Paris and beyond - week 5

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This is the fifth ‘episode’ of another of 'our' travel experiences.

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These collective ‘episodes’ (this being the fifth) describe our journey from our arrival in Paris, France (in the 2nd week of May) for a holiday. The fifth week witnesses our departure from Andorra to France where we begin our return to Paris via the Midi-Pyrénées. As noted in previous missives, our journey is largely unplanned - except that we decided to focus on the 'Basque' regions of France and Spain. As also noted before - we'll sort of go where the scenery and experiences seem worthwhile. This 'blog' begins the final our journey. Eventually, we'll find our way back to Paris to depart back to Oz.



If you missed our earlier travelblog 'episodes' for this journey, here is the link to the beginning missive for the first.



We've attached a few pics that give you a flavour of our journey, and some 'flow over' past the dialogue. You may need to manually go to the 'spillover' page to see them. As always, if you want to 'see' more detail in an accompanying picture, click it to enlarge.

Friday 19th June - From Andorra & to Lannemezan

Like yesterday, the day was cloudless and mild. Not unusually, we arose late. It might have been later had it not been for the local farmer. In the quietude of the environs, we were awoken with cow bells and hooves clacking on the cobblestone laneway. We looked out the window to be greeted by a cow with it's nose up close (and, for us, a bit too personal). The farmer was bringing a couple of cows into his house yard - which for us had been assumed as urban, not 'rural'.



We had little on the agenda's of 'must see' en route, so decided to view a couple more 'attractions' in Andorra la Vella. Vella is the capital and has a resident population of 22,000, while tourists add another 15,000! With so much tourist accommodation being added over the past few decades, historical 'icons' are few and far between. On the 'list' was a 12th century church. Sadly, the church was of a more recent structure with part of one wall being 12th century - and, oddly, now rendered and painted. Mmmmmm!



By the time we departed, we realised that if we were to meet the appointed time for meeting our host at the next destination, we'd have to ensure our tail feathers didn't drag us down. With a 60 kph speed limit, getting out of Andorra wasn't going to be fast - and, it wasn't. The route to the French border is all uphill. And, it passes the ski towns of Encamp, Camillo and Soldeu - which explains the 60 kph limit. That said, we'd departed Andorra la Vella at about 2:00 so there were few drivers - most civilised Andorreans were having a pre-siesta lunch. The skier lifts from these resort towns are fantastic - gondola's up to the ski area, and multiple chairs there. Australian skiers, eat your heart out!



The pass between Andorra and France - El Pas de la Casa - also has a tunnel under. Which for us, saved much time. Once on the other side, the French border gendarmes wanted to know if we had any perfume, alcohol, tobacco or drugs. Now, who in their right mind would admit to same even if they'd just bought a tax-free swag? We said we didn't - coz we didn't - and were passed on.



The road down the Pyrénées range to Merens-les-Vals is a wicked drive. Fortunately, we largely had the road to ourselves. It's the sort of road that if allowed to be closed for half a day, Top Gear would have had their 3 'fools' driving like crazy in supercharged sports machines. For us, we just had a small turbo VW, but, nonetheless it was plaisir énorme ? !



Annoyingly, as we proceeded further north, we 'accumulated' many locals going about their business. From Merens-les-Vals to Tarascon-sur-Ariège (about 40 km) the traffic went from speed limit to slow to very slow!!! We had the option of continuing north to Foix, then travelling west to Saint-Giron and onto our destination, or deviate over the adjacent range to Saint-Giron. We figured the traffic on the 'Foix' road would be such that going over the range may not be any slower - but at least prettier than looking at the rear end of a slow car. Faster?.... mmmmm!!!! It was a narrow, very twisty road, and consequentially slow. Despite that, we enjoyed some amazing scenery (and much more twisty curvy driving).



After Saint-Girons it was just a matter of getting from point A to point B, which in our case was Lannemezan.



