France - and a bit more: 4

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France - and a bit more: Episode 4 (Weeks 5 +)

This blog describes our 2023 journey to Europe; specifically France but also neighbouring countries. As always, we segment the 'blog' into roughly weekly or fortnightly posts (this being the 4th).



Our travel blog has been written for family and friends to 'travel with us'. We now recognise we write the blog for ourselves; it is how we revisit our past adventures and remind ourselves of the the enjoyment. Thus, there is more detail included than merely a brief discourse for family and friends.



BTW, if you want to see the picture in a larger size, just click on it.




Oh, and if you missed Episode #1, you can find it here, and Episode #2 here and Episode #3 here.



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June 16 +17: Day 34+5 - Movement (or momentum?).

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June 17 was departure day from our accommodation in Monteux. So, on the 16th we cleaned up, packed and relaxed in preparation. Bruce also had to return to the doctor as his RTI hadn't gone, in fact it was getting slowly worse. The doctor prescribed different antibiotics and a Cortisone based puffer to address the chest pain.

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We had decided to visit Barcelona, as we'd not had time last time we were in the region. It's a longish drive from Monteux, so decided to have a few days at Perpignan (further south along the Mediterranean coast) before continuing into Spain.

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Departing Avignon, we headed for Beziers for a look see. While there are several 'attractions' at Beziers, the one we most wanted to visit was the Canal Du Midi as it crosses the Orb River. The canal was constructed to allow a trafficable passage for cargo hulks from Bordeaux (on the Atlantic ocean) to Toulouse via the Canal de Garonne and then via the Canal du Midi thereafter to Sete on the Mediterranean Ocean. We'd previously visited southern France and been on the Canal de Garonne at Bordeaux and at Toulouse. There is also a quite interesting cathedral at Beziers, but it being on the high point of the hill and at the end of a long, narrow and winding street with no parking, we felt the 32C day didn't warrant the 'adventure'.



We continued onto Narbonne which quite surprised us. Once a coastal town, the silted up marshes has it now about 15km from the ocean. Like most larger towns in the region, Narbonne has it's Roman relics. But, it is it was the Cathédrale Saint-Just-et-Saint-Pasteur de Narbonne that occupied our attention. For us, the church is the cultural heart of a community. The presentation of a church (especially the interior) gives us an insight into the way the local community value their culture. Clearly, there's more to local culture than just the building. There is the history, and in Europe, historic inputs to a building help us to also understand the depth of the culture. As tourists it gives us a bit of an insight. As a building, this Cathédrale is amongst the best we've ever seen. While the valued contents have been pillaged by (mainly Muslim) invaders over time, the locals have dedicated themselves over time to refurbishing the interior. For us, it is on a similar 'par' as King's College Church in Cambridge. The latter hasn't suffered the plundering and so obviously has retained more elements of antiquity. Nevertheless, we were very impressed.



We arrived at Perpignan and eventually found our accommodation. On booking, the accommodation prospects were limited and this appeared online to be OK - which essentially it was. But!!! After the quietude of Monteux, we weren't prepared for being in a very, very, narrow laneway where everyone from every apartment appeared to be outcompeting each other for a prize for the loudest noise. And, being very hot, no aircon and only widows facing the street for air, we looked at each other and shrugged our shoulders - what else could we do?



Perhaps the most challenging aspect was that there was no street parking, just a small garage. And, with the laneway being so narrow, it took Bruce many, many attempts backwards and forwards to reverse into the garage.

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June 18: Day 36 - No car day!

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We decided that as most facilities in France are closed on a Sunday, we'd spend the day wandering the city of at Perpignan.



During the night, a nagging pain in Judy's lower jaw worsened. We went in search of a Pharmacy and while we'd have liked to be able to buy an analgesic gel (eg. Lignocaine), apparently such products are by doctor's script only. Judy was able to get some herbal type spray that helped ease the pain; but not as much as she'd preferred.



