France and a bit more: 3

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France - and a bit more: Episode 3 (Weeks 3 + 4)

This blog describes our 2023 journey to Europe; specifically France (with the possibility of a small foray elsewhere as both Italy and Spain are 'next door'!). As always, we segment the 'blog' into roughly weekly or fortnightly posts (this being the 3rd).



Our travel blog has been written for family and friends to 'travel with us'. We now recognise we write the blog for ourselves; it is how we revisit our past adventures and remind ourselves of the the enjoyment. Thus, there is more detail included than merely a brief discourse for family and friends.



BTW, if you want to see the picture in a larger size, just click on it.




Oh, and if you missed Episode #1, you can find it here, and Episode #2 here.



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June 1 - 5: Day 19 - 23 - Taking it slower.

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Given the RTI Judy picked up, eventually it had to transfer to Bruce, and it did. On Judy's insistence, we went to a pharmacy in Monteux (the town closest to where we are staying) who organised for us to see an English speaking GP. Armed with a script for 1000mg tablets of Amoxycillan and a Decongestant (tablet), Bruce commenced his episode of coughing and tablet taking. The GP also prescribed 1000mg of Paracetamol. Clearly, they don't muck around over here!



We had been zipping around like youngsters seeing this, visiting that, and decided we need to slow down the pace a bit. So, instead of leaving our accommodation around 8 or 9, we delayed it till 'then', went less far, and returned earlier.



We knew from earlier visits to France that each village / town / city suburb has a local fresh food market; marche elimentaire. So, rather than buy everything at the supermarket, we took this opportunity to acquaint ourselves with the markets in the district.



On the Thursday, there was a market at Pernes-Les-Fontaines about 6km west of Monteux. Small but interesting. On the Friday, it was the turn of Carpentras, a large town some 8km north of Monteux.



Being a largish town, we headed for the Tourist office to gain a map of the local heritage icons. The Tourist office is located within the area cordoned off for the markets. Fortunately, Google Maps found it for us. Weaving our way through the market stalls to gawk at the various sites, we were struck by the liveliness of the town centre (being full of people). Clearly, the folk living in the broader district had come to browse / chinwag / shop. We could also see (and hear) that a large portion of the crowd were tourists (like us).



We wanted to see the Synagogue as the literature indicated it was the oldest in western Europe. Though it was supposed to be open between 10-12am, a lady hung a 'closed' sign out just as we arrived. We wondered the reason. Until WW2, Carpentras had a very large and lively Jewish population. We learned that Provence was once a quite large Jewish community as they had gain 'protection' from the Papacy of the Catholic Church.



We continued sight seeing and then headed to one 'fruiterer' stall holder who offered some enticing fruit and vegetables. After stocking up, we headed for the car and 'home'.



On Saturday (June 3), we decided to head to Gordes. Located at the edge of the Luberon (north east of Monteux), it is featured in just about every tourist brochure for Provence. We set the satnav and headed towards the village. After about 20 minutes and ascending on a small local road with the satnav indicating Gordes to be 3km away, we were stunned as the vegetation gave way to reveal a village hanging on the side of a steep hill.



We slowed, found ourselves a park and sauntered back down to the 'boxtop' view. Clearly, it is easy to see why Gordes captures the tourists. Looking down over the plain, the town reflects the fact that for centuries, locals sought refuge in fortified towns built on the side of hills such as this.



Returning to the car, we allowed the satnav to take us into Gordes. That it did, the long way around. The route skirted the hillside to the south-west and in turn allowed us a great view towards Carpentras (and beyond). After a while, the valley below the road began to close in and looking down we could see the Senanque Abbey. Founded in the 12th Century by Cistercian Monks. We arrived in front of the Abbey, set amongst flowering Lavender fields, for the midday Angelus.



We continued onwards and arrived at Gordes. With no parking, and the streets and buildings showing they have had a serious cosmetic 'makeover' to appeal to tourists we didn't feel as though finding a park would be worth the effort. And, as the visual impact of the hillside village itself so rewarding, we continued driving onwards.



