Reykjavik

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If your reason for choosing Iceland is low airfare, you're going to have to channel some dark comedy to endure the inescapable high costs of Reykjavik. Hostel bed in an 8-bunk dorm: $80. Fish and chips at a roadside stand: $17. A beer at a regular bar: $12. Deliciously free and limitless spring water only somewhat makes up for this.

Other, non-cost oriented observations:

The Vesturbaejalaug Baths are a wonderful alternative to The Blue Lagoon. There's not much ambience, but they're quite clean and offer hot and cold pools, plus a sauna, steam room, and small gym, all for $10. This is one of the best baths I've ever been to - on par with some in Costa Rica, Japan, and Hungary that I've visited.

The restaurant Svarta Kaffið is ingenious. All they serve is one meat soup and one veggie soup each week. There are two big pots and many breadbowls, plus taps -simple. It's economical for Reykjavik.

Raid the free food area in the Loft Hostel- it has almost as much peanut butter as the tap has free spring water.

The best place to run near downtown is along the water to the Northeast- toward Videy Island.

The music scene is varied and impressive.

The parties go all night, or in June, through all different shades of clouds, since there is no night.

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