The city centre is largely pedestrianised, and was once walled (initially by the Romans). Parts of the wall and/or entrance gates remain and are 'attractions'. The lanes - they can't be called streets, they're too narrow - within the original walled area are higgeldy-piggeldy and at various turns offered surprising sights - mainly odd buildings, but sometimes stairs or arches.



The (relatively recent) history of Perpignan is fascinating. Since around the 13th Century, the region was within the Kingdom of Mallorca; which stretched from Montpellier down to Valencia (in Spain). Though French is the 'official' language, locals speak Catalan; the language of Catalonia (in Spain). During the Spanish Civil War, many Catalonians fled to Perpignan (and remained). It is said Perpignan is the 3rd largest Catalan city after Barcelona and Lleida.

June 19: Day 37 - To the mountains.

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One of the reasons for making Perpignan a stopover was the proximity to Pyrenees and the cultural history therein. There were 3 options; ideally, we wanted to visit the Cathar Castles, 2nd option was the Little Yellow Train, and third Andorra. We'd previously visited Andorra, and as it is a 3 hour drive from Perpignan, was a low priority. The Cathar Castles required a bit of walking and with Judy's jaw starting to make itself challenging, we opted for the Little Yellow Train; a slow train that meanders through the mountains offering fascinating scenery. We had read a little about Catharism, and it appeared a more tolerant christian religion than Catholicism. Being forced into the hills by the (intolerant and more populous) Catholics, but gaining much popularity amongst ordinary folk, eventually Pope Innocent 3rd called a Crusade against the Cathars - with many rounded up and burnt alive and others forced to adhere to Rome to remain alive! Today we would likely call the barbarism 'ethnic cleansing', but more correctly it would better be referred to as genocide.



Heading towards the Little Yellow Train, the sky became more and more gloomy as the morning progressed. It was not long before we needed the windscreen wipers. We decided to give the train a miss and head for Andorra. We figured that with a different medical system (we hoped), it was more likely we could get Judy some stronger pain killer.



It had been 8 years since we'd been to Andorra. The city centre is at the bottom of steep mountains and then was a very tight city with few roads and plenty of tallish buildings. The buildings seemed to have tripled in height over the past 8 years. Where there was street parking, now only off street pay car parks prevail.



We went immediately to a pharmacy and was able to get a stronger anesthetic spray. In talking to the pharmacist, we learned of a dentist nearby that may be able to see Judy. Sadly, it was a little past 1pm and the dentist would not be back till 3:30 (most southern Mediterraneans enjoy their siesta.



Andorra does not charge tax on luxury consumer goods so we headed to a perfume store to stock up for Judy. While comparing prices to A$, Judy felt faint and went to sit down. But Judy collapsed, sprawling across the aisle. The staff were magnificent, fanning her to help cool down, and calling an ambulance for us. Judy awoke and (as is Judy's way) tried to assure all around she was OK. But, she wasn't and collapsed again. Bruce and the staff laid her on the floor with her jumper under her head. Within a few minutes the Ambo's were there, assuring Judy not to worry and taking her vital signs. All were within range, though her blood sugar levels were a bit elevated. By now, Judy had recovered somewhat and was trying to assert her view that she was OK to make her way to the car. The Ambo's indicated she needed to go to hospital to be 'checked out'. Judy didn't want to take up a valuable resource. As a compromise, Bruce suggested he go get the car from the parking station and Judy could use the car to the hospital.



Bruce got the car, along the way getting some cans of soft drink / milk coffee as he felt Judy may be a bit in need for something more than water. By the time he got to the Ambulance, Judy was on a stretcher inside. The Ambo's asked Judy whether she wanted to continue to the hospital in the Ambulance or with Bruce. She decided with Bruce. So, with support she was escorted to the car.



In the car, Judy explained that it was likely the tooth area was infected and that seemed like the post probable cause of the fainting. We discussed our options. To go to hospital would likely require several hours of waiting and then there was the 3 hour drie to Perpignan. Alternatively, Judy could stay overnight, while Bruce went down to Perpignan and returned with all the gear the next day. Judy decided that as we were booked into accommodation in Barcelona the next day, and the stronger anesthetic spray may keep things at bay till then, it seemed best to head directly to Perpignan.