Next on the list was nearby Roussillon. Again, another tourist target. Near the village, the satnav took us the wrong way, but it turned out to be the best route. We ascended the hillside on which Roussillon sits from the north (the 'correct' road from the north-west) and we found ourselves on the outskirts, with a parking area (with a space just for us!). The village appears to sit atop a large block of a hill, with the sides cut away. Apparently, in the 18th Century, the pigment from the 'red' rock on which the villages sits was used for dying fabric and vast quantities were mined; leaving great scars leading up to the town.



The town hadn't endured a 20th century cosmetic 'makeover' and so displayed the rustic rural ambience it has always had. We wandered around for a bit, and with the sky darkening, we headed back to our accommodation. About halfway along our journey, we drove into a major storm cell; a sort of 100mm / hour type. While it was wipers at full tilt and a slower driving pace, we were amazed that nearly all the other cars in the locality were parked under some form of tree / hedge. The sky wasn't green enough for hail, so we continued on and within 10km found ourselves back in sunshine!



Sunday (June 4th) is a quiet day in France, with most businesses closed. We decided to wander around nearby Monteux. The town was walled by the Romans, and several of the 'entry' points and a fraction of the wall remains. As in most Roman walls, the 'entry' points are a quasi tower with a (then) gated entry. On this day, the centre of Monteux was closed to traffic; for a small market. We enjoyed our time in the town and decided we also could do with a rest day.



With a fridge full, the thought of another marche was distant. So, Monday saw us revisit Avignon. There were a couple of 'spots' we'd not yet visited, and the most intriguing was Notre Dame des Doms d'Avignon. Located beside the Palace of the Popes, it seemed as though it had played an important role over the centuries. We learned that if it did, such events were not recorded. Nevertheless, as the basilica for Avignon, it clearly was a centre of attention. Beside the basilica, are a lovely set of gardens. And, they have a great view over the Rhône River, especially towards Villeneuve-lès-Avignon.




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June 6: Day 24 - Nîmes.

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Obviously in preparation for our visit we'd read about Nîmes (about an hour south-west of Avignon and in the region of Languedoc), but were totally unprepared for what we encountered. The traffic entry was supposed to be bad (it wasn't) and the Roman era icons dominate the place (they don't).



A short distance from the city centre, the roads were overshadowed by monstrously high Plane trees making a grand arch. As we entered, it felt we were entering a magnificent oasis! The city fathers had paved the entire city centre, meaning it was totally pedestrianised. Again, how practical and innovative. Despite being the city centre, we didn't have much of a problem finding a place to park on the nearby outskirts (remembering where the car was parked when needing to return was the only 'issue').



We headed to the nearby Office of Tourism and as well as being given the obligatory map, we also bought a pass to several highlight icons (reducing the overall price).



Nîmes was a Roman city on the (Roman built) road between Italy and Spain or Hispania back then (the Via Domitia). Originally known by the Romans as Nemausus, it was said to be the town most like Rome outside Rome. At the centre (today) is an Amphitheatre (or Arena / Colosseum) and a Temple.



The Arena is an apt term for the amphitheatre as that is the purpose today. Well preserved, and in part refurbished to maintain physical integrity, the interior has hosted major concerts, bull fights, and local celebrations. While perhaps more visually intact from the exterior (than Rome's Colosseum), it certainly doesn't compare on the inside. That said, it is still an imposing edifice and a credit to the local population for the preservation; especially so given the history of conflict that has consumed the city.



The Temple (or, as referred to in French Maison carrée) is a classical Etruscan temple and is said to be a better preserved example than elsewhere. It is perhaps because of the pedestrianisation of Nîmes and the removal of old buildings (originally) consuming space beside the Temple enabling it to be seen in full perspective that allows it to be portrayed in it's full glory that is the real highlight.



