Cuba, Part Dos

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We spent a month in Cuba; took several side trips and rented a car for 4 days to explore the region west of Havana.

My impression is that Cuba is beginning a "quiet revolution;" farmers, fishermen and small time businessmen are getting some opportunities to experiment with free enterprise. The black market rules. Everything "falls off the back of a truck" if you know where to look.

There are 2 currencies. The tourist CUC is worth roughly $1... the 4 of us wilted one afternoon and headed to the air conditioned state run marina restaurant....8 beers and 2 Cuba Libres later the bill came to 12 CUC.

The Cubans use "nationals"....24 to the CUC...a dozen bananas in a farmers' market cost 5n or 20 cents.

Beggars and touts are a nusiance at tourist sites (such as the Che memorial) ... children are trained to lead the way.

The average Cuban works hard to exist. One of my favourite pics, and memories of Cuba, was watching a farmer behind a team of 2 oxen hand plow a small field over 2 days.

Officials are everywhere. There is even one dressed in yellow to monitor and organize hitch hikers (who congregate at intersections and on ramps.)

As usual, the pics tell their own stories.

One final installment to follow

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Photos

uno peso por favor
this enterprising gent will pose for a pic...I snuck in a freebie

Cienfuegos
This is a World Heritage city.... it has some beautiful pre revolution buildings

handyman special
this fine old building needs a little TLC

Trinidad
we loved this city...very wealthy in the days when sugar cane was a profitable crop

cigar maker
if we smoked, Cuba would be like heaven....Vic, a fellow resident of Marina Darsena, took up smoking cigars at 65!

our dock
and home base for a month...that's us with the dinghy astern, second from the left

pina colada
we always seemed to be in search of the perfect pina..this one was excellent, ignore my grimace!

forest trek
we worked up a good appetite on a 3 hour 'bushwalk' with an excellent Cuban guide...here Rick, Donna and Marlene are carefully crossing the creek

casa particular
A great way to meet Cubans and see how they live is to stay in their home (casa) and eat with them. For about 25 CUC you get a room with private facilities, full breakfast, and pay about 10 CUC more for a 4 course dinner. A great experience.

my dinner!
lamb was one of the options for dinner so of course I ordered it (mid afternoon) not thinking that a sheep would be slaughtered, skinned and butchered just for me...it was the meal I enjoyed most in Cuba...yes, the hammer played a role in the butchering

our casa room
after 3 months aboard and doing a backflip to get out of the V berth, this bed looked awesome! So did the toilet, with seat and paper (not commonly found in Cuba)...WOW!

dry stonework
Arthur will appreciate the stonework in this wall at our first casa particular

Cuban shower
we came across these showerheads often....wired in for 'instant' hot water....sometimes you got lukewarm, sometimes not

honeysuckle in Vinales
Vinales is small town just east of Pinar del Rio (see map) and very rural and scenic...this honeysuckle was just buzzing with tiny Cuban hummingbirds

all horned up
this big boy can barely reach the grass because of his enormous horns

cigars rule
despite the US embargo, the Cuban cigar is still the most prized; even by Americans. Maybe the handpicking and patient care are the secrets...this thatched barn is for drying the cigar tobacco leaves

drying tobacco
Marlene and Rick in the barn...some leaves stay here for 3 years

# 1
my favourite memory of Cuba; taken from our room in Vinales.
The farmer called out to his team, almost in song, at the end of each furrow....they turned together and slowly made the journey back.
We watched them, fascinated; very calming and almost spiritual.
It took 2 full days to plow this small field

Cuban taxi
it looks more like a prison bus, but a cheap way to move many people around

hop on
not sure who rode this beast into town...but he was carefully parked

courtyard in Matanzas
hidden behind derelict front doors were many beautiful scenes such as this one

Cuban cut
Great haircut on the barber's front porch; $3.... probably double what a local would pay

Che tribute
You don't have to understand Spanish to get the gist of Fidel's words.
Che is a cult hero in Cuba...you see his face everywhere

In Varadero
It seemed that every 3rd or 4th car we saw was a classic...lovingly maintained, but often belching black smoke

Cuban alarm clock
trouble was, he thought we should be awake at 4am!

touristas
enjoying the panoramic view above Matanzas

Comments

[Anne Robinson]

Hi Marlene and Ian, I had to laugh at you appreciating the big bed and personal facilities. Frank Bell has been going to the Havana area for many years, twice a year, and stays in a private home. He loves anything Hemingway and Cuba in general. xo's Anne

[Lorraine Runstedler]

Book?????????
When is the book coming out - I want it autographed - seriously - following that dream of yours - I can still type if you need help(haha) - you two are just too awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!xoxo

[Garry Rasmussen]

Sunny Cuba
"Take me to the April sun in Cuba, oh oh!" That song lyric by Dragon often popped into my head when I thought of you two visiting Cuba, in April. Looks like you had a wonderful experience (except for the toilets & showers). Great pics. Happy birthday for Thursday, Ian. Love from Jan & Garry