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Published: September 2nd 2008
Garmish-Partenkirchen
We experience yet another jewel as we spend some time in the Bavarian Alps. A special Thanks to Dan and Marianne for giving us some valuable travel advice for this leg of our trip. Upon your recommendation and assistance, we stay at the Forsthaus Hotel in Oberau in lieu of going into the Garmish area.
The Forsthaus Hotel is located directly across the street from the train station in Oberau and proves to be a remarkable place to stay. The place is run by Bruce and Lisa. These are two remarkable hosts. Each morning, they come down and visit with the guest and make great conversation and offer advice about the local area. We really enjoyed our stay in the Forsthaus and would recommend this friendly little place to anyone.
Our original game plan was to stay in the area for 4 days and cram everything into these four short days. We quickly realized that this was not ample time to experience everything this area had to offer. We extended for another four days, and then extended for another four days. For those of you keeping track, this puts us in this area for a total of twelve
days. Our stay on this leg of the trip is from 9 August to 21 August.
As you can tell, we are not on any type of rigid schedule. If we would have pre-planned every aspect of this trip, we would have far underestimated the time we would have to enjoy this remarkable location. As it turns out, this turns out to be the location we have stayed the longest since the beginning of this journey.
Oberau is a small little village located just 8km from the bustling twin cities of Garmish-Partenkirchen. Garmish was the host of the 1936 winter Olympics. It is also the gateway to the Zugspitz, the tallest mountain in Germany. I might also add that Garmish is also home to the Armed Forces Recreation Center—Edelweiss. On our first day, Lynne and I took the short train ride into Garmish to visit the Tourist Information Center (TIC). We gathered the information we needed about the local area then headed off down the road to Edelweiss to see if we could take advantage of any discounts.
We were both very disappointed with Edelweiss and are delighted that even if they did have space, we did not
stay here. I’m sure this resort may work for some folks, but it certainly does not fit into our modified travel style. I would have thought that we could have gotten discount prices for local attractions, but was seriously mistaken.
Ok, on with the journey. After looking at multiple options for the local area, we quickly decide that four days would not be sufficient. We check with Heidi at the Forsthaus and she confirms that they can accommodate us for 4 additional nights. We then opt to purchase the 6-day Gold Zugspitz Pass which provides superior benefits for the 6 day period. Included in this pass are one round trip via cog train and cable car to the top of Zugspitz, unlimited use of local transportation, free admission into local attractions and free admission into local pools (bads).
Our first journey would take us to the top of the Zugspitz. Although the day prior was rainy and just plain blah, this day turned out to be crystal clear and sunny. We lucked out. We board the cog train to take us up the mountain. We get off at Eibsee station and decide to take the cable car for the
rest of the trip. We board the cable car. They pack 48 people into each car for the journey up the mountain. The view is breathtaking as we climb the mountain. The higher we go, the steeper it gets. As we approach each of the towers supporting the cable, the car lurches and everyone onboard gets a brief thrill ride. I get a chuckle out of the look on Lynne’s face as we hit the first one. I could tell she was a wee bit nervous about this trip. The height combined with the periodic lurching had an impression upon her.
We were really blessed with a crystal clear day. Once arriving at the top, we could see across the Alps in all directions. We had a snack of Bratwurst and pretzels and hung around enjoying the view for quite some time. Across from the main viewing platform is a monument where you can climb to the actual summit. I quickly jumped at this opportunity and you can see a photo of me at the summit.
After spending some time at the summit, we rode one of the cable cars back to the first level to catch the
train. Up the hill was a small chapel and we decided to take the short hike to check it out. After reaching the chapel, we ventured future to the edge of a glacier. I couldn’t help to think of my friends in Kuwait. Here we are standing in the middle of an ice field and I knew they were baking in the 130+F heat of the desert. This was another reassurance to me that we were wise to leave when we did.