Although the interior embellishments have long gone missing, the 'educational' display inside was - for us - profound. The display was a description of the culture that then existed in the Roman Nîmes. Being a Catholic nation, the French 'authorities' have sought to debase the culture as a 'cult'. However, the description appeared to us as a model for the Christian (bureaucratic) hierarchy (this description has since appeared in other places we've visited).



The term 'cult' is ascribed by French historians to the Emperor Augustus and structure he implemented - Pax Augusta. The description we were reading, described that Augustus didn't want his bureaucracy to be modelled on monarchy, as that was 'on the nose'. Instead he proposed a type of collegiate bureaucracy with hierarchical rankings of officers able to undertake specific tasks (called Principat). The literature before us described that this model was progressively undermined as generational leaders usurped it for greater autocracy. Nevertheless, the model formed the basis of a revision in the third century (the Dominate) which attempted to address the weakness of autocracy. It appeared clear to us from that written in front of us that the structuring of early Christianity was built on the ideal of the Roman emperor's 'collegiate' model; at the top the Emperor (Pope or similar), then a Senate comprising representatives of the regions or Senators (Cardinals), supported by Tribune of Plebs (Archbishops & Bishops), and down the line the hierarchy went. Though changes occurred via the Dominate to Roman bureaucracy, The conversion by Constantine to Christianity and the adoption of the Nicene Creed cemented the Roman collegiate bureaucratic structure into the (western) Christian model.



Continuing on, we headed to Jardins de la Fontaine a 15 hectare site said to be the first major public gardens in Europe. Pretty, they are. The gardens rise up a hill and at the top is a large 'watchtower' building originally erected in the Roman era. We climbed the 138 internal circular stairs that allowed us to see across the city and onto the surrounding plain.



Personally, we loved that the gardens were extensively planted with Linden trees that had just come into flower; the perfume is magnificent and so alluring.



Along the way to the gardens, we passed a (building) tile retailer who had decided to decorate the exterior of his/her shop in a delightfully visual display. Much better than a billboard!



Nîmes also has another claim to fame; denim. During the late 17th Century, textile weavers were making a durable heavy cloth. Competing with Genoa (Italy) with a similar product, the fabric became known as serge de Nîmes. By the mid 18th Century, Nîmes weavers included a blue dyed Weft (or cross) thread. The blue used was not indigo, but woad. And, it was this fabric that was imported by Levi Strauss to America. The shortened term 'denim' clearly has a history.

June 7: Day 25 -

Pont du Gard.


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Pont du Gard is about 3/4 hour south-west of Avignon (so in Languedoc). Rather than write about it, we copied from this website...

"The Pont du Gard was built by the Romans in the first century. It’s not actually a bridge, it is the remains of an aquaduct that, for five centuries, used to transport water from the Eure source in Uzès to Nîmes. The 35,000 m3 of water carried by the aqueduct every day would supply the residents of the town with drinking water, and there was still enough left for the baths, fountains and gardens across the town.

Standing at 50 metres high over three levels, it is the highest antique aqueduct-bridge in the world! It is a real symbol of Roman scientific genius, with a length of 52 metres and only descending in height by 17 metres over the entire length. The builders of that time were highly skilled to have been able to build the bridges and tunnels to Nîmes, across this scrubland. Today, it is the only ancient bridge with three levels that is still standing."



Whoever is managing this historical icon has acquired much of the surrounding land and has blocked access roads. The result is a large car park on either side of the river with very hefty entrance fees. Using Googlemaps and Maps.Me, we were able to park fairly close without charge. The 1 km walk to the aquaduct via a disused road through regenerated forest was delightful.



When we turned a corner and were 'confronted' by this icon, all we could say was WOW! Taking in the enormity, and that it was built without the aid of modern machinery in just 15 years, it presses home the notion that we 'modern mortals' aren't as modern as we'd like to think!



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June 8: Day 26 - Marseilles, and...

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Marseilles is south-east of Monteux and is credited to being the first Gallic city (established by the Greek, Pompey the Great) - then known as Gallia Narbonensis - and nowadays the 2nd largest in France (after Paris). Being about one and a half hours from Monteux (so google asserted) via the motorway, the occasional traffic hold-ups added a bit more time to our trip.



