Today we were up at 6.00 a.m. Well, we weren’t really, the clocks changed in the small hours, so 6.00 was the new 7.00, and our bodies were complaining. (Especially Malcolm’s and mine. I’d insisted last week that the clocks had changed, and dug us up just as early then, but only so that we could spend an hour looking for a non-existent bar to while away the time before we met our fellow walkers, once we’d realised my mistake). This time, we were heading away from the Ariège into the Aude, our neighbouring département. It can be just as varied and glorious in its scenery, but today we were driving through the almost Tuscan landscape of rolling hills, pretty hillside villages, and vineyards, vineyards everywhere. It’s gorgeous of course, but those of us accustomed to
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