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Our first night in Paris was spent in a dingy yet charming hotel in the Latin district run by an old couple and their chien. Our room had a lovely view out of the old 19th-century building into the quiet street far below, but it also had an appliance that could be either a bidet or a toilet - we couldn't figure it out in any case, so we decided to try our luck somewhere else the next night.
On Sunday morning we got up early and headed towards Notre Dame cathedral. I can't begin to describe that experience. The clouds of strange and spicy incense, the vast arches and vibrant glass, the constant flash of tourists' cameras (despite signs forbidding it), and the singing - oh the singing! The choir and soloists sang either in french or in latin, and we responded (as best we could) in french. It really was like the music of angels, soaring to the vaulted roof, bringing tears to my eyes.
Unfortunately, that wasn't the only time I almost cried that day. We went back to the old hotel to get our bags, and set off toward Montmarte, where a whole bundle of hostels
was supposed to be. We crossed the Seine, passed the Louvre, and saw the Eiffel Tower periscoping up in the distance. Unfortunately, it didn't really matter because it felt like my arms were being ripped out of their sockets and my feet were being ground into stubs. Also, it was raining (as it is now), so we weren't entirely happy by the time we got to Montmarte. Now, the way we came up to Boulevard de Clichy, which our new hotel was off of, we noticed nothing strange. Our room was the worst I hope I ever see (I won't describe it in too much detail), but at least it had a real toilet and a lock. Unfortunately, after buying crepes for dinner, we decided to go for a stroll down the street, and we discovered that we'd chosen what must surely be the worst area in Paris to stay. Let's just say that we slept practically right next door to the Moulin Rouge. We kept reminding each other it would make a good story later, but we're quite glad to now be staying in a nice, vibrant hostel (the "Young and Happy") in the Latin district, where we wanted
to be at first.
I love Paris despite its bipolar personality; the french people here seem to be as friendly as they've been everywhere else, so I don't know what everyone complains about. We're living on a steady diet of crepes and panini because they're cheap and warm. To all the naysayers who thought it couldn't be done, yes, we are alive on our low low budget, and having a marvellous (though damp) time!
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That's Paris
Hey Liz, Reading this reminded me of my accidental forrays into the wrong side of both Paris and London. It took me a while to clue in that certain quartiers had a "reputation". Eh bien, at least you're getting a well-rounded experience. Notre Dame sounds awesome. All is well here. We had 10 girls sleeping over this weekend for El's B Day - Jer was thrilled. Take care, and a big "Bonjour" to Alice!