The bazaars of Thamel, the district in Kathmandu where we were staying, are definitely tourist-orientated. We'd been advised to head for this backpacker-friendly area but made it there ourselves, quite by mistake, and found our hotel to be right on the edge of Thamel. Shops along the narrow, cobbled streets sold all kinds of hippy clothes, jewellery and other bits and pieces. We were aiming for Durbar Square, site of many temples and palaces, but with no map or guide were just following our instincts. But it was a lovely warm day to be browsing the shops and searching the rooftops for a glimpse of prayer flags or some other indication of the location of the Square. Durbar Square came upon us suddenly, and we were charged 300 rupees each to enter (about two quid). Temples,
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