generous. The next cheese we tried was a fresh cheese seasoned with herbs and it too was amazing. When it came time to take the cheese out of the molds, flip the cheese, and put back into the mold Antonio asked me to help him. Jim had the biggest smile on his face as he put on gloves and proceeded to assist Antonio. Through Gianna he said Jim was a good worker and he would give him some cheese for helping.



It was easy to tell that Antonio and his wife take pride in what they do and want to share their products with others. Their cheese is only sold locally and in one small shop in Siena. Antonio would like to make more cheese but government controls are difficult to work through so he keeps his business small. Visiting this small cheese factory was a highlight for Jim, Lisa was not feeling well but she came along because she knew how much Jim would enjoy it.



The rest of the day we relaxed on the farm to give a chance for Lisa to rest and feel better. We had a nice dinner and when it was dark Jim went outside with his telescope to watch the stars.

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Photos

The White Road to our Farm Stay in Tuscany
In Italy a white road is what we could call a dirt road.

Jim helping Antonio flip the fresh cheese
Jim was in heaven when asked to help flip the cheese.

Comments

[Max]

Catching Up
I just finished reading three of your posts---what a great trip you are having! I am enjoying being an armchair traveler along with you.