Knowing that we would be challenged to drive to the centre and find a place to park the car, we opted to park at the city outskirts beside a Metro and use public transport. It turned out to be a great move. We assumed Marseilles would have a similar Metro ticket system to Lyon, and we were right; being able to buy an all day pass for each of us via the vending machine.



We set the station on the satnav and upon arriving found the streets dreadfully narrow, hardly any parking, and no spaces visible. Bruce had seen on the web link that the Metro station had parking. Seeing a parking area with a boom-gate entry, Bruce negotiated to the entry lane with an attendant. Using his limited French, he was somehow able to convince the guy to allow us to park. After leaving the park, we noticed it was Pompiers Regionale - the regional Fire Brigade! Judy commented that her father must have been looking down (Fred was a Fireman)!



Like Lyon, the Metro trains were just minutes apart so in no time we were standing at Vieux Port, or the Marseilles harbour taking in the scene of a myriad boats of varying sized at moorings, fishermen at the wharf edge selling their catch, and people 'doing their thing'!



After a short walk to the Tourist Office to get a local (printed) map and advice on 'must see' items, we caught a bus to the top of the nearby hill to visit Notre Dame de la Garde Basilica.



We were amazed at the skill of the bus driver to negotiate narrow streets, tight corners and weave past so many poorly parked cars. At the top we discovered an amazing view across the densely packed Marseilles, the magnificent harbour and eastwards over islands and the suburbs of the affluent.



The Marseilles harbour has long been 'protected' by forts on either side; Fort Saint Nicolas (now just outer walls) and Fort Saint Jean. The bus from the Basilica ended at the Fort, so we took the ride. With the warmth of the sun and the lovely cooling breeze, we relished the opportunity to wander parts of the fort (which has recently been upgraded with better paths, gardens, and a museum) and take pictures from the top.



The (re)development of Fort Saint Jean has included pedestrian bridges from the fort to museums, across a part of the harbour and across a major road (to the hill on the other side). We took the latter as the next item on the 'must see' list was Cathedral of Sainte-Marie-Majeure. We learnt it is the only (Catholic) cathedral completed in Europe over the past 2 centuries and was the outcome of a visionary Bishop who preferred to focus on the poor and undeserving than the rich. Most churches have several chapels, and this Cathedral had many. We were surprised that one prominent chapel was dedicated to the allied forces (especially ANZAC's) who fought in France during the great war.





The Cathedral abutts the 'old town' of Le Panier, and is where the Greeks settled way 'back then'. The area fell into decline during the 20th century but is now enjoying a resurgence of popularity to both tourists and the local avant-garde as artisans find the place accommodating for their endeavours. After the flat parts we'd walked, the hilliness of the area challenged our calves.



In the centre of the area, and built in the 18th Century is a large hospice: the ‘Vieille-Charité’. Originally built to house the poor and destitute, it served as a workhouse for many years. Later, it was used by the military, and today has been restored as an art gallery and museum. We visited as it was cool, and the cafe was inviting. The current artist representation Baya was an Algerian femme devoted to (Algerian inspired) modern art. Hers is a fascinating story.



Continuing on, we descended the narrow streets to arrive at the main thoroughfare and the tramline. From here, we headed via the Haussman oriented tree lined boulevards to the iconic Palais Longchamp that initially appeared as some folly, but was built in the 19th Century to 'celebrate' the arrival of potable water to Marseilles (the water having traveled along an 85km aquaduct from the Durance River) and rid the city of the Cholera epidemic.



Within a few metres, we were back on the Metro to return to our car. We could have stayed longer and viewed more, but felt we'd enjoyed a wonderful taste of this vibrant city.



