Sometimes you can spend ages psyching yourself up to do something. Then just as you're about to bite the bullet, Fate shows up, says "Scratch that, i've got a better idea" and you find yourself on a completely different path. I had big plans, a grand Slavic loop that would take me through southern Poland, Slovakia, Romania, Hungary, and back to Prague in time for New Year - I'd decided to ignore the minimal daylight and even more minimal temperatures and make the most of my freedom. First stop Wroclaw (pronounced Rock-slav), 70% destroyed during WWII and "one of Poland's most
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