I love travel & trekking, especially in the mountains, and have been fortunate enough to complete several high altitude treks in the Swiss Alps, the Andes and in the Himalayas. Most recently I trekked on the Annapurna Circuit crossing the Thorong La Pass at 5416m, my highest altitude point so far! I also really enjoy visiting places off the beaten track for tourism for example Guatemala and the Solomon Islands. I also have a total love affair with India and Nepal and am always thinking of plans to get back and see more. I work, save, travel then do it again!
Today we arrived in Pokhara after a long journey from Jomsom via Beni! It's difficult to describe just how weary and dusty and tired we felt after spending so long in one of the local buses. To be fair they are entirely comfortable, have plenty of fresh air in and out of the windows and there is a lot going on to be entertained by. The general slow speed of progress with the seemingly fast speed on precipitous turns in the highlands do make for a long journey though despite the entertainment from the bus driver, conductor and various radio stations. Beni is a sort of transport hub in rural Nepal. We stopped there briefly for lunch in a cafe about which, I must admit, I had suspicions regarding hygiene. The flies were persistent they were
... read moreToday was the last trekking leg of our journey. Due to the rescheduling as mentionned in my earlier blogs , we didn't have time to complete the whole of the Annapurna circuit so our plan was to trek to Jomson, then drive to Beni from there we would make our way back to Pokhara, spend a day or so there and then fly back to Kathmandu. We rose and had breakfast in Muktinath with a overly friendly cat and then hit the road, initially just as far as the local Gompa. This had several different types of buddha in the form of golden statues. This place had the feel of a real living, breathing gompa and as we left we found many buddhist locals circumnavigating spinning the hundreds of prayer wheels outside. The views from such
... read moreAt what felt like an unearthly hour our alarms went off and the adrenaline kicked in. This was it, the crossing of the Thorong La. I know that Clarisa and I both had our worries that we'd be up to the challenge but once you're this far, there really is no backing out! I'd been pleasantly surprised with my performance on the mountains so far but as we got up and dressed in the freezing cold I must be honest there were certainly plenty of nerves about making it! I was also slightly concerned that Clarisa wasn't eating much. Aside from lethargy (and this was only at the end of a day trekking) and loss of appetite she had no other symptoms of altitude sickness so we encouraged each other that although we had the high
... read moreWe left Manang after another pretty cold's night sleep. The snow had fallen quite heavily over night and the quilts left out on the balconies of the tea lodge were not just still wet, they were now a bit crispy too!! Without something as sophisicated as a thermometer we guessed this meant the temperature was now below freezing! We packed up, forced down a filling breakfast of tea and pancakes, eating is more like stoking an engine than an enjoyable activity at the moment. We loaded up our bottles with as much boiled water as we can carry and were ready. We set out at a nice steady pace, as we knew we didn't have far to go. In terms of distance we could reach Thorong Phedi today, the altitude dictates that we must take an
... read moreToday I woke up to the most fantastic view I have ever had on my way to the bathroom! Gangapurna sat there huge, pristine and white and I couldn't help smiling to be this deep in the Himalayas, effectively sandwiched between Gangapurna (7454m) on the west side and Chulu East (6300m) on the east side, amazing! The sun was blazing down on us and there were clear blue skies! Magic! Only problem was it mine and Gansa's turn to get the shits! We both drank cold lemon drinks on arriving yesterday whilst Clarisa sensibly stuck with tea so this may be the culprit! Either way feeling glad we're not straight on to Thorong Phedi today! Without going into specifics I was fairly sure this was bacterial and opted for my course of ciprofloxacin earlier than I
... read moreIt took us some time to get going today after a bitterly cold night at Lower Pisang. We woke early and drank several cups of hot tea to warm up. I decided that since the cold was getting serious I would revert to porridge for heat and energy. It came with chopped up apple throughout it for flavour which is good because otherwise it would just have been hot and flavourless! Maybe the altitude is affecting my taste? Anyway with what felt like a lead weight in my stomach we pulled on the boots, now looking suitably walked-in and dusty. I think I may have damaged a toenail on my left foot and have a blister on my right heel but other than that my feet are holding up pretty well. Clarisa's are fine too, she
... read moreWe woke to the sound of the Marsyangdi river thundering down the valley and a repetitive creaking from the suspension bridge . It was a damp, overcast morning and the cold was creeping in to our room and looking out from our window I could see a large group of army men jogging across the bridge in just thin army uniforms and big heavy boots. They must have been frozen but were smiling and waving as they passed, wow these guys must be tough! We had breakfast, Clarisa's stomach is now fully recovered and she is making up for it, it seems by eating as many eggs as possible! Our trek today took us up through Bhratang (2950m) and Dhukur Pokhari (3200m) to Pisang at 3240m and what a day it was! The mountain views were
... read moreToday we reached the dizzy heights of Chame! We both agree it is the loveliest place we've stopped so far, really has a Nepalese feel to it rather than just a stopover for trekkers although that is also true judging by the stalls and lodges we passed as we arrived. Today our trek started from Dharapani at 1960m and Chame sits up a fair bit at 2710m. The villages we passed on route were Bagarchhap at 2160m and Danaque at 2210m. The day did not start off too promisingly as poor Clarisa was unwell last night, vomiting mainly and feeling shaky. She thinks following the meal at Barbie's and was not able to keep her dinner down. Sonam our sherpa was extolling the virtues of coke (n.b. coca-cola!) for this, I think he is half right,
... read moreToday we left Jagat early after a quick breakfast and started out on a great day of trekking, not too strenuous and mainly through really beautiful surroundings. Initially we trekked amongst shady, sun-dappled forests through streams and alongside small trickling waterfalls. We crossed the river several times across bridges which inspired varying degrees of confidence with frothy, pale blue water crashing over the rocks below. Needless to say these tested Clarisa's nerves as she is not keen on heights, or moving bridges as she found out. The ones with gaps in or broken hand rails tested me too I must say! Later we came across steeply piled massive rocks making up the valley sides. It was here we encountered a large group of Chinese trekkers and we were all enjoying the great weather and tackling the
... read moreToday was our first day trekking on the Annapurna circuit! It feels amazing to be here and have started out finally after all the waiting and delays! Bhulbhule is a unremarkable rural Nepali village from which we started our trek from a small cafe. We met a couple of Australian trekkers, two French trekkers and one American guy who had just been right up to Thorong Phedi at over 4000m and then had to turn back due to altitude sickness. We listened to his story both trying not to look worried as he looked pretty fit and decked out with all the latest kit. His parting words,'It's all uphill from here!' weren't particularly comforting but then these are the foothills of the Himalayas, what do you expect?! The trail was initially a rubble covered road of
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