A friend had suggested if we ever have time to visit, we should go to the village of Saint-Maximin-La Sainte-Baume as the Basilica is reputed to hold the remains of Mary Magdalene. As the village was only a 25 minutes north-east of Marseilles, we followed the hint. The village is well presented, and the Basilica quite old. Inside, and down stairs to the crypt and there in front of us a skull, reputed to be that of Mary Magdalene. Mary Magdalene is Judy's patron saint. Upon entering the Basilica and before entering the crypt, and only knowing a few shreds of the story, Judy felt an overwhelming sense fidelity. After visiting the crypt, Judy was quiet; she later divulged that the visit redeemed part of her devotion (especially in relation to Mary Magdalene).

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June 9 + 10: Day 27 + 28 - Pretty Villages.

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A fortnight or so ago, we'd ventured to the mountains to the north east and on our return passed the village of L'Isle Sur La Sorgue. We then wondered why it was full of people; we hadn't (then) read about it. We returned the next day and found it oriented towards tourism (just like Gorges, etc.). We've learned that the regional tourism authority has produced a list of Plus Beaux Villages de France, or the most beautiful villages of France.



These villages have several themes in common; they have existed for centuries, were originally designed in a way to protect the inhabitants from attack/sacking, are/were often walled, have a church in the centre, are built in stone, and have higgeldy-piggeldy streets (generally narrow). Some (like Gorges) are built on the side of a hill, thus minimising the length for protagonist entry (and enhancing defence), others are on flat ground and just relied on solid defensive walls.



Generally, each village has, to some degree or another, tarted itself up in a bid to attract tourists. The more the makeover, the more tourists. The villages we visited were;





Chateauneuf-du-Pape (25 minutes west of Monteux and on the western side of the Rhône River, putting it in the Languedoc region) appeared to us to nowadays exist just to flog the local wine to tourists. Every second building was offering a wine 'degustation'.



Saint-Laurent-des-Arbres (10 minutes further west) had nothing we could see to offer tourists. As we visited at lunchtime the buildings were closed. The townscape was similar to many other 'pretty villages' we've visited.



There are a heap of 'pretty villages' in the locality of Parc Naturel Regional des Alpilles (45 minutes south of Avignon ). We noticed that to the north and west of the 'mastiff', the land accommodated much intense farming, while to the south of the 'mastif' the ground was given over to olive orchards. We figured the land to the north of the mastiff has been laid down over eons by Rhône River flooding. Clearly, the villages closer to the intense agricultural growing areas were larger in size.



Saint-Remy de Provence is perhaps the largest village in the group we visited and is renowned as a place where Vincent van Gogh spent a year (and produced many paintings). It is also the birthplace of Nostradamus. Though clearly a pretty village, it is also filled with tourists and tourist shops.



Les Baux-de-Provence is smack bang in the centre of the Parc Naturel Regional des Alpilles. The village is nestled on top of a rocky outcrop and prohibits tourist parking. We were lucky to get a park close the the town and made our way there with countless other tourists. With narrow streets giving a closed in feel, we by-passed the opportunity to take a gander at the crumbling ruins they call a castle. Escaping the tourist mass, we found a short cut to our car and continued our journey.



Maussane les Alpilles. There is nothing 'special' about this village that would attract tourists, and so we didn't see many. But, it is a decidedly pretty village. It is an agriculturally focussed village that has historic buildings, but has been brought up to date for those that live there.



Eyguieres is more a working village than one focussing on it's history. That said, it holds an honesty that appealed to us.





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June 11: Day 29 - To the gorges.

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On one of our tourism handouts, we noticed Les Gorges De l'ardeche in the Languedoc region about an hour north-west of Monteux. As the handout came from Provence, there was little accompanying information. But, on the web, it looked great, so off we headed.



The satnav must have been having a sickie as it took us along really narrow roads, up hills and down dales, before finally arriving in the area of the village we'd entered. And, despite seeing pictures on the web, there was a lack of information to enable us to get to visit the sites we'd anticipated seeing. As it turned out, the sites we'd viewed on the web had been privatised, so instead of public signs to a grotto or rock arch or similar, there were commercial signs highlighting the name of the operator! From the village destination of Vallon-Pont-d'Arc, we (eventually) found the road that follows the Ardèche River. And, headed downstream. From time to time we got glimpses of the river set deeply into the landscape. Mostly, the river appeared well used by kayakers. As the road travels through a 'natural environment' (sort of like a State Forest in Oz), it was nice to be in a natural environment without villages and agriculture.



