The jeep from Siliguri to Darjeeling took three hours. There was only the driver, myself and one other passenger. There were lots of uniforms along the road, and we were stopped several time, at roadblocks, where soldiers peered into the back of our vehicle. "It's funny," the Driver said the first time it happened, "it's almost as though they think we're hiding someone in the car." I found out later that some big cheese was on the run from prison in siliguri, and being hunted. In Darjeeling, hotel checked into, I went for a wander, to find something to eat. I sat on the terrace of a litte cafe, overlooking the Mall, planning what to do next, when I noticed that, inside the cafe, staff were rapidly moving furniture away from the windows. A waiter came
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