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Published: January 2nd 2016
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Traveling to Cuba Traveling to Cuba for tourism is still illegal, however; the state department now allows travel to Cuba for 12 categories of traveler, all of which are self licensed. (http://travel.state.gov/content/passports/en/country/cuba.html). We traveled for journalism, including photo journalism. A few facts and logistics to note:
- We traveled to Cuba via Cayman Islands.
- We self licensed our visit.
- We did not get (nor it is required any longer) to get a prior approval from anyone.
- Cuba welcomes US citizens and you can get a visa in Cayman Islands, on the way to Cuba, via most airlines or in the Jose Martin airport.
- They stamped our passport at Jose Martin airport, Havana, Cuba.
- Upon returning to the US, we filled out the customs form and noted countries visited as Grand Cayman Islands and Cuba. Nobody along the way hassled us, everyone was polite and welcoming on both sides.
12/19 Grand Cayman Islands We woke up early and flew directly from Dulles International Airport to Grand Cayman Islands. This will be the third time we've been to the Grand Cayman, twice before with work and now
just the two of us. Funny thing is that every time we stay at the
Grand Marriott on the north wing. Good hotel with a very nice lobby/restaurant renovation recently. We had a very nice dinner at
Casanova restaurant - It has good reviews and many locals also go there. I didn't take this photo, but it's a very nice one of the restaurant. http://www.dirkwestfall.com/around_town.html#
12/20 Cuba We flew with Cayman Airlines to Jose Martin Airport. Once we arrived we were ushered into the first of many long lines where our passports were stamped. There was a Soviet feeling to the airport and immigration. Once we made it thru the passport control, we collected our luggage where the process was hectic to say the least. Several luggage carousels with no idea of which flight belonged to which one. It was amazing to see how many TVs, DVD players, computers, and other electronics people were bringing in. This is because the tax at the state run electronics stores are so high.
We stayed at
Santa Isabel hotel (http://www.hotelsantaisabel.com/about_us.asp). It was nice in some way...it was quaint and felt relatively unchanged in the last 50 years or so. There
is only one hotel that is on par with nice western hotels (Parque Central). Nonetheless, it was Christmas time and despite the $300/nt cost we were happy to have a place to stay. For the 3rd night we didn't have any place to stay, so we would need to make some accommodations over the next two days.
Internet Note - Internet is sparse in Cuba and is mostly reserved for select government officials, university staff, and a few hotels where internet cards must be purchased. It also appears that there is only one network - and sometimes internet goes down for several hours on end...not just at one hotel, but the whole island. No cell phone coverage for ATT, but I heard Verizon just made a deal. I assume it's voice only.
In the evening, we went to
La Floridita, one of the many places where Ernest Hemingway left his mark. We were told they had the best drinks in town. We thought they were good (maybe our expectations were set too high?). Ambiance is great though!
La Guarida restaurant - We had dinner at one of the nicest restaurants in Havana. It was once again quaint.
Beautifully restored building, great ambiance, but dishes, glasses, etc...didn't match. Food was OK especially given the steep price tag. I'm finding Cuba is not the place for fine dining. If this is what you want I'd recommend french quarter of St. Maarten.
12/21 Cuba We had a
classic vintage car tour with Fabio. Highlights:
• Saw U2 spy plane that was shot down during Cuban Missile Crisis along with some other cold war long and medium range rockets that were pointed at the US.
• Our tour guide's father had Internet so this is how he communicated so quickly and easily.
• Spanish, English, French, Americans, and Cubans had fought for centuries
• Havana was founded in the early 1500s. Since then it has seen growth and prosperity, wars and death, disease and dictatorship, trade and isolation..... all during different periods.
• Like every other country there is a Chinatown. Chinese men mostly, came to build railroads, but it's said they did not "mix" (have kids) well with the Cubans and they are mostly gone now. Now there is just a gate, not to much different then the one on H ST NW DC.
• Vintage cars everywhere is a distinct cuban
feature.
• Christ statue is made of marble. The statue faces Havana in a blessing position. Cubans joke that Christ's hands position can also be a position of holding a mojito or/and a joint.
• We spent a decent amount of time shooting (photography). You can't go wrong taking photos of beautiful cars.
In the evening - second day of average food -
La Palader de los Mercaderes. Even though featured on trip advisor, lonely planet and other tourist guides, the food seemed like it could come from Trader's Joes. Damage (no wine)- about 40 euros. Waiting time for the bill - at least 15 minutes. At least they gave us a free shot of rum to apologize.
12/22 Cuba We had a very busy day filled with the following activities:
•
San Jose art market - interesting collections of various local artists. For anybody with imaginative mind - definitely worth a visit!
• Moved to a private house (called
La Casa in Cuba). 45 euros a night for a very basic room. We'll take it!
• We spent good chunk of time taking photos of vintage cars, Cuban flags and
Malecon (beautiful boardwalk).
• Went to a local
eatery -
Taberna del Pescador - recommended by a local. 25 pesos for probably the best lunch so far. Finally, we had a Cuban dish - la ropa vieja - which is essentially shredded beef. Good home style cooking.
• Dinner - pretty bad (we don't even remember the place!). We were seated only to find out that 70 percent of the menu is not available. We had chicken, beef and shrimp choices. Beef was bad and Maria fed most of her shrimps to local cats under the table. 15 pesos damage. As always - gotta wait 10 -20 minutes once you ask for the bill or change or both.
• Finished evening with
Buena Vista Social Club with a couple of original members of the group. Really fun evening. Matt showed off his dancing moves with a local dancer during the performance. She asked him to dance again! Maria did a little dancing as well with a male lead dancer.
12/23 Cuba Matt went to the Malecon to see the sunset and returned early this next morning to photograph the city skyline, lighthouse and fisherman. While Matt was enjoying his sunrise, Maria was struggling to sleep through her morning
because of an annoying rooster which was going off every 20 minutes for about 5 minutes of rooster screaming.....and that lasted 2 hours. Wonderful morning!
We ended up purchasing a painting by Justo Amable. He paints imaginative scenes of Cubans escaping Cuba.
A local who helped us find a room for one night -Carlos- also set us up with a beautiful classic vintage car (driven by another Carlos) to get us to the airport. What a way to say good bye to Cuba.
Airport security on the way back - no problem. Maria was all smiles and giggles when she was going through immigration to show a friendly tourist face. All you need as a girl - no able espanol. Lo siento. And a big smile.
12/24 Cayman Islands • Christmas Eve was spent waking up at the
Grand Cayman Marriott. • Swimming in the pool and on the beach along with a great sail on a Hobbie Cat.
• Excellent fish tacos at the hotel bar.
• Flight to NYC this evening.
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