With 100mg Paracetemol and the stronger anesthetic spray, Judy got enough sleep (despite the cacophony of noise from the laneway outside). Meanwhile, Bruce described the afternoon events to Briony (which being 8 hours time difference, she would read while we were asleep).

June 20: Day 38 - To Barcelona.

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Morning in Europe is afternoon in Queensland. Briony called and advised she'd spoken to a couple of dentists in Barcelona and suggested Judy to see one. Briony spent a 'gap year' in Chile so has a grasp of Spanish. Thus, she was able to navigate the internet and find several good dentists. After discussion with us, Briony recommended Judy attend a dentist who spoke English. She explained the one she preferred he was trained in the US and spoke good English. Briony called Barcelona and confirmed an appointment for the selected dentist for 4pm today.



While our original plan was to visit a few towns before 'hitting' Barcelona, that plan was dispensed with quickly. We arrived at our lodgings (in the hills behind Barcelona) to a peaceful and quiet house at Begues. After quickly settling in, we headed to the dentist. After several X-Rays and a mini CAT scan, the dentist diagnosed a major infection around the root of a tooth (at the lower left rear), one that Judy had had some repair work done a few months prior. He ordered some Augmentin, Iboprofin and Paracetamol to be taken over 5 days. He advised that this would eliminate the pain, but he couldn't be sure the infection wouldn't recur. And, it was possible the infection could recur days after the antibiotic finished. The option was to have the tooth 'issue' addressed at home or removed in Barcelona. Bruce contacted Judy's dentist at home, but the response didn't encourage. Judy decided that extraction in Barcelona would perhaps be a wiser move and certainly be a memory event.



An irony that didn't go wasted was that the shopfront below the dentist was a chocolatier!



Even so, given our experience with the dentist, we can't thank Briony enough for her 'above and beyond' effort.

June 21: Day 39 - Barcelona.

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The antibiotics and painkillers allowed Judy to have a reasonable sleep so we decided to go visit the tourist attractions of Barcelona. Though we'd done our research, we still headed for the Tourist Office. The journey there was novel. As we were staying in the hills some distance from Barcelona, our hosts advised to drive to the town at the bottom of the range - Gava - and buy two 10 sequence transport passes. The pass allows travel for up to 100 minutes on any form of transport (train, tram, underground, bus, etc) and costs A$1.85 per trip!!! So, we used the heavy rail to Barcelona central and found our way further around on the Metro.



We'd read that Barcelona is 'overrun' with tourists. Being Summer, and at the beginning of the travel season, we didn't find Barcelona any more crowded than several other major destinations. We get the feeling that the notion of 'overcrowding' is being used as a means to raise local taxes. We learnt Barcelona city administrators have hit accommodation providers with a quite high tax increase. They are apparently discussing what other cities have done and offer one price for a transport card for locals and another for non-locals.



The Tourist office gave us a map and listed the 'icon' sites; those owned by the Catholic church, those reflecting the work of Gaudi, and museums. We were surprised that the icon list was so limited.



The icon of icons is La Sagrada Familia; a Catholic Church designed by Gaudi and after 140 years still not complete!



Without doubt, the exterior of La Sagrada Familia is an impressive structure. And, it draws the crowds. While it may have been interesting to take a stroll inside, with an entry price of A$65 each, coupled to advice that it is always crowded we gave the idea a miss. In our adventures over the years, we've oft visited churches of all shapes and sizes and many denominations. For us, both inside and out reflect local culture. Sitting inside a quiet church, taking in the detail is a wonderful enjoyment for us. Competing with others (often) with a cacophony of noise just doesn't cut it. And, it isn't as if the Catholic Church needs the cash!



Barcelona is a largish city, so rather than travel from icon to icon, we used Lonely Planet to instead focus on localities with interesting attributes. After La Sagria, we headed for the adjacent area known as L'Eixample, with it's grid-like streets and much modernist designed buildings. After the higgeldy-piggeldy city streets we'd experienced in various towns over recent weeks, the wide boulevards with much light and wonderful street trees was somehow appealling (coming from where we do). But, the traffic and the noise!!! Clearly, the lesson is that open the street vista to car drivers and they'll drive faster!



