Heavily laden with our three heavy bags, as well as the supplies we had purchased at the local market, the simple, flat bottomed, wooden boat made its erratic and precarious way through the rapids of the Skrang river to our destination, an Iban longhouse. It was a beautiful journey; as the boat swung from one side of the fast flowing river to the other, dodging logs and shooting rapids, I leaned back on my rucksack and watched the leaves and branches of the overhanging tree's as they flashed past above me. The sunlight hitting my eyes like a strobe light and the constant soft thwapping of waves against the hull was strangely hypnotic, so I half believed I was dreaming when four giant Hornbills flew across the river, their magnificent beaks and huge tails making them
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