There is a term used often in South America, describing the route that most westerners take as ‘The Gringo Trail’. This is an apt name and not wholly used with derision, as the places visited are, in most cases, definitely worth setting foot in. However, due to following the advice of locals and hostel owners, over the past few weeks I have often felt that I am well and truly off the trail, for I have not seen another westerner and the only English spoken is none. This was not intentional on my behalf, yet my Spanish has improved markedly over the past few weeks and I have seen and experienced some truly majestic things. Recently, I took a bus to the village of Cachi, located in the mountains of north-west Argentina. The words used to
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