There is a similarity in the buildings of L'Eixample to Haussman(ite) streetscapes in that most buildings were between 5 and 7 stories in wide boulevards. There the similarity ended; the difference was in the facades. Most were modernist, each with a varied decorative touch that differentiated it from those nearby. But, there was also sensory exceptionalism in the many the Catalan modernisme buildings. For us, the Catalan modernisme buildings were more Art Nouveau with enhanced decorative flair. Interestingly, Brutalism was nowhere to be seen.



We ambled along, and 'discovered' a fresh food market, the entry of which is a flower and nursery shop. The colour and 'softness' of the entry pleased our senses no end. Not far away is the Basílica de la Puríssima Concepció or Basilica of the Immaculate Conception which is not only a delightful church with wonderful cloisters, but devoid of tourists (and admission charge). We were amazed that this Romanesque style church was originally built in the countryside in the 10th Century, was transported brick-by-brick and stone-by-stone to within the city walls in the 14th Century. BTW, Romanesque is pre-Gothic style.



We stopped at a cafe and had a late light lunch - or early afternoon tea - before heading to the subway and back to the hills to relax.





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June 22: Day 40 - Barcelona.

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Using localities as our guide, we drove to the station and used public transport to arrive at Barri Gòtic or 'Gothic Centre', so named as it originally lay within the (ancient) Roman walled city and so is structured with higgeldy-piggeldy streets. The Gothic period is given as from the 12th Century through to the 16th Century. And, in the case of Barcelona, the walled city centre was progressively (re)developed during this period. And, later, further urban expansion occurred outside the area.



First icon on the list was the Catholic Basilica, La Catedral. Again, as an icon for busloads of tour groups, the entry price of A$20 each was more than we were prepared to hand over. While the inner cloister courtyard has good reviews, we didn't feel obliged to join the bedlam that is organised tour group leaders spruiking to their 'group'. The noise reminds us of a food market as stall holders spruik to try and gain attention; not very churchlike!



There are some delightful 'old' buildings to see in the area, and we enjoyed negotiating the laneways to find each. For example, we wanted to visit the Sinagoga Major and got sidetracked trying to locate it; but we eventually 'found' it. We'd read it was the oldest (surviving) place of Jewish worship in Europe. The entry is via a low door. The guide advised us that the external street is now about a metre higher than when it was originally constructed. Though the site was rediscovered a century ago during remediation/development works, the structure has been brought back to 'life' without adding material. We found that a worthwhile achievement.



Nearby is what was once the 'main' fresh food market La Boqueria, but nowadays is more a tourist attraction with stallholders selling prepared portions of food to those gaining a stool at the counter. We made our way via the back alleyways (less foot traffic) to Placa de Catalunya. This is an immensely sized square and though it has the typical statues one would find in such a place, it is better known for the plethora of high end retail stores. With her painful jaw, Judy felt like some comfort food so we found a Burger King and she ordered fries and Coke!



From Placa de Cataluna, a very wide boulevard known as La Rambla extends back through Barri Gòtic to the port (on the Mediterranean Ocean on which Barcelona sits). The city fathers have made La Rambla largely pedestrianised, though limited car traffic, bikes, and buses travel along parts. At the times we walked on sections, it was crowded. If there was any example of 'over-touristing' in Barcelona, La Rambla is it!



We wanted to visit the port, but not by La Rambla. Heading back through the side streets and alleys - which offered shade - we headed westwards towards the area known as El Raval. The area HAS character (and 'characters'). It's gritty, both refined and unrefined - depending on which street or lane we took. And, it appeared devoid of tourists.



We'd read about Església de Sant Pau del Camp and wanted to see the building, especially the Visigoth sculptural detail on the entrance. We chose not to enter beyond the vestibule as there was a Baptism ceremony taking place. That said, we were impressed by the lack of adornments to the Romanesque interior.



We eventually got ourselves to the port area, and being now quite hot we headed for the subway and back to the hills to relax.