We eventually arrived at the village of St Martin d'Ardèche which appeared to be a major kayak hire base. With access via a cable swing bridge, we crossed the river to the historical village of Aigueze. We attempted to visit the Tourism Office, only to arrive a few minutes after they closed! We wandered around a bit, mingling with the (many) tourists before finding a pathway to the Ardèche River to dip our feet into the fresh cool water.



The satnav must have recovered as the road back to Monteux was straightforward, fast and much easier than the route it had directed us to take earlier!



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June 12: Day 30 - To the sea.

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About an hour south of Avignon is the town of Arles, but for us that was a stop along the way as we headed to the Camargue. The reason for the visit to Arles as to get maps and advice from the tourist office (something not apparent in the Camarge, by information on the web).



On the information about Arles, it appeared to be another town similar to Nîmes. When visiting the tourist office, we decided we'd come back another day and look a bit more.



As a 'Natural Park', the Camargue is a lowland area that boasts an abundance of wildlife. Some years ago, the government placed a bund wall around much of the lowlands to inhibit flooding from the Rhône River and protect against salt water inundation at other times. Much of the land is now a rice growing region, with some dairying as well. Somehow, this is called a 'Natural Park'! Again, some of the featured sites to observe wildlife have been privatised. Patronage must be ordinary as the weekday we visited, they were all closed!



We were fortunate to see the local white (more cream coloured) horses that roam wild, and plenty of birdlife. The Flamingo's weren't very pink as we learned that pink colouration occurs after they have been feeding on a specific diet that occurs in late summer. Nevertheless, we were entranced to see them flying; with very long necks stretched out front and very long legs out the back, the relatively small body bundle with smallish wings made for an odd sight. We commented that it was odd comedians hadn't sought to take the weirdness of the sight as a vehicle for humour. It seemed very Monty Python-esque to us.



At the very south, we visited a beach - with quite brown sand - and were able to dabble our toes in the Mediterranean Sea. With the hot day, it was a refreshing opportunity and lamented that we'd not had swimmers in the car.



We continued on our journey, crossing the Rhône River by car ferry and visiting a few more villages on the Provence side before heading back to Monteux.

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June 13: Day 31 - Rain.

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The evenings tend to begin with the sky becoming dark before a squall rolls through. Last evening was particularly vicious, with marble sized hail carpeting the ground. Fortunately, it wasn't big or fast enough to leave dents in the hire car.



The rain continued during the night and into the day; a great opportunity to rest and get chores done.



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June 14: Day 32 - Arles.

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Today we returned to of Arles (about an hour south of Avignon). For us, Arles is a bit like Nîmes on the Rhône River. Historically, both Arles and Nîmes were Roman cities, built on a similar pattern with similar public facilities. As Nîmes is said to have been built in the image of Rome, so too was Arles. Still existing are the Amphitheatre / Colosseum, the theatre and public baths. But, unlike Nîmes, they are considerably worse for wear. The Amphitheatre is larger and (apparently) still used for bull fights (amongst other forms of entertainment).



Again, unlike Nîmes, the city fathers have left the city centre in a sort of 18th Century condition. Still standing are long sections of the city wall and various entry arches. But, that said, there's something to like about the grittiness of Arles. It is unpretentious, and away from the tourist icons the locals we encountered were really friendly and ready to engage.



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June 15: Day 33 - Montpellier.

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About 2 hours south-west of Monteux is Montpellier, the Languedoc region. All we can say is "WOW, what a different space!"



We took the motorway to arrive at Montpellier, and were pleasantly surprised that the entry from the motorway to the city centre was some 5 minutes of driving (unlike other towns where they are 10 or 15 minutes off the 'main drag'). The entry was not through the 'normal' option of miles of suburbia or industrial, rather, it was through what seemed planned estates of modern buildings, both industrial (to one side) and residential (to the other). And, the buildings were smart and innovative in design. For southern France, this was entirely different and pleasing to the eye.