Lannemezan is a bastide town situated about 30 km east of Tarbes and about 100 km west of Toulouse. At or close to Lannemezan is the confluence of 14 rivers - all flowing down from the Pyrénées. Thus, it is an agricultural centre. The reason for staying here is that it was rural, and closish to Lourdes; a destination Judy has longed to visit since a child. But, Judy was not to see Lourdes. When we went to get our netbook to look at the accommodation details, our green backpack wwas missing. A quick recall of events revealed that we'd inadvertently left it at the Andorra apartment. Fortunately, our 'Lannemezan' host organised a phone call to both establish it was 'found' and for us to backtrack and collect it the following day. Phew.



With this 'load' on our minds, Lannemezan ceased to be the centre of our attention. But, we did manage a quick look around and noted the narrow streets (origin? bastide?) and the preponderence of agricultural supplies outlets. Interestingly, there was only one patisserie. Typically in towns of this size there'd be many. We could only assume a reason.

Saturday 20th June - Back to Andorra & to Toulouse

Calculating the time to drive from Lannemezan to Andorra and back to Toulouse meant a minimum of 6 hours - with no hiccups! The drive to Andorra would be 3 1/2 hours MINIMUM!



Waking early (for us, on this trip), we departed at 8:30. We'd dreaded the drive through Saint-Giron to Foix, so when we 'set' the satnav to 'superfast with tolls', we were sort of encouraged when it directed us to travel further north to near Toulouse, before joining the highway south to Foix. The nomenclature of E (meaning tolled major highway) rather than N (minor road) filled us with hope. Fortunately the road towards Toulouse was a (tolled) 130 kph highway, and the link to road south to Foix is 110 kph. The only hiccup was the minor road between the two. Fortunately, being a Saturday, traffic was minimal.



Arriving at Foix, we joined the 60 km 'slow' route to Merens-les-Vals. Being Saturday, instead of locals, the road comprised regional weekenders, many in either motorhomes or car/caravan combos. We were a bit lucky in that semi trailers going to Andorra were few. The drive down the range the previous day saw many grinding their way up the range. We pushed the little VW, and arrived at Merens-les-Vals in good time. The drive up the range was always going to be a challenge. Passing options required good luck and nerves of steel. Having spent some time in the turbo VW, Bruce had become accustomed to it's quirks. He learnt had to have the rev range in the right zone before the turbo kicked in. With that knowledge, passing cars on the uphill was quite achievable. That said, zipping past cars meant a dramatic spurt of speed, and with typically a hairpin straight after a pass, the brakes got quite a workout!



Exceeding speed limits where it was possible, the (hard) drive from Lannemezan to the accommodation in Arans took us exactly 3 1/2 hours. We retrieved the green backpack intact, and headed down the road for the 10 km drive back to Andorra de Valla. The previous days' questions by the French border guard about tax free got us thinking that we ought to investigate stocking up on perfumes.



WOW, are Australians being ripped off on perfumes. Andorra has the same retail prices as France, but without the GST. Chanel No. 5 Eau de Parfum 100ml, in Australia costs A$234. In France (and Andorra) $145 (with tax) . And, there are retailers who further discount. Apparently the French are complaining because the RRP of perfumes in the US is even cheaper again! Not so in Oz, DJ and Myer have stitched up a cartel!



So, what would you do? Same as us?



Having experienced the attention given by the French border gendamerie, we stopped out of Andorra la Valle and hid the perfume packages (including any telltale labels). We'd previously enjoyed some craft beer from an Andorran supermarket, so we got some more. We placed these prominently in the boot, just in case. When met by the border gendarme, we did our thing "Je ne parle pas Français, parlez-vous Anglais to which the border gendarme asked in English whether we were on holidays, etc. He asked where we were headed - Toulouse - to which he joyously advised us of some of the scenic attractions around that city. Not a word about perfume, tobacco, or alcohol before he waved us on!



