Today, after breakfast in the fake forest, we return to Croatia and the city of Split. We settle our bill, which comes with a free pipe (never know when that will come in handy) and depart. Once out of Sarajevo, we drive along the Neretva river until the SatNav tells us to turn right, into the mountains. We climb and climb and climb. The views are spectacular. Eventually the road becomes a gravel track and we have to pick our way along 4 km of trail. It’s so ‘off road’ that after a long period of not seeing another vehicle, we start to get passed by 4x4s with drivers and co-drivers wearing helmets. We’re caught up in some sort of Paris-Dakar style rally. Finally we reach the top, there’s an archway, the tarmac appears and we’re
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