For you lady, special price...

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I have to give the sellers of everything from pens to bracelets to tablecloths to scarves and more credit- they are persistent in the face of almost constant rejection. They follow you down the street. They come to your table at the restaurant. They wait for you outside the restaurant. They stand by you at the Internet cafe. Always the same words " For you lady, a special price. Good Price. $1." And, my friends, if you believe that one then I have a bridge to sell you in Brooklyn. When I answer that I have one they respond "Otro mas ( other one) For your cousin. For your friend." They line the streets of Panajachel along with the myriad fried chicken and french fries booths giving the air the smell of a Country Fair midway.

Today Val and I thought we would escape to Santiago Atitlan, a small town across the lake. A tout tried to get us onto his private boat for $40 a pop. We settled on the public launch for 50 Quetzals ( about $6) round trip which was about 20Q more than the locals pay. We have decided that most likely we are going to get ripped off but the entertainment factor of their efforts to get us to buy something is worth the extra money. The launch is a glorified 'Boston Whaler' type boat with lots of seats. I think there were about 15 of us squeezed in it with no life jackets in sight. Keep in mind that the lake is over 2,600 feet deep. It is surrounded on all sides by volcanoes and hills and a small mountain that is said to be the one that was written about in the children's story "The Little Prince". The water was not exactly blue like the ocean nor turquoise like the Carribbean. It had a shimmer of sea foam green that you might find on a piece of worn sea glass. It was the green of a pure piece of ancient jade. The waters were calm went we went to Santiago with the volcanoes standing tall as sentinels and perfect in their ancient conical formations. There were no pleasure boats. No fishermen. It was a bit like being on your own private moon crater. It is an inverted volcanic cone full of pure mountain water. Exquisite. Put it on your list for "what to see before I die!"

After landing we were again beseiged by touts: to be guides, to get a taxi, yada, yada." No, no, no no, no, gracias" we said, till finally we were left alone. We visited the ancient cathedral high up in the center of town. It is as long as a football field with high arched ceilings- very unusual because most buildings are built one or at the most two stories high because of earthquakes. Midway up along the white side walls were groupings of statues. Each group was dressed in a different color of a long satiny shirt: barbie pink, bright aqua, powder blue, flower prints, black and red. All had 'Gucci' knock off scarves tied around their necks in a cravat type bow. Some had scarves wrapped around their heads. They were fascinating to look at. I can truly say I have never seen anything like it before in my life. The altars were ceiling high and all hand carved wood- fantastic works of art with more of the fully dressed statues. One side altar had Christ on the cross dressed in a typical embroidered cloth ( like the people here wear). I overheard a guide saying that that was the altar that the Mayans worship at.
Outside the church was the playground of an elementary school. We took a few minutes to watch as a young man ( the Physical Education teacher) was leading a group of about 35 five and six year olds in some circle games. The kids clearly adored him and he could have told them to lie down and lick the dusty pavement and they would have done it. I'd like to tell you that kids playing on playground anywhere in the world make the same delightful sounds. It is a joy to hear.
Carolyn

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