We arrived at Toulouse at the appointed time, but the host was nowhere to be seen. After waiting, we decided to go get wifi and call him via Skype. For us, the most easily locatable place is the local tourist office - and while there, we can get local maps, etc. We put the request into the satnav, which showed us the route to the (old) city centre. Gee, was this place abuzz. We couldn't help notice the preponderance of young people. We'd read that as well as the centre for French aerospace developments it's also a major university city. But, given the population of 1.2 million (for greater Toulouse), surely students wouldn't be dominant. We'd come to recognise during our travel in the region that in public places, there are typically people across all ages.



The tourist centre (like most) is located right in the central square. We found a spot to park (ie. find a space and put on the hazard lights) and Bruce went in search of the necessary wifi to call. The wifi at the tourism office was down, "but try the cafe across the square". Bruce found a bar, had to buy some water (4 Euro, ouch) and completed the task. On his return to the car he discovered the answer to the 'young people' - the city centre had come alive for a gay 'mardi gras' parade.



After a long and hard day driving, a quiet meal in the apartment and early to bed was appreciated.

Sunday 21st June - Toulouse

Having arisen early the day before, and realising we'd have to arise early soon when returning to Paris, etc., we decided to set the alarm so we could prepare ourselves. Sunday dawned bright and cloudless, with a predicted 28C. We decided to catch the metro into the CBD and have a gander.



We'd not gotten maps nor a list of 'must see' places the previous day, so returned to the tourist office. At 10am on a Sunday, the city was again abuzz with people. But this time, the folk were across all ages. As we entered the Place de Capitole (the main square), we could see children enjoying the water play area. We'd first seen this sort of 'event' in Bordeaux, and continued to see it elsewhere. The city fathers had provided an area with small water jets that, on a cool day, act as a sort of fountain display. But, in warmth, children love to run around half naked having great fun. That many so do is testament to the design forethought. With grand buildings flanking the perimeter and tall mature trees shading the spacious plaza, the area is really a 'people' magnet. But, as we learned through the day, this is but one of several in the city centre.



Within the square a small band was playing. Little did we know that this would portend our day. We got the material we desired, and after being advised to follow a certain route to 'see' the major attractions, we headed off down a boulevard in the direction advised. We spent an hour or so gazing at grand architecture, and decided on some food. In a laneway (along the route) we spied a place selling open sandwiches. We noted craft beer in the fridge and sat to enjoy lunch. Then, a brass band started up. Oh, what joy, lunch music. Not long after the band moved on, another musician came, set up, and started to play.



We continued the 'journey' and directly or indirectly came across several musical displays - choirs, rock bands, soloists, etc., etc.. Turned out that Toulouse has a music day each year, and today was 'it' for 2015. Lucky us!



We learnt that the 'music' day is not about the city employing bands to give a free 'gig' to constituents, though that forms one aspect, rather, it is groups, bands, individuals giving their music free for a part of the day. We were told that musicians register to perform, and request a site to so do. Clearly, the busiest sites will be sought. So, a register is offered with various sites within the city - and the organiser opts to allocate based on some criteria. The end result (for us) is that one can turn a corner and find a person / group performing. And, the diversity of music played is phenomenal.



While the 'music' day forms part of the cultural context of a freedom to do, it is also part of that Western European tradition to celebrate the joy of the warmer months with their longer days. As we wandered along the banks of the River Garrone, we came across some sensational music. In a little green space, set into the rising bank, a group featuring guitar and piano accordian had a huge crowd. One listen and we realised why - amazing French type music. Later, in an alleyway, we came across a group of Nuns outside a church accompanied by assumedly parishioners, giving their all.



As we wandered seeing 'sights' and listening to music, one sight that amused us was how a young family dealt with the fact of noise eminating from some bands. Dad had a bub of about 6 months in a chest borne harness. Bub was asleep with a pair of headphones (to deter noise).



