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Published: June 20th 2011
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Le Vieux Port
Now just a big marina. Le Garde Notre Dame is on the hill in the background. Marseilles - our first landfall on this trip to France. The country's second city and capital of Provence, arguably the most beautiful region in France, Marseilles is very much a busy cosmopolitan centre which Lonely Planet suggests visitors either love or hate. We certainly enjoyed discovering Marseilles and its environs during our four day stopover.
People have lived here since the 6th century BC which makes it the oldest continuously inhabited area in France. In spite of this there is surprisingly very little to see from the early days. This is due in no small part to WW II - in 1942 the Germans deliberately demolished much of the old city in an attempt to destroy the partisans and in 1944 the city was heavily bombed by the allies.
Our little hotel was in a very convenient location, just a stone's throw away from Le Vieux Port (the Old Port) which is the heart of Marseilles. This little harbour, which has witnessed so much history and is dominated by massive forts on either side of its entrance, is now little more than a marina with over 3,000 yachts and pleasure boats. The big artificial harbour just to the south
View of the city from Le Garde Notre Dame
The forts guard the entrance, the new harbour is behind. services a huge fleet of ferries that seem to run non-stop from all parts of the Med and North Africa.
On our second day the city was hit by the Mistral, the howling wind (up to 100kph) which is a regular summer visitor to Provence, blowing in from the Med. That was the morning we had planned to take the bus up to Notre Dame de la Garde, the church on the high hill overlooking the city, which is reminiscent of Sacre Coeur in Paris. The views from this impressive memorial to the city's sailors was crystal clear for many kilometres, although you had to hold on to avoid being blown away.
Another interesting excursion was the 30 minute ferry ride just off the coast to the grim fortress island of D'If. This treeless, rocky island fortress was originally built in the 15th century to protect the entrance to the city. In subsequent years it was used as a prison and over one period housed several thousand Huguenot protestant prisoners, many of whom died there. It is best know, however, as the fictional setting for the novelist Alexandre Dumas' book 'The Count of Monte Cristo'. The chateau was
Mistral madness!
You have to hang on tight! fascinating to visit and in almost original condition.
We collected our lease car from Renault and drove directly around the coast past Nimes, Montpelier and Beziers, towns where we had spent time in previous visits. Onto Perpignan and then a short drive west to Vernet-les-Bains, where we are just finishing a most enjoyable three weeks stopover.
Vernet is one of the many thermal spa towns located in the foothills of the Pyrenees, the rugged range that forms the border between Spain and France. The town is in a very impressive setting, at the top of a fertile valley full of cherry orchards and surrounded by thick birch and conifer forests. Looking over the town is Mt Canagou, which at 2700 metres is the highest peak in the eastern Pyrenees. The old town is a typical bastide type village on a hill with a maze of narrow winding lanes leading to a small chateau and 11th century church at the top. There is a market three days a week in the small shady square which is lined with shops, cafes and of course boulangerie-patisserie.
The town's golden period was before WWI when it was the favoured destination for
Chateau D'If
As grim and inhospitable as it looks. the British upper classes and aristocracy who wished to take advantage of the curative properties of the thermal spas. There are several Belle Epoque hotels and even a casino from this period. An Anglican church was built at the time and still functions.
Foremost of the British residents was Rudyard Kipling and the annual Kipling Festival was in full swing the weekend we arrived.
Our friends Wendy and Kev arrived from Sydney and spent almost two weeks with us. Our four bedroom exchange home was very comfortable with spectacular views of the mountains, valleys and old town from just about every window.
We've spent our days exploring the surrounding countryside and places of interest, usually with a picnic lunch of bagette, selection of local pates and cheese and, of course, a bottle of local wine. Every road seems to have spectacular views of mountains or valleys, forts or chateaux. One day we made a long hike up from our neighbouring village to the 12th century monastery of St Martin of Canigou, perched on a high rocky ridge. It is a stopover on the pilgrim route of St James de Compostella. It still has a religious community and
For chocolate lovers!
One of the few old shops left in the Panier district that was destroyed in WWII. hosts modern day pilgrims.
We crossed over into Spain on several of these trips, once via the pocket-sized principality of Andorra perched high in the mountains. We spent an afternoon in the Spanish border town of Figueres visiting the Salvador Dali museum, which was certainly entertaining.
During the Spanish Civil War in the late 1930's many Spanish artists and intellectuals escaped the tyranny to live on the French side of the border. Ceret was a small town favoured by many artists including Picasso, Matisse and Miro who donated many of their works to the town gallery. Similarly Prades, the next town to Vernet, was home to the cellist Pablo Casals and it hosts an international music festival in his honour.
We had a memorable day travelling on the Train Jaune (the Yellow Train). This is a quirky little four carriage train that makes several trips each day up into the mountains over a line that spans high valleys and cuts through many tunnels. It was a real engineering feat when completed in 1910 and much of the rolling stock is still in use.
This corner of France and Spain was for many years the Kingdom of
Chateau D'If
Inside the chateau, setting for the 'Count of Monte Cristo'. Catalan and there is still a strong kinship on both sides of the border. The language is quite distinctive as is the food, history and culture.
We have really enjoyed the opportunity to enjoy yet another wonderful part of France.
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