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Published: March 23rd 2012
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I had read in my Lonely Planet guide book that most people extend their stay in Rio and often have to change their travel plans. I didn’t think that I would fall into this category, as all I wanted to do was see the statue of Christ the Redeemer and set foot on a famous beach like Copacabana or Ipanema. Therefore, I only booked four nights in Rio. After spending a week there and then returning for another week after my visit to paradise (Ilha Grande), I can’t help but acknowledge that I am indeed another glaring example of someone succumbing to the lure that Rio possesses to capture its visitors.
The statue seems to be visible from numerous parts of the city, but its imposing size can’t be fully appreciated until you are standing at its base, with all the favelas, neighbourhoods, bays and surging peaks of land spread out below you. The view of Rio is one of the more enchanting that I have ever seen of a major city during my travels. In fact, it almost seems absurd that such a large city was built in such environs, with hills rising sheer out of the ocean, dense
tropical jungle in abundance, which still does its best to overcome the buildings that have rudely invaded on its space, thunderous downpours of rain that cause entire sections of the city to wash down a hillside and the overwhelming heat which is kept close companion by its friend, humidity. Even the name is improbable, for the city is not located on a river, but a bay.
Yet there is a thriving city, complete with grand colonial buildings that have long since lost their layers of paint and plaster, with some just being a façade, behind which there is no roof or structure whatsoever. Graffiti is everywhere, from real street art to pointless tags. Going to the beach is hugely entertaining, purely for the people watching. Considering the amount of flesh on display when viewed from behind, it somehow seemed laughable that being topless is banned. People are more confident with their bodies here than I have ever seen before, regardless of their size. Whilst on the topic of size, I had to chuckle when I was on a bus the other a day and spied a sign that indicated I should give up my seat for the elderly, pregnant,
injured and, wait for it, the obese! Maybe if they did a little less sitting, then they wouldn’t be in such a state! That’s probably rather insensitive of me, but I had never seen such a sign before. Getting back on topic, I enjoyed my days at the beach, whether it be wandering the lengths of them or just drinking ice cold beer and cooling off between drinks in the water. On other occasions I went to waterfalls which are located in a national park at one edge of the city (Parque Nacional da Tijuca). To give you an idea of the density of the jungle, I could not hear a single car, just the water and the bird calls. Walking out of the park at nightfall I was also amazed by the insects which glow in the dark! It’s pretty cool to see them flying in the trees or moving along the jungle floor with their fluoro green sections lighting up the darkness.
I spent my time staying in the bohemian neighbourhood of Santa Teresa, identified by its colonial mansions, cobbled streets winding up the hills which lead away from all the sinful pleasures on offer in Lapa,
tram lines, sweeping views of the city and pedestrian steps intersecting the hills. One set of steps is particularly famous, known as the Lapa Steps to tourists. This set of steps has been tiled by a Chilean artist who goes by the name Selaron, a project which he began 21 years ago! He constantly changes the tiles, some of which he paints himself, others which are sent to him from people all around the world. He wants the artwork to be continually evolving and changing and vows to do this until his dying day. I loved it and went there four times.
I also spent plenty of time wandering around Lapa, where street parties are the norm. Every weekend the streets are closed to traffic and the whole neighbourhood becomes an open air street party. I wished that something like this was possible at home in Australia, but the offensive amount of regulations and laws would prevent it from ever being possible. When I mentioned sinful pleasures before, that is because spotting a prostitute is more common than seeing an ATM, hotels aren’t really hotels and the ones that are, you hire a room by the hour, plastic sheets
included in the price. Drugs, homeless folk, bars, good food, graffiti, culture and more are all present in Lapa. It’s a hedonist’s wet dream.
My favourite night in Rio took place at my superb hostel. One of the other reasons that I stayed so long in Rio was this hostel (Bossa in Rio), due to befriending the wonderful owners and just enjoying the ambience of spending my time relaxing and drinking in a renovated colonial mansion. The view from the porch of the front garden is quite tranquil, consisting of a descending slope occupied by tropical plants. There were even monkeys in the trees. I had previously mentioned to the owners that they needed a guitar, purely for selfish reasons as I hadn’t played one in far too long. To my utter surprise, they actually bought one! One Monday night I started playing on the front porch at around 7pm. Before long, this morphed into a jam session and sing-a-long until two o’clock in the morning. There were roughly eight or nine musicians present, including a famous singer from Bahia. With a multitude of percussion instruments, a guitar and a host of willing singers (some of whom were phenomenal),
the drinks and good times were flowing and I went to bed once again amazed at how music can bring people together.
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emily
non-member comment
traveling in rio, girl style
Oi mate, I stumbled across your blog, fortunately, and found it really resourceful and fun. Sorry that I am a stranger; I know that can be kind of creepy haha. Being that you just left Rio, I was wondering if you could possibly answer a few questions for a traveling American girl. I am currently staying with Australian friends in Curitiba (ironic) and am planning on doing some traveling before I leave. My plane leaves from Rio the first week in May and I hoped to do some touring (when in rio...) before I return home. I googled the hostel you stayed at and it sounded awesome... and ridiculously cheap and helpful compared to the competing hotels in Rio. I did notice, however, that it was surrounded by favelas. Do you think that it would be just as safe and enjoyable staying in that hostel, being the foreign girl that I am? Also, do you think I would meet any other tourists that would want to do some sight seeing/beach chilling with me? And, I thought of stopping in Sao Paulo before going to Rio. I do know some people, but they are friends of friends and am not sure if I will be able to stay with them. Would you recommend me stopping if I didn't have anyone to stay with? I would greatly appreciate if you answered. That would be so awesome and SO helpful. If you haven't left Brazil yet, then I hope you have a great end to your trip! :) Thanks so much! Emily