As noted, Toulouse is a large city. We spent the day wandering just the city centre. While most 'historical' buildings were 18th and 19th century - though attributes to earlier periods featured prominently - it again reinforced to us the sense of ongoing culture that Western Europeans live with in their culture. It's not only the fact of older buildings, but that attributes of those buildings have often withstood some form of desecration as power changed from one set of hands to another. In Australia, we consider our past in terms of a single entity - the British empire, and all that that entails. If ideological change is canvassed, it's largely to the extent of tweedledee and tweedledum. But, In France, the current period is the 4th Republic, with each previous incarnation overthrown with much blood. In some respects, it (partially) explains to us the pursuit of culture and freedom that is France (more than other Western nations).



One of the attractions Lonely Planet notes for Toulouse is a boat ride on Canal du Midi. We didn't know that when canal building was to the fore, a canal was built in the 17th century to 'connect' the Atlantic Ocean and Meditteranean Sea via the Garonne River. Given the landscape it traverses, we got to wondering how many locks along the length. We couldn't readily find the answer from locals, so had to go to Wikipedia (was 86, now 65). Though no longer a commercial artery, the canal appears to still well used; probably mostly tourism related.



By about 5pm we were feeling a bit weary, the heat and constancy of bitumen and bricks was getting to us. We went into the 'central' cathedral - there are several cathedrals in the city - Cathedrale Saint-Etienne. Oh, how cool inside. The cathedral has been developed over time, and the somewhat confused interior reflected the aspirations of various wardens. We were taking our time appreciating the historical and religious aspects when 'out of the blue', a magical flute sound filled the space. We followed the sound to the alter to find a person playing the pan flute. Inside the cathedral, the sound was so pure. We sat and listened. He was playing amazingly. Choices included segments of Vivaldi's Four Seasons - Autumn1, parts of Pascabelle's Canon in D, and Windmills of Your Mind to name but a few. For those that can play music, think about trying those notes on a pan flute. His wizardry over the tunes was sensational. Within a short time we realised he was self taught. Given his demeanour and approach to music, he didn't appear to be making a living from his craft. That said, his musical expression was pure love. Interestingly, we both relaxed back, closed our eyes and meditated on the sound.



Recharged, we departed back to the central square. In the few hours we'd been away, it had really filled with folk out to enjoy themselves. But, not only the square, but streets all around. And, the music styles being played had moved from quiet and relaxed to full on and up tempo. A very large (maybe 30 member) drum band were doing their Brazilian styled 'thing' with much appreciation.



We eventually had our fill of music and found a restaurant for dinner. A while later saw us on the metro and home to bed.

Monday 22nd June - Around Toulouse

Another sunny day had us back in the car to visit destinations around Toulouse. Two were on our 'agenda'; Albi and Carcassonne. Neither were close , with Albi to the north and Carcasonne to the south east. This meant a large triangle of travelling.



Being about an hour away from Toulouse, the drive Albi took us through a wide open landscape with much grain crops and many small villages. Fortunately, the freeway by-passed these villages. Like so many others, Albi is a bastide town. The main attractions were the La cathédrale Sainte-Cécile and the Toulouse-Lautrec museum.



The cathedral is reputed to be the tallest brick church in Europe. Tall it was. As is so often the case with such buildings, at some time (in the past) a power broker funded some or all a redevelopment of the building. In this case, there was apparently a small building and a big knob wanted to substantially enlarge it. But, a problem presented him in that the carved sandstone interior was of such quality, the local churchgoers refused to allow it to be destroyed. The answer? Build the brick cathedral around the sandstone interior. The result is a rather massive but gloomy interior with a contrasting ornate 'chior stalls'. One feature that amused us was a huge fresco depicting the 'good' people reading their bibles - oddly naked but genderless - rising towards white clouds, while below were others clothed in gaudy attire writhing in boiling oil!



We took our leave and headed for the Henri Toulouse-Lautrec museum. As some may know, Henri was a child of a marriage between cousins, and endured a few deformities. Being frail, he pursued a career in art; funded in part by his mother. He spent much time in the Montmartre / Pigalle area of Paris, painting prostitutes and those associating with that class. He was well respected by well known artists and so following his death, some advocated his works be displayed by the Parisian fine arts museum. Refused access, his mother donated a large body of work to the city of his birth - Albi. On display was a retrospective, which we found fascinating.



