El Salvador


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Published: August 13th 2008
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trip so far


Wow! i didnt realise it has been so long since ive written and ive crossed 2 borders!
El Salvador is not really on the Gringo/Lonely Planet trail...many people avoid it due to its dangerous reputation. Lucky me!
It is a beautiful country with fantastic people, who just want to talk to you. They are a very proud people and have put up with a ridiculous amount of torture, oppression and poverty over the years, being the US puppet in Cental America didnt help their cause.
However the country is outstandingly gorgeous and clean, the roads are good are the towns completely diverse. After leaving the turtle hatchery just outside Montericco, Guatemala, it took my the standard whole day to complete my journey. The longest i waited for a bus was 1 hour after the boat from Montericco. Its amazing how the chicken buses work...there seems to always be a bus waiting! I cant believe so many people travel all the time.
I travelled through the big town of Sonsanate, not a great place to stop and made my way to Santa Ana. All the bus trips in El Salvador seem to be less than $1 and they tear along at breakneck speed...again safety is not foremost on anyones mind. The old US schol buses sport warnings about ´buckling up´ but there are no seat belts at all...quite funny as the seats are made for kids, i think so its always a giggle when we all squeeze in...chickens and all! Yup... Ive now shared my seat with several squawking, feathered, beady eyed friends!
In Santa Ana there is an amazing place to stay, Casa Frolez! Javier, the owner has a beautiful home that he shares with people. A dorm bed (4 single beds and ensuite) costs the grand total of $7 a night and fresh coffee is always on the go! The kitchen is beautiful as is the garden and lounge room. For the seasoned hostel traveller this place was a complete luxury. Javier will take you to the bus station and help you plan trips aswell as help with Spanish homework!
I climbed the amazing volcano Cerro Verde, a 1 hour trek down through forest via steps then the same up the barren volcanic rock. Thankfully this volcano is not active like Pacaya and at the top there is just steam cioming out of the crater. My travel buddies, Jordan and John got absolutely soaked as the wind and rain set in just as we reached the summit. A great experience, but the hike back was insane. Jordan and John both having legs twice the length of mine, had me panting and wheezing all the way up those forest steps! However the fun started as we got to the top and waited for the bus...and waited...and waited! In the pouring rain and freezing cold we decided to follow the local people and try to hitch!!!
After about 2 hours we finally got in the back of a pick up with 2 couples, a family complete with sleeping toddler and a few blokes! the family driving were all snug inside their cabin, whilst the heavens opened. Such generosity and positivity of these people who shared their towel over our heads as we crouched in the back of this truck, laughing and sharing a cross cultural experience..the sleeping toddler was taken inside! Nobody complained, even the kids, who took it all in their stride! A few hours later we were safe and dry sharing a glass of red and home cooked supper in Javiers beautiful home!
A few days later i made my way to the beach at El Tunco...finally got some waves! For those of you that know my surfing ability...or lack thereof...will be pleased to know that these waves were ´Angel waves!´ Crumbly point break, consistently good for a few hours every day...got the buzz back!
I took a short trip the the incredible town of Suchitoto and its lake in the North. Its hard to imagine that this was guerilla territory and a major war zone...the town is so pretty and tranquil!
San Salvador is a lively busstling city where i was treated to browsing the biggest mall in Central America. Didnt buy a thing but it was great strolling around feeling semi civilised and having a girly coffee!
Dont skip El Salvador...its wonderful!

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