June 23: Day 41 - Not a tooth fairy day.

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Judy had seen the dentist on Tuesday last and had agreed with the dentist that the preferable option was a tooth extraction. Today being Friday and us departing Barcelona on Sunday, it became the tooth extraction day. Using public transport, we arrived about 40 minutes early, but not to worry, the previous patient had cancelled so Judy went in early.



Like any tooth extraction, the process is brutal. However, Judy recounted that the Dentist was gently with anaesthetic application and she suffered no pain. As the anaesthetic was to wear off in an hour or so, we headed back to the hills so Judy could cope with the saga.



Once back, Judy went to bed and slept for most of the day. She awoke at evening time and wasn't particularly hungry, but had a bit of food. With more painkillers, she returned to bed for the remainder of the day.

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June 24:

Day 42 - Recovery.

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We'd discussed taking the day slow, and maybe taking a walk around lunchtime. At mid-morning we went to the local village- Begues - and bought a few items from the shops Judy felt would be easier to consume and keep her nourished. Not long before lunch, Judy returned to bed and that was the day!



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June 25: Day 43 - To Cévennes.

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We'd booked a few days in a villa in the village of Montbrun located within the Gorges du Tarn or Tarn River gorge area. The region is to the west of the Rhône River, so is in the Languedoc region. And, the village is located within the Parc National des Cévennes.



After arriving, we learnt that the Languedoc region has now been joined with the Mid Pyrenees region and together renamed Occitania! And, the locality of our destination has been given the name Longue d'Oc!



The main road from Barcelona into France is as we'd driven down from Montpellier and Perpignon. To get to Montbrun, we'd originally planned to head north-west from the border and travel via Carcassonne. But, as Bruce had forgotten to put a bag into the car at Perpignon, we ditched that idea. But, as we'd left Barcelona at a leisurely time to enable Judy to sleep in, fortunately, the Perpignon route was much quicker.



And, on this 'alternate' route, we crossed the Millau Viaduct; an amazing cable-stayed bridge, reputedly being the highest (from ground base) bridge in the world and is some 2500 metres long. To us, an engineering marvel.



Sunday is not the best time to arrive at a new location and expect to pick up a few supplies on arrival; the nation is closed. Even the corner shop only opens till about 11am. As one of the villages we passed through as we were near Montbrun (Sainte-Enimie) was 'open for the tourists', we were able to pick up some basic supplies.



The accommodation is in the heart of Montbrun, which is perched on the side of the steep sided Gorges du Tarn.





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June 26-30: Days 44-48 - Exploring Cévennes.

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It really doesn't matter where one goes within the Cévennes region, the landscape is steeply rugged and beautiful. Perhaps because France missed out on a snow season this year, the River Tarn just babbles along it's journey; turbulent over stony rapids and calm in deeper pools.



As the agricultural use of the land has evolved over many centuries, the villages have a similarity. A centre with very old buildings, and progressively newer on the outskirts. Though there are roads for cars today, in times past it was shanks' pony, donkey's and Bullocks that transported farmers, tradespeople, workers and dray's of goods. Outside of the larger villages are a host of hamlets. In the agricultural era, farmers would come to town on a market day to trade produce and buy necessary provisions. Most larger villages are located on the River Tarn as the constant water provided the energy needed to convert the primary produce into tradable goods. These larger villages had 'squares' in different locations dedicated to some form of trade; grain trade, animal trade (often a different square for pigs, another for sheep, etc.), ironmongery, etc., etc..



The Cévennes region is but an elevated plateau, with a major river (the Tarn) having been carved into the landscape over the eons. The sides of the Tarn appear as sedimentary Limestone (or similar) and easily scoured. There are about three orientations for villages / hamlets; on or very close to the river Tarn, on a flatish area up the side of the river embankment, but accessible via steep road, and those on the top plateau.



All town trading was 'approved' by the local Lord (or dominant peer), who had a representative take a tax. To sell an animal came with a charge. To sell grain, a specially shaped stone with a bowl engraved allowed a set quantity to be sold - for example 1/10th of a cubic metre. The Lord's tax man would take a portion of grain relative to the Lord's need; anywhere between 10% to 40%!!!