As we walked around this mountain paradise, I couldn’t help but to sense that something was missing. For a moment, I just couldn’t put my finger on it. Then it hit me—there were no rock cairns in sight. The entire area was void of any rock cairns. I decided right then and there that I must take a few moments to correct this deficiency. As you can see from the photo, I am enjoying my rock stacking pastime and build a rather proud structure for others to enjoy. While I am erecting this structure, I am totally focused. Lynne stands back admiring my handy work and takes a few photos. When I finish, I realize that I
had drawn quite the crowd who were admiring the stack of rocks growing out of the ground. Perhaps one of them will take the time to build one themselves and begin a cairn collection on this particular mountain.
Since I was a young kid, I always found it interesting to build cairns whenever I could. Building a cairn is not just stacking a bunch of rocks into a pile. It takes a tremendous amount of patience. First, you have you select the right rocks to build a decent cairn. Not all rocks are square or flat. You must analyze each rock and determine where it best fits into the overall puzzle. Your first rock becomes your foundation on which the rest of the structure will be built. Choose the wrong foundation and your cairn will collapse in a hurry. As each stone is placed you have to find the right nooks and crannies that will provide a solid footing for each subsequent stone placed in the stack. It takes a lot of fine tuning and sometimes a little stone will provide a shim to stabilize the rest of the formation. As each stone is added, perfect balance and stability
are essential. As you can probably tell, I had a blast building this particular cairn because it sat alone in a vast mountainous area. Various people will build cairns for different reasons. In Japan, people built them as memorials to the deceased. In other countries, cairns are used to mark trails. Still others, such as myself, build cairns as an act of natural art expression. I get great joy in building a cairn that will stand tall for others to enjoy.
Now, back to the adventure. We take the cog train back down the mountain. The cog goes through the mountain tunnel and the air is heavy with a mechanical odor which becomes nauseous. I get a headache, but I’m not sure if it is from the altitude, the air in the tunnel or a combination of the two. We emerge from the tunnel and make it back to town. Once we arrive back in Garmish, we look back up to the mountain and see that she has now been covered in clouds. We are both grateful that she allowed us the view she did during our visit.
After a quick bite to eat in Garmish, we take
Let me see-----
Nope it sure doesn't feel like 130 degrees to me. Wake up John, your not in Kuwait anymore. You were just having a nightmare.the quick train ride back to Oberau and settle in for the evening. The Forsthaus has a Jacuzzi and sauna so we take advantage of the facilities and unwind from an action packed day.
Our next adventure takes us through the Partnachklamm (Partnach Gorge). This is a spectacular gorge is carved through the rugged terrain of these mountains. We begin with a 30 minute walk to get to the entrance to the gorge. Our admission is included in the Zugspitz pass, so we get a free ride. Well, it’s not really a free ride, rather a free walk. Although the hike through the gorge is only just over a half mile, it snakes it’s way along the bottom of the nearly 300 foot sheer walls. The water rushes pat and the sunlight adds unbelievable colors to this already brilliant place. We emerge from the gorge to a widened river which resembles some of the rivers I know from Northern California. If I didn’t know any better, I would swear I was standing in the middle of Gold Country in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. We pause along the river to have a pleasant picnic lunch when I spot another opportunity
to build another cairn. This time I would cross the ice cold, glacier fed river to the small island in the middle. By the time I reach the island, my feet are numb from the icy water. I prepare my area (canvas) by clearing stones in a circle and lay a foundation of fine river gravel. I then begin my quest for the perfect rocks to build my next work of art. I would have to say that this rock cairn construction is becoming obsessive—it is serving as a new form of therapy for me. After completing my little art project, we pack up and move on. We forge up one of the mountain trails and are treated to some pretty scenic views. We stop by one of the chair lifts to ride down the mountain, but find the line is extremely long and only two cars are running. We estimate that it could be a couple of hours to get down this way. Lynne decides to avoid the wait and hike back down the mountain. On the way back down the mountain on the improved path, Lynne eyeballed a primitive path and wanted to take this route. Wow, what
a hike. This trail switch backed all the way own due to the steepness of the trail. Lynne made me real proud as she blazed he trail ahead of me. By the time we reached the bottom of the mountain, we both felt like we had Fuji Toe. Jeff, I’m sure you can relate to the Fuji Toe feeling. This is where your toes are crammed into your shoes from the steep downhill and ends up bruising your toes and toenails. Although our toes were a little tender, we did not have the dreaded Fuji Toe. After a full day we head back to the hotel and soak in the Jacuzzi.
