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GettingThere: Getting to Helsinki was a treat in itself. Our friends left us straight after disembarkation from Viking Truvor because their plans for the 'Baltics' started then. They were booked to take the fast train to Helsinki. Because CS and PP like the aquatic/nautical theme in most things we had explored the passage by ferry instead. Initial advice seemed to suggest that the only ferry service was dodgy, the ships old and unattractive and on the whole not the way to go. CS decided to dig a bit deeper and we ultimately booked a passage on the St Peter Line's Princess Maria. Leaving St P at 7pm and arriving in Helsinki 8am the following morning, Commodore cabin and caviar and champagne breakfast thrown in for a most reasonable tariff did not sound all bad.
In the event it was wonderful. We like to give ourselves good time and had been warned to be at the terminal no later than one hour before departure. We arrived at 4pm after a short taxi ride from the hotel to the Sea Station on Vasilevsky Island. Collected our boarding material promptly and were invited to go aboard immediately, if we wished. We
were able to keep our bags with us. Exploring the public facilities, bars and decks, after dropping our gear in our very comfortable cabin was pleasant. We booked for the a la carte restaurant rather than the buffet (which started at 6pm and went for an hour only - sounded a bit like animal foddering) and enjoyed drinks in two of the bars before dinner. White nights of course allow a terrific view of the departure from the city which began on the dot of 7pm. The way out of StP by sea is not as obvious as it seems, probably because the inner reaches of the Gulf of Finland are actually quite shallow. We sailed along a narrow channel on the south side of the Gulf, heading west, for some considerable distance, observing Peterburgers enjoying their short hot summer in swimming trunks and BBQ sessions along the shore. This reclaiming project does not appear on any maps we could find, but is progressing rapidly, we are guessing, and creating this little haven for city-siders on their doorstep. Once out into open water the Baltic was like a mill-pond, reminiscent of our superb Pacific crossing some years before.No risk of
spilling the champagne!
Lovely dinner, there were not many folk in the restaurant because they were mostly queuing in large number for miles in front of the duty-free shop in the foyer. We both slept very comfortably and were on for our special breakfast the next morning. Time moves an hour but 7am Russian time seemed like a good time and we initially had the dining room virtually to ourselves enabling us to nab a terrific vantage point in the bow. Leisurely champagne, caviar and lots besides was all we could have hoped for.
As we approached Helsinki we witnessed a 'funny' little shipping drama we suspect may lead to litigation in due course. Our large ship approached several small island outcrops as we neared and the marked channel was obviously quite narrow. Ahead an equally large vessel was pulling out in front of us. We became aware, as indeed no doubt did the skippers of both large vessels, of a small but significant boat about the size of a Brisbane cross river ferry being towed, it seemed, by a smaller vessel right in the middle of the shipping lane. It then appeared as
if the tow rope snapped and the towed vessel was drifting and wallowing in the absolutely wrong place. The Tallink vessel held off and we started to side-slip as well. The exercise took at least 20 minutes before a Maritime speed-boat appeared at great speed and ultimately the towed vessel was removed as an obstacle and both ferries proceeded.
We berthed about 30 minutes late, but we did not need to leave until 10.30 Finnish time. Unfortunately we judged it a bit too close and when we disembarked about 9.30 there was a huge queue for Customs. Surprisingly old-fashioned for the reputedly efficient Finns. However the taxi ride to our hotel was short and sweet. We were in town!
Helsinki: this place is a surprise for lots of reasons. It feels more like a large town than a capital city. Everything is in easy reach on foot and CS and PP took advantage to find that out as soon as we could. Warm weather and quite gusty winds found us seeking the shady side of the streets. Finns were out in force, many in scant clothing, sunbathing in parks and on street verges. We
also saw a lot of well dressed young people wearing white 'sailor' hats and carrying roses. We learned that it was 'graduation day' for all secondary school students and there were formalities taking place in churches and halls everywhere. We suspect these were followed by a 'schoolies' style celebration because the town was popping that night and we were a bit surprised to see the following Sunday morning heaps of rubbish, up-ended garbage bins and middens of cigarette butts and empty bottles scattered around the streets.