Given the tourist focus, most shops in the Cathedral precinct were restaurants. We found a Boulangerie and bought a most wonderful baguette sandwich. We'll say again, the moistish baguette with the chewy crust ensures saliva production and so elucidates the taste buds to savour.



On the way back to the car we entered the 'lesser' church the Saint-Salvi Collegiate Church. The fascination was not that it was lesser - it was - rather that it still had a delightful cloister with a beautiful herb garden. It was a nice 'retreat' from tourism central; and on that we were not alone.



The road we took to Carcasonne departed the wide valley that accommodated Albi and headed over a well vegetated range between Castres and Mazamet. The alternative was via a tolled road back through Toulouse; maybe quicker, but less scenic. It was delightful to be in natural forest after the open landscape. But, it wasn't only the forest. We'd noted that by definition of their construction, motorways are physically and socially distant from the local communities. In contrast, local roads are inclusive. When we drive through a village - typically at around 30 kph - the people and their actions become part of our imagination. Also, local roads are rarely straight and in the open rural parts require slower driving speeds. Thus, we feel more engaged when driving these roads - despite the obvious frustrations of trying to pass a very slow driver (all too frequent!). So, unless we are in a hurry, we select 'no tolls' on the satnav. And, it's surprising what one might find along the way. On this 'segment' a set of castle ruins lay there just waiting to be photographed!



The reason for going to Carcassonne was the largely intact bastide enclosing an antiquitous village with a (large) church and castle. Approaching the town, the size of the bastide - or Cité as it officially called - is truly confronting. It's huge. We were told Carcassonne was an important defensive position when the Spanish principalities had the border a little south of here. Apparently, when the French marched into Spain to assert control, the strategic need for the Carcasonne defensive position became obsolete. And, for that reason it fell into decay rather than fell to opposing forces. We learnt that in the 19th century, a benefactor funded a restoration. Sadly, the architect in charge - Eugène Viollet-le-Duc - took many design liberties and today it looks more like a Disney film set than some ancient ediface. As one example, the original turret roofs would have been given a low rake (say 5%!)(MISSING) and made of stone shingles, whereas they now have Austrian style witches hats made of slate.



Perhaps it is for the disneyfication that attracts hordes of tourists. And, hordes there are. The ground floor level of all the dwellings inside the defensive walls have been given over to tourist services; souveniers, restaurants, cafes, bars, clothing and artifact shops. And, it seems, the crowds love them as most appeared to be making good money.



We remarked that we heard more American voices in the short time were there than we have for the past few years. We were (somewhat) fortunate that we'd left our visit till later in the day. While the bastide had no entry charge, not so the castle (proper). And, as the castle entry closed at 6:30, our 6pm entry afforded us a lerss busy journey through the narrow laneways than had we arrived earlier in the day.



We took our leave and headed to the (tolled) motorway for the hourlong drive back to a beer, salami & cheeses, dinner and wine, and a good sleep.

Tuesday 23rd June - From Toulouse to Barbaton via Lourdes

Again a lovely sunny day - the few wet and cool days in Spain has made us really appreciate the sunshine for travelling.



On Friday last, we'd stopped overnight at Lannemezan as it is close to Lourdes; a place that is high on Judy's bucket list. Our misadventure of leaving our netbook in Andorra meant we didn't then get to Lourdes. So, needing to travel west to get to Bordeaux to return the rental car, today was the day for Lourdes.



As a child, Judy was given rosary beads which included a vial of Lourdes water, and advised it was 'special'. The Catholics do a great job on idolising places deemed reverent. And, Lourdes is near the top of the list. In fact, it is the third most important site of international Catholic pilgrimage after Rome and the Holy Land. So, for Judy, visiting Lourdes was part of her culturalisationation.



