Kap Yaga

kateemarie



figuring out how to put my pen to good use...

and figuring out how to live in berlin and dakar at the same time, with a whiff of brooklyn...

and trying to somehow slow the pace at which my world is webbed...let us not forget how close we are...tug tug.





Travel Blog Posts


Praying for Politics

Published: February 27th 2012Africa » Senegal » Cape Verde Peninsula » Dakar
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kateemarie
February 27th 2012

While it is with moderate lightness in Senegal that i can throw around salaam aleikums, and with tempered righteousness that I can accept being banned from the inside of most mosques - it is with absolute sincerity that I nodded in accordance with the wish of many of my friends upon leaving: Please. Pray for Senegal. And every non-believer cell of me is… As like never before in Senegal, there is "political unrest" over what most consider to be the illegal candidacy of the current president (Wade) for the next presidential office term. As it is Wade himself who had made an amendment to the constitution capping a president's reign two terms - yet he now is running for a third. Will the people hold their president to his own decision and to their own constitution? ... read more



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kateemarie
February 12th 2012

part iv of iv ...lutte remixes the hi-tech and low-tech typical Senegal, there has been an accommodating of hi-tech into daily life, without total assimilation or even obvious leaning toward wanting to lead a hi-tech life. that is, tradition and african life live alongside the blackberry (at least for now). this lutte match was no different: a large generator kept the string of faulty bulbs glowing, along with a radio and speakers that were literally taller and wider than i. the dimly lit spectator benches had bright spots of cell phone luminescence. but to keep the mosquitos away? no sprays, no creams, no nets, no fancy t.v. advertisements about malaria or anti-mosquito products...but instead during pre-game, the field boys made small shell mounds, added sand on top, then a a few sticks, then lit a little ... read more



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kateemarie
February 12th 2012

part iii of iv ...lutte is a lot about multitasking in Senegal, one needs to adapt early to sleeping, eating, reading, writing, watching t.v., dancing and conversing all in the milieu of ten other people doing any one or two of these activities as well. there is little peace and no concept of privacy or consideration of others' physical or psychological needs that i have seen or felt. for better or worse in Senegal, life goes on around you, and yours goes on around others. loudly. absently. (as for when sex happens, i am still wondering about this...). until today, i had only caught lutte at its extremes: a) on the beach - where there is no expectation that focus be given to one set of two tiny boys sparring amid the array of beach hullabaloo ... read more



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kateemarie
February 11th 2012

part ii of iv like other aspects of Senegalese culture... ...lutte is slow, builds momentum, and takes as long as it takes, and ends on an upnote the pre-game time, though soundtracked with booming stereo music, started with bare minimum of lights and people and energy...but the evening slowly built in momentum as one by one fighters showed up, the decibels on the stereo were turned up, field boys began their duties, spectators filed in. no one was rushing. and it took as long as it took for the fighters to show up and the matches to get going. and when it did get going, it was like no other frenetic energy i have ever experienced at a sports event. and the round between two fighers? takes as long as it takes....but those last few seconds, ... read more



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kateemarie
February 10th 2012

part i of iv 'lutte' is the highly acclaimed and deeply beloved Senegalese national sport – and is essentially a traditional form of wrestling... ...and considering i don't even like the western world version of lutte, my enthusiasm for attending a local match tonight was driven only by curiosity...and a desire to break through my aloof attitude towards something so important to a country I love. and that I did. i normally catch lutte on the beach. often towards sundown, boys and young men begin their very casual, definitely unrefereed matches. having never bothered to inquire with friends, i still have no clear idea of what goes, what doesn't go, and what is considered below the belt. once in a while, I catch the other extreme of lutte: very professional and definitely refereed. these major matches ... read more



Chasing Abdoulaye 2 of 2

Published: April 30th 2012Africa » Senegal » Matam Region » Matam
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kateemarie
February 7th 2012

noir quatre: the next day, we head off knowing we shall finally reach Abdoulaye's...feeling already like pilgrims...as each day had become a bit more painful in various ways (all in all we ended up doing a 1,600 kilometer round trip! ...about 8 hours per day on the road for 7 days). being done with absorbing bumps for absent shocks in local mini-buses, and after passing up several massive, wobbling intercity buses and other smaller types of moving metal, i sauntered over to a gas station to talk it up with the pump guys to see about hitchhiking around these parts... as i did so, this bling suv rolls up. i nonchalantly prance over to the drivers window. a short exchange and me and samma jekker (my "husband") were piled into a cushy 4wheel crib. sped down ... read more



Chasing Abdoulaye 1 of 2

Published: April 30th 2012Africa » Senegal » Matam Region » Matam
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kateemarie
February 2nd 2012

heya readers...just posting the last 2 blogs that went unposted. but first some UPDATES (blog follows): Alhamdoulilah! for Senegal's peaceful elections - and now see what's up with Youssou! http://www.aljazeera.com/news/africa/2012/04/20124423740606908.html And please now put your focus and thoughts to Mali, not the coup, but rather to the insurgence of Tuareg rebels, allegedly paired with al-Qaeda fighters who have taken over northern Mali. I walked those towns and met those people and think of them now struggling for their survival, freedom and decency under the rule of the rebels and fighters. I'm trying to get a piece written on the refugees in Bamako, wish me luck, and keep updated: http://blogs.aljazeera.net/africa/2012/04/13/malis-fracturing-ethnic-divides (though unfortunately, this tells you nothing of the life of refugees, and those... read more



the fourth face of senegal

Published: January 25th 2012Africa » Senegal » Thiès Region » Mbour
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kateemarie
January 23rd 2012

...the fourth time round but lots of firsts! especially traveling with 2 friends, african virgins, AND vegetarians....yes! ...plus, i get to kiss one of said friends..at least when we're out of muslim public view. :) just a little foto gallery for now, more stories as they unfold and as i find better internet cafes! ... but let's say for now, in classic Kathryn style, i have discovered more connections between me and people here and there...bumping into folks in every way possible. groovy. oh, and chasing goats (and hunting peanut butter) and dreaming of camels and learning more wolof and some peulaar and getting ready to go off to a wedding in the bush. not my wedding, though. oh, and working a bit. thank you, technology. xo ky MORE FOTOS BELOW!... read more



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kateemarie
September 7th 2011

So folks, i am within hours away of going back to, or rather once again, returning, to Senegal, and thought i should at least give you the last few fotos. Minus any commentary. in september, i found myself, finally settling, after years, into which family, circle, language, social position(s) i feel comfortable with. let's see if that all goes to camel poo and see what happens this time 'round... ...los geht's! more pictures below...... read more



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kateemarie
September 1st 2011

i may have packed in my dreams of triple lutz combos, but reality has come from delusions of pulling off flying air stomping to the heartachingly brusk djembe and souku and kuku and a bagillion other west african beats. besides, i highly recommend falling on sand rather than frozen ice. not to say there's not risk factors...flailing the arms to the heavens til they beg for mercy, stomping til your kneebones seek safety in your fleshy thighs, rolling your neck in exorcism – inviting the modern day devil of migraine ...and, well, the high risk of being the laughing stock of the locals. who of course gather round...clapping and cackling i did get told by one of said onlookers that my bum looked like an african lady's. not sure if that's my new acquisition of loosened ... read more






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