shredding it.

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not really. i went surfing about five weekends, and never stood up for longer than 10 seconds. 10 seconds of glory. really, regardless of how long i stood up, i loved it. so fun. to be in the waves and under the sun, to get completely thrown around by the big powerful ocean. fun until it hurts really bad. but then you prop your board up on the beach so it makes some shade, and, shamelessly, rest your tired, beat up ass underneath it.

that's it. the people you see surfing in these photos are definitely not me. i am probably under water somewhere.

these photos are from El Tunco, which is beautiful, but my favorite surfing spot in El Salvador is El Zonte. way quieter. more relaxed, way less of that cool surfer dude vibe, which makes me wanna laugh and puke at the same time.

a huevo.

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