After Antartica, there was only one way to go, so after a final night out in Ushuaia (which meant not everyone made their early morning buses), we headed north to El Calafyate. Thanks to Aerolineas Argentinas habit of resheduling flights, our 1 o'clock departure was moved to 4, meaning we arrived in the town slightly too late to make it worthwhile to take a quick trip out to the Perito Moreno glacier (despite the valient efforts of the taxi driver to presuade us otherwise). No big deal, we saw plenty in Antarctica, and can always come back another time. I'd heard lots of negative reports about El Calafate, so arrived with low expectations of the place. However, it wasn't the nightmare I expected. Undoubtedly, it's a very strange little town, solely grown to serve the needs
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