Finding Coziness in Copenhagen

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I heard of the Danish concept of “hygge”, a word that loosely translates as “coziness”, before arriving in Copenhagen. Although I have only been in this city for two days, I think I am beginning to understand what it means. It is not, as I originally feared, a cutesy idea of comfort or a more insidious complacency, but finding a bit of quiet, alone or with friends, enjoying a good meal and a drink, and the like. Candles come out in the dusky night and people huddle closer to talk intimately with one another. They find a nice lunch spot and enjoy a few smørrebrød (open-faced sandwiches) and a cold beer. Thus begins my Viking themed voyage. Not with bloody battles and Viking blood feuds, but with coziness. I am going to like hygge.

I arrived in Copenhagen after a long Icelandair flight via Reykjavik. Somehow it seemed fitting that my journey would, if briefly, begin with where I will end. Although I was only on the ground in Iceland for an hour or so, the view out the window as we landed and took off was spectacular: empty lava fields; patches of browns, oranges, and greens; milky white lakes and rivers; and the occasional isolated village. It definitely whets my appetite for what is to come near the end of my trip. But for now I am in the largest, most cosmopolitan city I will likely experience in the next seven weeks. I admit that I arrived assuming that Denmark in general, and Copenhagen specifically, would be a tad too cute and tidy for me. But I was mistaken.

Copenhagen has an edge I did not expect; it is a real city, pulsing and vibrant. The old city mixes easily with post-modern architecture (witness the “Black Diamond” addition to the Royal Library). Baroque architecture is filled with twenty-first century design furniture. It is a city with which it is easy to fall in love.

As a walker, I have been very happy these past two days. For one, the weather has behaved, despite forecasts of rain and rain (instead it has been sunny with the occasional cloud, warm but with a cool breeze - my kind of summer!). I have looped through a large swath of territory, taking in the Radhuspladsen (The City Hall Plaza), Christiansborg Palace (now parliament), the Rundetarn (Round Tower - self-explanatory!), the university, a number of churches, and many of the pedestrian shopping streets. I also enjoyed the Nationalmuseet, which had a wonderful exhibition called “Stories of Denmark 1660-2000”, a well-executed depiction of Danish history in all its complexity. Since I am a world history teacher, I cannot but be drawn to Denmark’s interactions with the rest of the world - including the parts I will soon be visiting. The exhibit included displays on Norway, the Faroe Islands, Iceland, and Greenland, all once or still Danish territory. I also learned of Denmark’s more far flung imperial endeavors. Who knew that Denmark had a trading colony, Tranquebar, in India until the mid-1800s? I will have to check that out more thoroughly.

All in all, this has been an excellent way to begin my long summer journey. I am glad I still have a week in Denmark to discover the deeper meanings of hyggen.

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Comments

[Aly]

Friends in Copenhagen
Hey James, Thanks for the posting. Will have to learn more about Tranquebar. I have a few friends in Denmark in case you have time and want to meet some locals. Let me know. Cheers, Aly

[Jimmi]

Very nice post
Interesting post - and interesting journey none the leas.t I am a Dane living in Copenhagen. A little note to your comment about the territories; Greenland and the Faroe Islands are still Danish territory. Norway and Iceland are independent countries now. I am not sure if you are aware of this, but Denmark used to be quite a bit larger - other than the parts mentioned above. A large part of Sweden was once Danish, and the Danish border towards Germany was once further south into Germany. The US Virgin Islands were Danish untill 1917 where they were sold to the US. I hope you will have a wonderful trip.

[Nancy]

Hi James- I was just talking to Kata and telling her I was sure you were going somewhere but for the life of me couldn't remember where. How exciting! I have always wanted to go to Iceland. I saw the funniest No Reservations on Iceland on the Travel Channel. I laughed so hard I almost peed my pants. But then again, I am pregnant so I pee a lot. I love your travel pics and stories James. Hope you are having a blast. Nancy

[Jamie]

Wow!
Copenhagen sounds quite lovely, and your pictures are great!

[cemkess]

thanks
Thank you, Jimmi, for the nice response. I actually do know that the Faroe Islands and Greenland are still Danish territories (I did my homework!) and, as a history teacher, I was aware that Denmark used to be much bigger. Part of my reason for this trip is to explore a big part of these territories. Anyway, I am glad you enjoyed the post!

[cemkess]

pregnant?
Did I know that? Or is this new news? I swear I can't keep up with my friends and their baby-making ways! When are you due? Anyway, I am indeed having a great time -- I think Copenhagen is going on my top ten list of favorite cities. If it just weren't so damn expensive! (And it's only going to get worse from here on out...) Anyway, I hope you enjoy my ramblings! More soon...

[narges]

!!!
this is great. its going to be where in the world is... i am so envious of all your travels but love the fact that i can live vicariously through you while i roast in 115 degrees weather in phoenix (thats a record high)!!!