Our next adventure is to the Allspitz Wellenbad (pool/sauna). Our pass allows free entry to the pool itself, but the sauna is an additional charge. Again, this sauna is the typical German sauna where you are completely natural. The complex is very nice and offers a wide variety of soaking, and relaxation opportunities. They even have a large outdoor saline pool for soaking. I end up visiting this sauna 3 times during our stay here. I even participate in some of the “aufgass” sessions. Dan, I’m writing this
from memory so correct me if I spelled it wrong. These sessions start with people piling into the sauna and squeeze in like sardines. The attendant then comes in and begins to add aromatic water to the heating rocks. The air becomes superheated. Once the session begins, you are expected to stay until the session is complete. As the air heats up, the attendant snaps a towel in the air and forces the super heated air right in your face. Kuwait heat cannot even compare to the intensity of this type of heat. I begin to look at the clock. My typical session in a sauna is 15 minutes at a time. I notice that it has only been about 6 minutes since the session began. The attendant adds more water to the rocks and the air now becomes like a solar flareup. He passes around a bucket with ice and I grab two pieces. One goes in my mouth and the other quickly evaporates as I pass it over my forehead. I begin to wonder If I am going to make it a full 15 minutes and become a little concerned. At the 10 minute mark, everyone applauds the
attendant and the session ends with everyone making a quick exit from the sauna room. Thank goodness this only lasted 10 minutes; I would not have made it a full 15 minutes. After a quick exit, everyone rinses off then into the cold bath for a quick cool down. Wow—now this was an experience. Guess what, they do these sessions every hour and I became addicted to this sensory rush.
During our visit we get the opportunity to hike these beautiful mountains on multiple occasions. We take full advantage of being close to nature and ease into the serenity offered by being in the hills.
By extending our stay in the area, we opt to use Oberau as a base camp for several day trips. This proves to be wise because we can get to many outlying destinations by train, bus or a combination of both.
One of our day trips takes us by bus to the Linderhof Castle. This is a small castle built by King Ludwig II and was his favorite of all the castles he had built. The interior of the little gem was extremely ornate and naturally, photography was prohibited. On the bus
ride, we met a very neat young lady named Karen. Karen works at the consulate in Frankfurt. Karen, it was a pleasure spending the brief time chatting with you, please stay in touch. It would be great to cross paths again. Perhaps we will connect after you make the move to London.
Our next day trip would be to Fussen, home of the Neuschawnstein Castle. This castle was King Ludwig II’s pride and joy. Many of you may know that this is the castle Walt Disney used as a vision to construct Cinderella’s Castle. The castle is surrounded in controversy because of the extravagant length Ludwig went into the construction. Just one example is the wood carving in his bedroom. It took 14 master wood carvers four year to complete the elaborate wood detail in this single room of this massive abode. In another room there are over 2 million individual mosaic tiles painstakingly laid into the floor. Ludwig only lived in this castle for a brief time before he was determined mentally ill and removed from rule of Bavaria. A short time later, he and his psychiatrist were found dead in Lake Starnberg outside of Munich. To this
day, there is still a lot of mystery surrounding his death. The Neuschawnstein Castle was never completed. The tour of the castle only covers those areas completed prior to his death. Lynne and I both enjoyed this castle the best. Anna, Lynne pointed out to me that King Ludwig was born on your birth date exactly 100 years prior to yours.
During our stay, we took a couple of down days to just sit back and do nothing at all. This was primarily driven by poor weather, but it was refreshing to have a couple of days to vacation from this journey.
I could have written a book filled with details about this leg of the journey. I have hit some of the highlights and will let you enjoy the photos from this leg.
Our next stop takes us back to Majestic Switzerland. This time our temporary home will be Zermatt, home of the Matterhorn.
Enjoy the photos--I took over 3,000 photos in this area but could only publish a few.
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Katrina
non-member comment
New shirt?
Dad I was beginning to wonder just if your whole wardrobe was khaki colors and then you go and spice it up with orange! Love the new shirt! Take care ...miss you bunches