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We'd entered the location of the Tourist Bureau into the satnav and it took us to the entry of a large pedestrian space. With only underground (pay) carparks visible, we found a bit of bitumen nearby so Bruce could leg it to the tourist office while Judy stayed in the car. Bruce got what was needed and Judy had an 'encounter' with 3 young policemen on bikes; somehow they conveyed to her that the car wasn't meant to be in that space (it being for cyclists) and she conveyed to them it was very temporary. The tourist office directed us to a carpark some 4 kilometres away that, while paid, included a day pass on the tram that stopped just outside the carpark and that took us back into the city centre.



The centre of Montpellier is largely 'city historique' and is mostly pedestrianised. We visited several of the featured sites, some being Roman, others built more recently, and as we wandered found ourselves in the university district.



The University of Montpellier was founded in 1160 and thus is one of the world's oldest. Today, the university district is a vibrant community sporting a host of emerging artspaces, cultural and gastronomic options. We were impressed at how the old and the new were married.



When departing, we commented that the streets of central Montpellier, being pedestrianised, had an additional pleasing attribute. There were so many pleasing aromas. From perfumes wafting from shops, to shops with incense, and people with lovely floral perfumes. Then, there were the aroma's coming from kitchens. Montpellier pleased us in some many different ways.

Reflections...

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Above all else, Provence is a highly productive agricultural region. And, it was because of this that various invaders have sought to take control. From the Celts, to the Greek's at Marseille to the Romans, the Visigoths, the Ostrogoths, the Barbarians, the Franks, Saracens, Catalans, the Papal estate, and eventually in the 15th Century, Provence came under the control of (greater) France. All this to-ing and fro-ing has left it's mark on the way villages and towns have coped within the region. And, while the agricultural sector has continued, it is the regions' history that draws tourists to becoming the second largest income earner.



Being tourists, we also visited the 'history' of the region. As noted above, the 'tourist' villages have several themes in common; they have existed for centuries, were originally designed in a way to protect the inhabitants from attack/sacking, are/were often walled, have a church in the centre, are built in stone, and have higgeldy-piggeldy streets (generally narrow). Some developed novel ways to defend, like building on the side of a hill, thus minimising the length for protagonist entry (and enhancing defence).



In some respects, these villages are the 'modern history', the more ancient being the Roman edifaces existing (largely) in the cities. We were 'blown away' by the way the city of Nîmes has ensured the Roman monuments are the centre of (tourist) attention, and that the pedestrianisation of the city centre coupled to the wonderfully gracious treed entry makes the city stand above other cities in the region.



Aside from the 'tourist' thing, we've also really enjoyed visiting local markets, sort of talking with locals (as best we can) and just 'being' in the region. When we moved away from where the tourists flock, we were more able to engage with locals. And, we've loved driving through villages where many years ago the locals planted the entry and exit road with Plane trees. It gives such a welcoming ambience.



And, we've really enjoyed the equitable climate; (generally) not too hot with a pleasant breeze to circulate the aromas and perfumes that abound in Provence.



Tomorrow we leave Monteux and head further south-west into Languedoc to enjoy a different taste of France.



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Photos

Gorges 2
Check out the rock holding the balcony.

Provence - near Gorges
Reworking the history

Marseilles Harbour
With Cathedral viewpoint at rear.

Marseilles Cathedral view
The road to the left of the Cathedral has a tunnel under so traffic can move from one side of the harbour to the other (under the habour).

Marseilles - Vieille Charite
Built as a workhouse, later used as a military garrison, now an artspace and museum.

Arles - history meets history
At the rear of the (ancient) Roman Theatre is a park with a 19th Century artwork.

Montpellier - Basilique Cathedrale Saint Pierre
A huge building

To the Pont
Everywhere there are little walls erected ages ago to assist in levelling the ground (for farming).