Our searches for an 'authentic' Finnish feed that night netted a wonderful little place called Konstan Molja. Highly rated on the internet this little buffet restaurant could hardly be more Finnish. Harry and his wife have run it for over 30 years and obviously prepare the food and attend to the guests with close 'hands-on' care. We made a booking but were never sure it mattered much. When we arrived there was a certain level of chaos but we were soon settled at a tiny table with a bottle of Australian red and invited to help ourselves from a range of pots on display. The food was delicious and the ambience
warm.
Sunday morning broke sunny, again, but the wind had dropped and we spent the day literally walking all around Helsinki drinking in the sites and spotting the notable features. Apart from the excessive rubbish already referred to the stroll was delightful. Not many people on the streets early so we had numerous photo ops without disturbance. Mannerheim Street to the Opera House then across to Sibelius Park and the monument to the composer (which is not kinetic as CS had read somewhere) onto the beach road through the park, into the cemetery, and out again, and ultimately back to the Glo Hotel. The pictures tell the tale.
That night we dined at a restaurant across the road from our hotel and had an in depth conversation with a woman we befriended. She is Russian with a German father, born in Finland who now lives in Sweden. She was easily late 80s but full of beans and enjoyable to chat with about her experiences. She had been to Australia (Canberra and Sydney) but not Brisbane.
Monday was allocated 'chores' day. CS had packed far too many jumpers and boots for the
The Esplanade Gardens
Lovely summer gardensweather, having researched and anticipated 18 degree maximums (rather than the temperatures in the mid 20s we were getting) so a parcel despatch back to Oz was in order to lighten the load. She kept her full length London Fog rain coat just in case but still managed to pack a carton full of excess clothing. We had also accumulated a pile of dirty laundry that needed attention. 19 euros or thereabouts per item in the hotel seemed a tad pricey. The desk clerk was happy to direct us to the nearest Laundromat and post office, which coincidentally and conveniently were located in the same direction quite close to each other. Both chores were effected with the minimum of fuss, with a glass of fresh Italian white taken between activities, of course. Washing and drying cost 9 Euros total!
Later in the afternoon we decided to walk to the one area of town we had so far neglected.
This little bump of land to the east of the main part of town is called Katajanokka and appears to be an island now, if not a natural one. We strolled down there in search of a dining
venue but discovered it was largely residential. On the return stroll we spotted a number of vessels against the dock, one of which was offering a cruise around the islands with dinner. Two and a half hours to exercise yet again our joy of being on the water - how could we resist? We didn't. We nabbed one of the last tables which we were required to share with two others. Yucca was a local and his dinner companion, Kathy, was a business associate from Shanghai. Yucca was a wonderful informal guide to have as the boat negotiated the myriad of small islands dotted in the waters just off the city. This is where the Finns come to play in the summer but Yucca explained that he and others also ski these waters in the winter when they ice up, and he fishes there as well. Along the shores are places called 'summer houses' most of which would certainly suit CS and PP all year round. Our impromptu decision proved to be the portend for a lovely evening. A fitting end to our pleasant sojourn in Finland.
We were booked on the ferry the next day to
Tallinn. Departure was a civilised 10.30am so we taxied to the terminal a mere 5 minutes away and ultimately boarded the vessel without much fuss except that it was equally as big as the one from StP and much more packed with passengers. Yucca had explained that many Finns simply take the boat ride across in order to stock up on duty free alcohol. There are apparently no restrictions on how much they can bring in so people stack their cars with crates of booze. We found a nook in the bow where we could sit for the two hours the journey would take.
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David Macfarlane
non-member comment
Gidday PP and CS in Helsinki
A great read as usual..you are both looking exceedingly well...as I prepare for an early flight for Roma I am thinking I should be doing a bit of this cruisin... take care...Makafaleni