Adios Cuba

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After a full month in Cuba we were ready to head for home...but always in the back of our minds were the worrying memories of the very difficult outbound sail.

We knew that the further we went into April the less likely we would have to deal with north winds... we would be heading due north.

We left Marina Darsena at 8.30am on Saturday 13th and dropped anchor just south of Miami at 2.20pm the next day. The return trip was much, much better ... fair winds and gentle seas (well, mostly!)... but a long haul for us; 180 nautical miles, 30 hours; overnight.

We dodged 5 cruise ships (actually they dodged us!) and several freighters.

The Gulf Stream gave us a good boost when we found it off the Florida Keys...pushing us along at 8, 9 even 10 knots.

After surviving a nasty thunderstorm packing lots of lightning strikes and 50mph winds, we checked into Homeland Security in Lake Worth only to be told that they would not be giving us a cruising permit (for next season) because we had defied the US embargo on Cuba. This was stunning news as Lorbas had been to Cuba 2 years ago and was granted a permit from the same office.

We have learned that there is no consistency from one office to the next.. often we were given contradictory information.

Our season ended on a disappointing low note as the engine quit in the Waterway as we were heading to our haul out marina for summer storage...we had to be towed in, then started to take on water... no fun at all!

BUT, we sailed more this season than the past 5 combined!

Gust O'Wind is now stored in the Hinckley yard in Stuart, for the summer.

We will return in October to begin preparations for the long haul back to Canada. We'll deal with the cruising permit then.

Adios!

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Photos

Casa buddies
Probably celebrating finding seats and paper in the toilets in their rooms

Che memorial
there is an impressive memorial to Che Guevera at Santa Clara, the site of his decisive battle victory to end the revolutionary war in 1959

Cuban waratah?
or maybe a protea?

At sea
This pic of us taken from Lorbas captures some of the feeling of being "out there" in a small boat on a big ocean

Silver Lining
We were stunned to return to the marina one day to find this 105 foot boat at the dock.
5 crew including a teacher for the 2 young children aboard.
Chris, the Canadian owner and wife Vicky were great, hosting 2 Happy Hours aboard and showing us over this amazing boat.
Google it for details of its building and features. He is heading to his hometown of Thunder Bay. The mast has 6" clearance under a bridge over the St. Lawrence River.

Trinidad
one of Cuba's 3 World Heritage cities...smaller than Havana and, we thought, more charming

Janet
Our guide for the trek through the forest...spoke excellent English; introduced himself "as in Janet Jackson, but I'm nothing like her!"

Varadero
this beautiful beach was just a short walk from the marina

"Dixie Destiny"
Cody relaxing with his 10th or so beer of the morning and recovering from his horror crossing from Marathon the day after us...he said at times there was 2' of water in his boat...bet he didn't spill his beer!

Marina Darsena
Would have been a fine marina when it was built, but now sadly neglected and run down.

Debbie's table
Most late afternoons the Marina inhabitants gathered for Happy Hour here. Visiting boaters carve their boat name into the table...Lorbas and Gust O'Wind are there

Don't buy a Geely!
Our rental car was an almost new Geely...a Chinese made piece of junk. Our Casa host laughed at it and made the same comment, in Spanish. In the shed is a '58 Ford he is restoring

Mr. Ugly
There are plenty of ugly dogs in Cuba but this was the ugliest we saw....at first, we thought it was a pig

with host
Rick & Donna enjoying vino tinto and Cuba Libre with our host at the first Casa in Soroa

Alluring
taken from a rolling sailboat at 2am on our homeward leg...this is "Allure of the Seas" 100,000 tons, 5000 passengers and doing 22 knots on her way to Ft. Lauderdale...and the duty officer, on his VHF radio asked "on which side would you prefer me to pass you?"

Santaria
Cuba's #2 religion behind Catholicism, described as a less scary form of Voodoo...new members must wear white for the first year...seen here walking the cobbled streets of Trinidad

paladar
a new concept in Cuba...privately run family restaurants...State licensed, and the State gets about 60% of the 'take' just like the Casa Particulars...service, food and prices are generally better than in the State run restaurants

capitalism at work
a colourful collection of peppers and veggies for sale by a farmer in Vinales...not permitted just 2 years ago

squeezed in
Silver Lining has bow thrusters fore and aft so she was manoeuvered in sideways...the only way she would fit on the dock.
One of the many impressive features: the transom (stern) lifted up hydraulically to reveal an enormous "swim platform" from which kayaks and a runabout could be launched; and a cavernous workshop with power tools and enough spares to stock a West Marine store.
Another stunner: the master suite has a full shower with an amazing etched glass enclosure AND a full sized bath tub made of polished mahogany!

watercart
in Trinidad...fetching water for home use from the truck

Vic's trim
Marilyn giving Vic a trim on the dock...a great couple from Newfoundland...he insisted on calling me "my son"...took me on what felt like a "Tour de Cuba" on a borrowed bike to find a bottle of 'discounted' wine

bean soup
enjoying the first of 4 courses at the second Casa Particular in Vinales

tow
nothing dignified about being towed...the engine quit on the final leg (thank goodness not halfway from Cuba!) and we had to be towed to the marina for haulout

heading for home
taken from Lorbas shortly after leaving Cuba...a beautiful sail...the memory of the season I want to keep!

Comments

[Garry Rasmussen]

Home to the 'palace'
Another great set of photos - looks like a truely memorable experience - home at Sauble will feel like a palace & you'll probably view your loo with more appreciation. Love from Jan & Garry

[annabelle]

Hello from Grenada, Wonderful to hear and see the photos and read of your journey, most enjoyable.

[Brian McGhee]

Trip of a Lifetime. Welcome Home.

[Anne]

Hi Marlene and Ian, overall, despite some setbacks, would you say it was a positive year? Seems like you experienced some amazing adventures and I'm glad you are safe and well. xo's Anne

[imras]

overall
Yes, Anne...the stress was a little over the top at times but we accomplished a few checks on our 'bucket list.'