10 July

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The day began with a stop at the Vatnajokull National Park western offices and museum for a talk by the director of the park's western region. Vatnajokull is the glaicer in the southeastern part of the country that covers roughly 1/8 of Iceland. As we found later in the day it is also the name of a local beer that uses indigenous thyme for a slight floral taste. In addition to the mid-Atlantic ridge, Iceland is over a hotspot in Earth's crust centered under Vatnajokull. The are 10 volcanoes in the park, 7 of which are under the ice cap so there is a long history of interplay between fire and ice. One unique feature is the hyaloclastic brown rift rock that is formed under glaciers when lava interacts with ice and water. It is rarely found outside of Iceland. For those of you with some knowledge of Eastern Washington geology, the 1996 flood casued by the release of a lake formed under Grimsvotn have given geologists clues as to how the ice dam(s) forming Glacial Lake Missoula could have burst. The unique geology of Iceland is one of the reasons that I made this trip. There are several good books on the subject, one written by a geologist who was a recent presidential candidate. Discussions thoroughout the trip with Wayne, my roommate, and Mike, who have studied volcanoes for years, gave our group valuable additional information.

The new national park ideology incorporates conservation with economic development of the local people. Local municipalities are involved in park management. This is something that has had varied success in some of the western regions of hte U.S.

After leaving the park offices we drove along the southern outskirts of Vatnajokull to the Skaftafell area where we spent the rest of the day. On the way we drove across the flood plain of the 1996 Grimsvotn lake event. A late morning hike up to Svartnafoss and beyond provided expansive views of the flood plain along with barriers that have been built to help contain the river in future events.

In the late afternoon we met up with a glacier guide and, after outfitting with crampons and ice axes, headed out onto Svinafellsjokull, an outlet glacier of Vatnajokull. Here, among other things, we observed glacier mice, troll babies, and learned about how trolls cause earthquakes. We then spent the night at a hotel within view of the glacier we just hiked.

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Photos

Bridge ruin
Result of 1996 glacial lake flood

Sliding down bridge beam
Ruined in 1996 Grimsvotn flood

Hvannadalshnjukur
Highest peak in Iceland

Basalt columns
Although dense, basalt is soft. It erodes in the shape of its crystals

Glacier mice
Moss grows on a stone, stone rolled by wind, moss grows on all sides. Early settlers saw these being blown across the glaciers and thought at first they were mice.

Flood plain with Troll Babies
Troll Babies are the small lumps to the right. Dirt and sand mounds protect the ice under them slowing the melting.