Mondelay

In 2004 there were four or five what Europeans would classify as supermarkets in Kinshasa. Four years later, there are easily more than a dozen stocking every imaginable brand of imported wines and foodstuffs. It is a bit disconcerting to find things like Ecover detergents in Kinshasa (with the extent of pollution here there are much more effective ways of saving the planet) or the complete range of Cadbury’s chocolate (which I have never even seen in Brussels). The hic is of course the cost, with prices frequently more than double those in Europe. Nevertheless, this doesn’t seem to stop the up and coming Kinois and I have to admit that a trip to the supermarket is an experience in itself. Each aisle has a person responsible for stocking shelves and assisting customers in particular with ... read more

Countless hours are spent playing cards, yet cards are dealt and games are played in an anti-clockwise motion, cups and cutlery are always served on the left and locks frequently turn in unexpected directions. Must have something to do with life on the other side of the equator.... read more

Life without running water involves containers, basins and buckets. In general water is transported in 25 litre containers in carts, wheelbarrows, on heads or in taxis from communal pumps. This single water supply is used for drinking, preparing food, washing oneself, the house, children and laundry. ... read more

Breakfast in Brazzaville can be a surreal experience. The ‘Exotic Palace’ seemed quite a formal affair with tablecloths, while ‘porcelain’ and fully togged waiters. Initially I had the impression of stepping into a 1930s tea room, yet the contest between France24 broadcast in one corner and Celion Dion at the patisserie counter gave this place the truly African touch. Brazzaville’s business men were present en masse. One particular entrepreneur caught my attention, partly because of his meet and greet style (showed off too much, only new to the money and power circles), partly because his assistant was busy shifting files from his briefcase to the table. Thick wads of cash were openly passed around. I scan the room to find someone equally perplexed by the situation, but no one bats an eyelid. The lady next to ... read more

There is no culture of outsourcing. Every business is self-reliant, own electricity supply, security guards, couriers, cleaners. Supermarkets import all their own stock (i.e. no wholesalers), patisseries bake everything in-house, hotels have their own laundry service. The notion of economies of scale is absent, only self reliance ensures survival.... read more

Initial reaction of intense disappointment. Where has the city so revered by Europeans and Congolese alike been hidden? True, the coast with its Atlantic waves and golden sand (just like light brown demerera sugar) is stunning. Yet the oil rigs and Disney style resorts invade the beauty. There is an air of something perverse, although that could just be the presence en masse of macho, chain smoking oil rig workers who expulse an aura that money is power. 21 July 2008 I have seen the light. Driving down Avenue Charles de Gaulle at night with the illuminated facades of shops, restaurants, casinos and night clubs shows Pointe Noire in a new light. It almost seems like a European coastal resort - save for the drone of generators and accompanying stench of burning diesel. Yet once beyond ... read more

The notion of all humans being equal conflicts fundamentally with the Congolese notion of respect. Respect is intertwined with power and is derived through a series of hierarchies based on money, status and age. Children are therefore subordinate to their elders, even more so those from less well off backgrounds. Children are continuously hollered at to fetch water, run errands and serve elders. Someone who has ‘done well for themselves’ and who is comparatively better off than other family members financially enjoys a commanding position within the family. Yet the system extends to Congolese society in general. A successful businessman or politician commands extraordinary power/respect, while those living in poverty, working as house servants or street traders are condemned to the lowest place not only on the social and financial hierarchies but also with regards simple ... read more