Lourdes is at the foothills of the Pyrénées, near Tarbes. As such, the drive between Toulouse and Lourdes took us from open landscape to undulating hills to hilly terrains. Where we departed with large holdings of cereal crops, corn and sunflower, we ended with small holdings of the same but also grapes. Again, with time on our side we took the rural roads. We travelled through some amazing country. One thing that can be said about the landscape in the south of France is that it aint boring. While each landholding may have a monocultural crop, there was always a great diversity of crops (and maturation) such that colour and texture added so much to the vista.



Lourdes, what can be said? Bruce and Judy had quite different views on the place. Judy was taken by the grotto - the site where Bernadette had her apparition back in 1858. She also received much joy drinking the spring water eminating from the grotto - water with a reputation for healing the unwell. The forecourt beside the grotto was filled with hordes of invalids being transported on pull carts by what seemed retired nurses. There were ample able bodied folk as well. We learned Lourdes hosts around six million visitors each year. This has transformed what was once a quiet village into the second most important center of tourism in France (after Paris). But, both agreed the commercialisation of tackiness is here to the fore.



On one bend as we departed Lourdes, a large extent of a section of the Pyrénées came into view. Oh, look at that, there's some snow again, and it's in the form of a cross - that's a sign I had to come to Lourdes and I have!"




We'd booked a night at a little village called Barbotan Les Thermes, in the locality of Cazaubon (north of Lourdes, and near Mont-de-Marsan). The region is 'fed' by the Garonne River, but obviously much further upstream than at Toulouse. It is a well regarded region for 'gastronomy'. The drive from Lourdes to Cazaubon was equally as pretty as that we'd experienced between Toulouse and Lourdes.



At Barbotan we headed to a supermarket for a few supplies (ie. dinner) and popped into a patisserie for a baguette and desert. WOW did they have some specialties we'd not seen before. That's what we'd noticed in our travels this time. While most patisserie's would offer a selection of the 'primary' cakes /tartellete varieties, many offered specialties that were quite different. In this case we spied a variation on the classic millefleur. It had just two 'wafers' with a hazlenut flavoured cream in between (again, oh so light), but topped with several 'balls' of an almond flavoured choux pastry glazed with a wafer thin layer of toffee. Devine does not go anywhere near to explain the mouth experience. The other was an apple tartlet - known as Croustade aux Pommes - except that the 'pastry' was of a filo style and leaves were formed to make a crown. The patissier told us that layers of buttered and sugared sheets of filo are topped with sugared apples flambeed with Armagnac. This was a more solid in the mouthfeel, and with the apple, felt 'grounded'. Neither had the sweetness that would be found in similar 'treats' in Australia.

Wednesday 24th June - From Barbaton to Bordeaux

By a series of circumstances, we felt we'd spent too much time in the car and not enough wandering on shanks' pony.



We were to return to Bordeaux today in preparation of returning the car tomorrow and heading to Paris. We promised ourselves we'd spend more time wandering.



The day opened just as sunnily as the day prior. We departed and headed into the Barbotan village as it was market day. We do like village market days. Not only do providores come to sell what is ordinarily unavailable in the supermarkets - eg. specialty hams, cheeses, glace fruits, etc. - but also local growers offer their wares. Like markets everywhere, there were also the stalls of cheap clothes and bric-a-brac (or bricolage in French).



After a few samples, and a coffee, we headed north-west. First village that got us out of the car was Montréal.



We'd diverted along the way near to this village to view an excavation of a Roman era villa. The literature noted the diversity of the mosaic floor. With a 10 Euro pp admission, we continued without entering. Odd that, the site was 'discovered' by a farmer in the 1930's, explored by archeologists, and sort of forgotten due to the depression, local conflicts and later WW2. Another local told an historian of his fathers' experience of the site and investigations led the French gov't to declare the site a natural 'relic', and after proper clearing, placed a roof over the site. But, to get to it, one has to travel over the farmers land. The 10 Euro is for the farmer!!!



Alongside the tourist office in Montréal is a small (free) museum. Inside were a plethora of mosaic samples (reportedly) plundered during the lull between archeological 'attention'. Gee, sometimes one is lucky! With a beautiful day, we wandered around the village enjoying the peacefulness.



