Sumo73

New Ageism in Siberia Long before the soveits, the orthodox church or the Russian monarchy colonised Siberia, this land to the east of the Ural mountains was home to early Altaic people and Mongol clans. These tribes held old shamanistic religious beliefs, strongly influenced by the spirit of animism and sympathetic magic. It is perhaps therefore no surprise that my visit to Novosibirsk, the capital of Siberia, should have coincided with an exhibition promoting all manner of modern new age and spiritualist practices. The fair was held in a small modern office complex on Dimitrova Prospekt. The event was called Aeternum, and its logo was a single human eye set in a golden triangle. This eye adorned a giant poster hanging in front of the shiny yellow and black glass of the exhibition centre. The eye ... read more

Amateur Fight Night Dallas - Don’t Mess with Texas It was a close call whether the fighters in the ring or the spectators around the beer tents were the more hostile. I had only night in Dallas, but having spent the morning looking around art galleries and visiting the JFK museum (housed in the old school book depository building), I was feeling that this would be quite sufficient time in the city. I was therefore very happy to take up the suggestion of my host in Dallas (Jennifer) that we go to an amateur boxing contest to be held at the nearby country club. She explained to me that her friend, Kyle, was one of the boxers who would be fighting later in the evening. Since it was an amateur event, she also added that an ... read more

To Cartagena Then I Came - Sailing from Panama to Colombia There is no direct land route from Panama to Colombia. The border between the two countries is characterised by thick jungle and no road has been built through it. In part this is due to the inhospitable terrain, and in part it is due to a lack of political will from the Panamanian government, who feared that a road would cause Colombia´s civil strike to spill over into their own country. The region is called the Darien Gap and can be hiked with a guide in around 6 days. This is perilous, as the inaccssability of the area has made it home to bandits, drug dealers, and the Colombian revolutionaries known as FARC who have killed and taken hostages in the area in the past. ... read more

13 Days in Central America - By All Available Means Swift and easy travel around Central America is not an option. In contrast to South and North America, the regions land transport network is sketchy, undeveloped and certainly not geared to the requirements of travelling long distances. I travelled from Belize City to the border with Guatemala in the local chicken bus. These are old American school buses which have passed their use by date (and probably failed their roadworthiness test) in the United States. To brighten them up, most have been resprayed in garish colours with bright designs and artwork. This enhancement of the exterior does little to counter the fact that the seats and interior are designed on the scale of eleven year olds. In addition, there is no ticketing for the bus, so ... read more

13 Days in Central America - Belize City I received a rude awakening on my arrival into Central America. The journey from Merida in Mexico towards the border town of Chetumal had promised rain forest, sun, white sandy beaches and sunny blue sky. By contrast, the border crossing into Belize, was a militarised zone of barbed wire, roughly assembled shacks and piled rubbish beside the river. The customs official as I was leaving Mexico demanded 200 pesos for the pleasure of having been in the country, while the equally grumpy and officious woman on the Belize side informed me that I would be charged 19 dollars when I chose to leave. The weather closed in and the landscape became more featureless as I approached Belize City. Bundled out from the bus into the streets on the ... read more

Political Protest and Religious Zeal in Mexico City Travellers are generally warned to steer well clear of crowds and political gatherings. Such places provide many opportunities for the pickpocket or bag-slasher to make off with your belongings. Worse, if a protest of rally turns really nasty, you are caught up in the midst of an angry mob. The South American riot police are not known for their subtle handling of such situations or their ability to distinguis the innocent bystander from the rabble rouser or trouble-maker. It appears to be a peculiarity of mine that I will continually ignore such advice. And I am more likely to cross the street to find out exactly why people are standing there waving flags and banging drums, than I am to take steps to avoid the situation. In my ... read more

Motorcycling around the Sacred Valley, Cusco Cusco was the spiritual and administrative centre of the Inca Empire, which at its height before the Spanish Conquest included territories in modern day Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina. The remains of this ancient empire are spread widely around Cusco, and along the Urubamba River, also known as the Sacred Valley. The largest and most well known of these, Machu Picchu, can only be accessed via train; but the other sites are all easily within a day´s drive from Cusco. Although there are many car hire companies in the city, I had decided that the most exciting and stylish way to visit these sites would be on motorbike. There are a few motorcycle outfitters in Cusco, who arrange both guided rides and the rental of individual bikes for ... read more

Potosi Silver Mine - Health and Safety Bolivian Style Potosi silver mine in Bolivia was set up by the Spanish with slave labour in 1545. 465 years has not shown a great improvement in working conditions. A visit to the mine begins at the local market in the town. Here you can buy goods to help the miners in their work. For 10 Bolivianos (1 pound) you can buy them 2 litres of soda and a large packet of coca leaves. If you want, you can also buy them cigarettes (made from marijuana), alcohol (96% proof) or sticks of dynamite, fuses or nitrates to make the explosion more powerful. The mines of Potosi dominate the surroundings. They are located on the Cerro Rico (rich mountain) which rises up some 600m jsut beyond the outskirts of the ... read more

Sucre - A Children's Crusade I arrived in the Bolivian city of Sucre at the same time as the holy relics of a modern day saint. It was not my intention to do so, and I doubt it was his either. As I crossed the main plaza in Sucre beneath the tall trees and the stern gaze from the statue of the city's founder, General Sucre, I saw a large gathering forming in the far corner of the square. The crowd comprised mostly of school children between the ages of 11 and 16, as well as a few parents, locals and bemused tourists. A procession was forming along the street leading into the square. I could see several vehicles, flags and blue and white balloons all gathering together in the narrow road between brilliant white colonial ... read more

You Know You´re in Bolivia When (2).... 1) Police disperse political protestors with tear gas. 2) Your food is very tasty, but arrives 90 minutes late. 3) The military parade past the president with the goose-step. 4) You know your laundry has been done because it comes back wet and shrunk. 5) The arrival of a train is greeted with a great popular celebration including the ringing of bells and the blowing of whistles - presumably to acknowledge the wonder of the train turning up at all. 6) The peace of a Saturday afternoon in broken by numeorus jeeps circling the town carrying flags and making loud political broadcasts through large megaphones. 7) The jeep carrying supporters of the president´s party has a large picture of Che Guevarra on it. 8) Mothers carry their babies in ... read more