From Central France, we had driven through Provence’s Gorges du Verdon, onto the French Riviera. Driving in central and rural France is a fairly relaxed mission. Drivers obey road rules and show patience and courtesy. Here in the renowned Cote d’Azur, when people get behind a wheel, they become irascible, venal and impolite, if not rude. So after a challenging drive along part of the coast, it was a relief to reach our selected campsite in the hills above Nice, at St Laurent du Var. But there was no room at the inn. We waited. Free camping sites are rare in this part of the world. In fact, camping is just not one of the happening things here where super rich rub shoulders with superstars. There are not even any paid camping grounds. There are no
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