The River Tarn has extremely steep sides and so travel was typically on the water. At various points were several castles, each with a 'Lord' taxing people as they passed.



And, we think we're hardly done as the taxman hits us for GST & PAYE!



We learnt that the most used animal for carting was the Bullock. And, as they aren't as docile as horses for the blacksmith to apply shoes, there was a specially designed style that enabled the Bullock to be winched off the ground (via 2 straps under the stomach area) so the blacksmith could secure a leg for shoe-ing.



Most of the houses in the larger villages along the Tarn River have stone walls and slate roofs. From what we could observe, the use of slate is fairly recent; possibly a century or two. Prior to the slate, flat stones were the norm. We visited an 'historic' village high up on the plateau. The information board indicated that the villagers experienced gale force winds, heavy snow and ice. To ward off the cold, the stone walls were more than a metre thick. And, the skillion roofs are layers of flat rocks. Each looked sufficiently heavy that it'd be an amazing wind that might lift it. Now, most had thick layers of moss. We learnt this village was historic as it is referred to as Trogladyte; the term meaning cave dwelling or cave-like dwelling.



Each of the bigger towns have a history. One that was different was Sainte-Enimie. In the mid 7th Century, a beautiful princess wanted to become a Nun, but her Royal father refused. The story goes that she wanted to become less beautiful so she could pursue her desire. For some reason, she acquired Leprosy. She was 'called' to the Tarn River, to the site of a spring (the Burle) and bathing in the spring water cured her of the Leprosy. But, as she returned home, the Leprosy returned. She followed her instinct and returned to the Burle spring where she was again cured. She established a monastery, and the rest (as they say) is history.



On the plateau are of the Cévennes region, there are pockets of volcanic Granite. Near these hilly 'pockets' are many 'standing stones' or Menhirs. We'd seen Menhir's in Britain and other parts of France, but these were a little different in that the spacings between the stones is quite larger (longer?). From the Bronze age, there is no information to state why they were so placed, nor their purpose. But, for us, it's an aspect of history that isn't as readily available outside Europe.



As one would expect, there are quite a few waterfalls in the Cévennes region, and we visited several. Being out in forested areas is always a blessing for us.



Perhaps the nicest aspect of our stay in Montbrun was the peace and quiet. Both in the hamlet, but also when out an about. Even in the villages, with the narrow higgeldy-piggeldy streets, noise was at a minimum.



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Reflections...

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The best laid plans ... and all that! This section of our travel provided a few challenges. Fortunately, we were able to manage quite well. From the quick and easy access to a doctor in Monteux - where the rest of France is complaining of 'doctor deserts' - to a brilliant dentist in Barcelona. And, with 'app' technology enabling us to do research instantly when doors / roads appeared closed, we wonder a bit how we fared before the advent of electronic technology.



We had planned to visit Costa Brava to the north of Barcelona (for the coastal scenery), and some of the parks and gardens in Barcelona. But, that went out the window as circumstances changed. Similarly, some of the road trips we planned had to be altered. But, aside from the fainting 'scare' with Judy in Andorra, the visit there allowed us to secure some of Judy's favourite perfumes at a heavily discounted price; Andorra doesn't charge a consumption tax and the number of perfumeries competing for custom has resulted in quite heavy discounting. In hindsight, if it wasn't for Judy fainting in Andorra, Briony wouldn't have jumped in to arrange a great dentist in Barcelona. Bravo Briony!



Perhaps the most compelling 'reflection' is the contrast between the two 'busy and noisy' cities of Perpignon and Barcelona to the wonderfully peaceful and scenically beautiful Gorges du Tarn. Especially after we arrive home, we think we'll long remember the peacefullness and temperate climate of Summer in the the Cévennes region.



But, then again, winter in the subtropical Gold Coast will certainly be more equitable than in the Gorges du Tarn.



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Cheers

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Photos

L'Eixample Modernisme 4
Even the front door is ornate.