We asked the attendant at the tourist office about the word Floc used on posters in the area. We were told the correct term is Floc_de_Gascogne and is a sweet fortified wine of Armagnac and grapefruit juice. We asked where we might try some, and were told "it is everywhere, wherever you see armingac for sale, it is there". We took our leave of Montréal and headed in the direction of a few vintners that attendant had told us to visit.



Whatever the cause, none on the list were open that day. In exploring for vintners, we stumbled across Fourcés. Apparently Fourcés was once a commune of the alternate lifestyle type) developed by the noble controlling the area. It was built as a circle of dwellings around a circular central park (village square). Quaint is hardly the word. Walking around we couldn't help notice the attention given the various gardens. The only restaurant was bursting at the seams with grey nomads.



The town we'd been heading for was Condom. Judy had wanted us to stay there for the pure perversity of so doing. Condom has a long history, and is very much on the tourist trail within this Gacoyne region.



While we had a quick shoofty, our appointment with the apartment owner in Bordeaux meant we had to depart. having spent an enjoyable time wandering around various villages, we decided to 'toll' our way to Bordeaux.



Having recalled a place in Bordeaux that had great craft beer, we hopped on a bus and returned. Aaaaah, the beer was good!!! While having a beer, Judy expressed an interest in trying Armagnac. We asked for a small amount in a balloon glass. Ordinaires or Superieur?" we were asked. We chose Superieur ..... WOW, does this stuff pack a punch. Basicly being a brandy, we assumed from the literature it would be brandy like with perhaps a differing flavour. We'd also read that it can be up to 80 percent proof. This 'sample' tasted like it was way up at the top end.



Looking for a meal, the publican (it was a sort of pub) suggested a place a few doors along the street. What a great choice. With full tums and a relaxed vibe, we made our way to the apartment.



Tomorrow we return the trusty VW polo, catch the TGV train to Paris for the night and head for the airport home.

Reflections

Where to start - we've been to so many places and had even more differing experiences.



On the physical aspect, we've been appreciative that we've not encountered anything untoward (ie. sickness, etc.). The only hassle, and its been by our own making, we've both put on too much weight. But, the 'affliction' has not been without much pleasure!



On an emotional level, relating with people from different cultures and languages has pushed us to evaluate what it is in our own culture that makes us want to act/react in the way we do. For example, it's frustrating following a pedestrian or driver moving slower than we'd prefer. The initial reaction is to emotionally react, or try to pass. But, these are responses from our own culture. Clearly, if a majority of Spanish and French people want to eat after 9pm, why should we judge them on our standards and emote a response (but we did privately!).



On experiences, there are so many. We both grew up in a temperate climate, so the weather of the regions we visited around the Pyrénées was appreciated. We do love the sub-tropical climate in which we live. But, there is something agreeable when the weather attributes change more frequently. But, on reflection, the long warm days of the recent fortnight have been greatly appreciated for travelling.



After leaving Paris, we began the second week not really knowing where we'd head. But, being in the south of France meant that it'd likely be around the Pyrénées. We discussed what we 'liked' about the trip and we each raised various different reflections. Central, though, were those unplanned 'finds'. Explaining this, we generally don't venture forth uninformed. We do like to read up about a prospective place and we've learnt to 'sus' out what may be representative of the icons/attributes and (where possible) how to avoid the tourist hordes. So, coming across a 'find' - that is, something great that we'd not anticipated - gave us both great enjoyment. There were many. The standouts were:



Judy's top 3 place list (in no order):



Andorra - was unexpected. The clean, green, jaw-dropping landscape dramatically contrasted with where we'd been. The crystal clear streams, even in the city, seemed to charge the atmosphere. The compact, but energised, capital had few gritty places.



Logroño - it turned out to be the best 'package'. By accident, we stayed longer than we'd anticipated. We arrived on a festival day and this provided that charge typically missing when entering a city. The pintxo's were to die for. The apartment just worked so beautifully for us. And, the diversity of landscapes we saw and activities we undertook in the surrounding area just 'balanced' the city and rural.



