Right from the moment we entered Laos, we both noticed how it seemed in some way more similar to Africa and slightly less foreign than the rest of Asia. It may have been that we were really looking forward to the prospect of an upcoming 2 weeks of travelling in Southern Africa, but there were similarities. Most noticeable was that while we had hadly ever been cold in our trip, this was the first country where the air was hot and dry. We travelled under endless blue skies over dusty roads past grass thatched huts. As we rushed along the unsealed roads, dust was thrown into the air and onto everything by the roadside. Red dust, which where it is so typical in Africa, is said to be stained by the blood of years of battles. ... read more

It's amazing how quickly the political situation in a country can change. With a whole army of rioters keeping the Bangkok airport closed and the prime minister trying to fight against the calls for his resignation we had been keeping an eye on the situation in Thailand over the past couple of days. Our plan was to travel up the Andaman coast to Bangkok, but with stories of grenades going off in the airport being passed around the backpackers' cafes we were waiting to see how serious the situation was becoming. After checking the web and chatting to a few other travellers, we decided that the south was a pretty low risk, and hopped on a minivan across the Thai border to Krabi. One surprising spinoff of the political situation in the capital that did manage ... read more

One quick bounce through Kuala Lumpur, and we were back on a plane down to Singapore... well, actually just to the boarder town in Malaysia, Johor Bahru, from where we caught a bus across the boarder into Singarore. After nearly 3 months of travelling by old motorbikes, horse-carts, ex-army jeeps, minivans, 3-wheel motorised 'cars' and ancient rusting busses on some of the worst roads in Philippines, Borneo & Sumatra, we finally found ourselves cruising down the smooth, straight highway towards downtown Singapore. Briefly. Ten minutes into the country our bus chugged a bit and then rolled to a stop on the side of the highway. Our first breakdown of the whole trip, in Singapore! 38 frustrated Sinaprians and 2 laughing South Africans climbed down off the bus to stand by the side of the road and ... read more

We were dropped in Banda Aceh at a really dingy hotel. And for people who are used to paying $5-10 a night for a room, we don't have high expectations. We decided to rather look around for something else, but after 2 hours of walking, we were stuck with the one miserable option. It turns out that since Banda Aceh was one of the city most devastated by the Tsunami (you can see a passenger ship lying beached about 3km inland!) there has been a flood of NGOs to the town, and the prices of rooms and beer have gone through the roof. Our new low in accomodation not only lacked windows or any form of ventilation, but when I asked where the light switch was, the manager showed me how to drag a rickety table ... read more

The road that seemed to be lost in the tall maize fields would suddenly open up to vast expanses of brilliant green rice fields, the water reflecting the mountains and clouds surrounding them. Then, mingled amoungst the rice fields, small villages with satellite dishes on all the houses would spring up and as quickly disappear back into the thick farms. Once through the farmlands, the road wound back up and over jungle covered mountains again. Our chariot was a rickety minivan with tape along the windows, roof upholstery bouncing against the tin can exterior with all the bumps and potholes in the road. In the corners of the van, small blue strobe lights flashed to the beat of the music, the melody completely drowned out by the thud thud of the sub-woofer. So, although we've technically ... read more