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Published: February 4th 2011
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I spent just over 24 hours in Berlin… not nearly enough time to experience the city to its fullest, but more than enough time in the middle of February. My impression was a hodgepodge of bad architecture with a few leftover gems. While most German cities got to decide how they would rebuild after WWII, Berlin did not. Post-war Berlin is a mishmash of buildings designed for function rather than form. I expected to see this in the former East Berlin, which was run by the Communists, but I was surprised to find it throughout the city. The shame of it all is that if Berlin looked as it did before WWII, it would rival other European cities aesthetically.
Berlin might take a cue from Munich, which has buried the notorious moments in its past and is known for Beer Halls, Beer Festivals, and all types of beer-related fun (see my Munich entry). Not to say that the past should be completely buried. Obviously, WWII should never be forgotten, but if Berliners want their city to be more than a living WWII museum, they need to offer more. One way to do this is to make
the city more attractive.
I got around mostly by subway (the S-Bahn or the U-Bahn). Like most major European cities, the subway system is very user friendly. Single-ride or multi-ride day passes are available. It’s almost a necessity in colder months, and because Berlin is so sprawling, it makes sense in warmer months too. Also because of this, it’s best to figure out what sights are in proximity to each other so you won’t have to backtrack.
The Brandenburg Gate is a must. If there is a defining piece of architecture in Berlin, this is it. The Gate is one of the most recognizable sites in all of Europe, and is quite dramatic in the light of the setting sun or floodlit after dark. At one time, there were 14 of these gates surrounding the city, and I can only imagine what a sight that must have been. It is so quintessentially Berlin, that Napoleon stole the statue of the Goddess of Victory from the top and brought it to Paris; Berlin eventually got it back in 1814. When the communists occupied East Berlin they turned the statue to face east towards Moscow.
The
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche (Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church) is a beautiful reminder of this city’s sad history. You can still enter what is left of the building, and see some of the beautiful mosaics on the walls and the repairs made to the cracks that run through them. The outside is really what is most impressive. The broken spire still reaching skyward is undeniable. It commands your attention, and may be the best reminder of the lost beauty of Berlin.
If you are into shopping, from the Kaiser Wilhelm Church, you can walk down Kurfürstendamm Street (or Ku'damm for short), which begins in this area. It’s the Madison Ave. of Berlin. Shopping is shopping and Prada in Berlin is pretty much the same as Prada in Rome, Paris, or New York, so I don’t really have to (or want to) say any more about it.
If you are going to Berlin, then you’re probably going specifically to see some of the WWII, Nazi, and Cold War history. You’ll want to see the Topography of Terrors and Checkpoint Charlie. Make sure you get the obligatory photo of your friend running across the border at Checkpoint Charlie (like the guy shown in the photo).
Inside the museum are some intriguing displays such as cars used to transport people from East Berlin to West Berlin. There are also documents and photos that explain other ingenious ways people got across, like being stuffed into suitcases. However, €12.50 per person is pretty steep for the amount there is to see, and I would skip it. The Topography of Terrors is undergoing renovation, so all I got to see were some outdoor displays. I think the new display is set to open Spring of 2010. If you do find yourself in this section of Berlin, definitely check out the Ministry of Finance building. This was Goering’s Air Ministry and is the last Nazi building in existence. It’s a remnant designed, built, and left behind by some of the most horrific men the world has ever known… does it provide any insight into these men? Probably not, it is just a building after all, but I still found myself fascinated by it. So much so, that I stood there in the cold for some time trying to take it in and discover the reason for my interest. The Neo-Classical architecture is typically fascist (grey and imposing) and interesting from
that standpoint. It is meant to make you feel small and insignificant, and maybe that was part of what captured my attention. On an adjacent street between the Ministry building and the Topography of Terrors is a sizeable piece of the Wall with graffiti and holes smashed in it from 1989. It is a modern version of a Greek or Roman ruin.
Unter den Linden, which translated means “Under the Linden” in reference to the Linden trees that line the street. Beginning on the East side of the Brandenburg Gate and stretching East towards Museum Island, many of the beautiful old buildings of Berlin can be seen along this grand avenue. As you move from West to East, lining the street are: The Aldon Hotel, the Russian Embassy, Statue of Frederick the Great, Humbolt University, The Berlin State Opera House, The National War Memorial in the Neue Wache building, Deutsches History Museum, and finally the Berliner Dom (Cathedral) on Museum Island. Definitely take some time to stroll this avenue and take it all in. This is the closest you will get to a feeling of what Berlin looked like before WWII, and how beautiful it was. Unter den Linden
is probably much more impressive during the spring and summer months when the trees are in bloom and the streets are crammed with tourists… okay, probably just better with the trees in bloom.
Some important things that I did not get to see mostly because of a lack of time are:
The Eastside Gallery. It the longest remaining part of the Wall, and many world-renowned artists were commissioned to do murals after the reunification in 1989. This is certainly worth seeing, however, the stretch of wall covered with impromptu graffiti is more interesting. Done before and after reunification, it was created by those who experienced the division and is thus more heartfelt.
The Pergamon Museum which houses the Ishtar Gate from Babylon is a must see, that I unfortunately did not see; it will have to wait for my next trip. I do have a problem with Babylon’s great history being displayed in a European city, but that is also part of its history, I guess. Apparently it was excavated and removed under the proper legal provisions of the time. Regardless of where it is, it is an important piece of history.
The Tacheles is an artist commune, and
a great way to see Berlin’s contemporary art scene. As an art teacher and practicing artist, it’s interesting for me to get a feel for what Berlin artists are creating now. Having a chance to experience something local like this is the best part of traveling. It’s not always easy to find, but when you do, it’s an absolute gem!
As far as food, I did not eat anything here that is quintessentially German. Berlin is a global city with a variety of international cuisines represented, and since (according to my German friend) many Germans don’t even like German food, it wasn’t easy to come by. I figured I’d save the German fare for Munich.
All in all, Berlin is a city still discovering itself. After all, the modern incarnation is only 20 years old. I would not go to Germany specifically for Berlin, however, if you are in Germany, Berlin is an important stop.
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