Navarrette - for the church. From the exterior it was relatively unimposing, but once inside the 'space' and the Gregorian chant elicited a wonderful heartfelt experience.



Bruce's top 3 place list:



Salies-de-Béarn - for the adherance to history. Each of the many restored dwellings had the exterior refurbished to return them to their former glory. Perhaps the only difference was the use of paint (and paint colours) to highlight particulars. So often refurbished dwellings either obliterate the past, or impose attributes that were never there. Salies-de-Béarn appears to have a controller to ensure historical conformity. Fortunately, the town hasn't also succumbed to the tacky to exploit the last tourist Euro. The town really felt like it had been transported to 'today', with a lick of paint to tart it up.



Saint-Jean-de-Luz - for the charm. By Australian standards, the beaches on the southern French coastline are less than flash. And, the intense tourist developments fronting thre beaches makes for gaudy and tacky. St Jean Port de Luze is a step in another direction. Yes, there are tourist apartment blocks. But, these have been set well back from the tear-drop bay. Yes, there is the commercial for tourists. But, it's sort of 'there' but in a laid back style. Perhaps because it was for so long a fishing port, and developed around a city square alongside the port that sets it apart. Whatever, it was a great find amongst the otherwise very ordinary.



Iraty Forest, both in France and in Spain - because the natural (seemingly unlogged) forest so contrasted the 'constructed' landscapes of city and rural. Sadly, the time we were in / close to these forests, the weather was (or predicted to be) inclemant. The few times we were able to wander the forests allowed the batteries to be recharged in a way that the 'constructed' is not able. Sitting on soft grass under a large Beech tree was delightful. The added bonus of a babbling brook turned it into pure bliss. There just wasn't enough!



We've mentioned the food several times. Even so, being able to go to a supermarket or artisan producer and buy cheeses, salami's, hams, baguette etc., and consume over a relaxing beer at the end of the day turned out to be a treasured experience. On our previous trip to France, we went to the supermarket to buy lunch food and consume in a park or somewhere. So, that gave us the momentum and having an apartment to ourselves meant we could really enjoy the offerings that are just not available in Australia. And, having light till around 9:30pm meant that where available we could enjoy this pleasure on an apartment balcony and watch the world go by.



A major 'find' for us was Airbnb. We'd used it in Kiwiland, and it was (there) OK. But, in France we found it great. Given that on our last trip we tended to use the chambre d'hote' option - b&b's - without a doubt the Airbnb apartment option made the trip much more enjoyable. The difficulty with chambre d'hote we found was that if we didn't want to book in advance we could really only book on the day from the nearest Tourism office. While Airbnb is typically focussed for 'in advance' bookings, this was usually from the day before. And, often there were 'instant book' options. And, all online.



Perhaps the only 'issue' was that we were obligated to meet the dwelling 'owner', and so had to commit a time well ahead. Had we had a phone, we could have (re)negotiated a time had we wanted to delay arrival. Thus, the 'hassle' of a fixed meeting time was ours; we didn't have a phone. Clearly, we've learnt a lesson. But, the process of actually meeting the host and learning a little about him/her greatly added to the experience of our stay. And, all too often we learned much about local attractions and transport options. Two attributes we liked; one, the apartments available were typically not in the city centre as would be an hotel (so no parking limited), and two, they offered us more facilites for our $$ compared to hotels or chambre d'hote. Some even had a washing machine and an iron which made clothes organising so much easier.



What we particularly liked in using apartments is that they had a kitchen (and kitchen facilities) which allowed us to minimise daily expenses. Unlike Australia, we found Spanish and French supermarkets offer a range of fresh pre-cooked meals in their deli's. And, while generally of a casserole or paella type of dish, sometimes other options occurred. As the options changed across the varying regions, we felt we were sampling food that locals would eat. Restaurants are great, but tend to offer specialty food. And, often expensive. And, as in Spain, we could eat before 9pm.



Cheers

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