Page 4 of LukeStableford Travel Blog Posts


Central America Caribbean March 19th 2010

We hitched a ride with the French/Canadian couple, Pascal and Marie, who had embarked on a trip from Canada to South America in a customised four wheel drive Land Rover type thing. We left very early in the morning to try and catch the last ferry that same day from La Ceiba to the Bay Islands. We were now travelling in style: reclining on a double bed in the back of the truck. The journey was smooth but interupted by a very slow border crossing to Honduras and numerous police road blocks. The Honduran police seem totally obsessed with paperwork (or is that the bribes which result from having incorrect paperwork). Consequently we arrived in La Ceiba too late to catch the last ferry and had to spend the night there. Early the next morning the ... read more
Tina and I
The Cay off Utila
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Flores Very early the next morning we hitched a ride to Flores with Milos, a Czech guy now living in the Virgin Islands who had hired a car to travel around Guatemala. We met him at Semuc Champey and again later in the lodge. We took the scenic route up to Flores, attempting to navigate through various unsealed and unsignposted tracks. We didn't really know if we were going the right way (although we pretty much were) and neither did most of the locals we asked. Eventually we were escorted by two policemen on a motorbike back on to the main highway. We did pass through some beautiful countryside, eat lunch in a village off the beaten track, and swim in a little river. The swim in the river was kind of funny as when we ... read more
Tikal
Tikal
Tikal - Me, Tina, Milos


Antigua Antigua is the former colonial capital of Guatemala, which was relocated to Guatemala City due to its position amongst three active volcanoes and frequent earthquakes. What were the Spanish thinking building a city here? Maybe the locals could have told them that if they weren't being attacked and exploited.... The city itself is very beautiful and appears impossibly clean and well preserved, and ordered for a city in Central America. Somebody told me that "The Book" describes it something like what a latin american city would be like it had been taken over and run by Scandinavians. I can't remember the exact quote... It is incredibly touristy and again there appears to be more tourists than locals. Tina really didn't like it here, both because of the touristy vibe and the high prices. I wasn't ... read more
Tina sick of the flyer people in Antigua
Our night out in Antigua
Volcans Agua and Fuego


We took a particularly bumpy and long chicken bus ride to San Pedro La Laguna, a village on the shore of Lake Atitlan. Aldous Huxley apparantly proclaimed that it is the most beautiful lake in the world, and in my experience to date I would agree with him. Lake Atitlan is the largest lake in Central America and is around 340m deep with a surface area of 50 sq miles. It was formed by volcanic activity and is surrounded by three volcanoes, mountains, and small Mayan villages. The water is a crystal clear turquoise, warm, and edged with rocky volanic slopes, a few beaches, and reed beds that support various species of bird life. We hired a canoe to explore the end of the lake close to San Pedro village, around the base of Volcan San ... read more
What a view!
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We crossed at La Mesilla at around midday and then caught the "Chicken Bus" to Quetzaltenango (also known as Xela). The Chicken Buses are old ex-US school buses which have been painted crazy colours and are now driven by crazy drivers. It is noisy, crowded, bumpy, and can be a bit frightening due to the rediculous driving. Luckily they are usually adorned with religious artefacts so we know that God is on our side and we won't be harmed ( ;-) ). There are several theories as to why they are called Chicken Buses: because people often carry all sorts of things such as chickens and other livestock; and because people are crammed in to them like chicken in cages (at least three people to a two person seat). Both seem appropriate. It sounds terrible but ... read more
Xela
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North America » Mexico » Chiapas February 28th 2010

From Mazunte we took a Collectivo (mini bus) to San Christobal De Las Casas, a charming colonial town nestled in the mountains of Chiapas. Chiapas is the most southerly region of Mexico, the poorest, and has a high proportion of indigenous people. It is apparantly quite similar to Guatemala as it is tropical, mountainous, covered in forest, and the people of the many different indigenous villages wear brightly coloured textiles. Chiapas is also home to the infamous Zapatista, a guerilla group justifiably fighting for the rights of the supressed and previously under-represented indigenous people. The state also froms the border with Guatemala, creating problems of drug trafficking, illegal immigration, and bandits. However, the entire area is crawling with the national guard patrols and roadblocks, which appear to have stablised the area and we felt quite safe. ... read more
The Canyon
Santa Rita - Tina and our hosts
Santa Rita - Eufemia's house

Central America Caribbean » Cuba » Oeste » Pinar del Rio February 9th 2010

After the hecticness of Habana I needed a few days to chill out. My couchsurfing friend David took me and another couchsurfing friend called David (a little confusing so I will refer to him as "German David") to visit his uncle in Pinar Del Rio. It is a region of Cuba to the West of Habana which is famous for growing tobacco, and also has beautiful countryside. David´s uncle has a farm just outside Pinar Del Rio town where he grows tobacco for sale to the government and subsistence crops. The land is owned by the government so in return for being allowed to farm rent free he has to grow for and then sell tobacco to the governement for rediculously low prices (despite being extremely valuable). The farm was fascinating: water was drawn from the ... read more
The Farm
Attempting to dig holes for banana trees
How it should be done

North America » Mexico February 7th 2010

I took the 15 hour bus journey from Palenque to Oaxaca - a beautiful colonial town further north surrounded by hills - and arrived 8am in the morning tired and bleary eyed and checked into a hotel. I had arranged to meet up with a friend, Martina, that I met in Habana and we spent the rest of the day exploring the city. Later that evening we met a local guy through couch surfing called Octavio and had dinner and beers with him and his friends at his house just outside of the city. Octavio invited us to stay with him for the rest of our time in Oaxaca so we spent the day hanging out in the town and then later in the evening, when he had finished work, we got a lift back with ... read more
Oaxaca
Pot making in Oaxaca
Octavio and Mother at his house

North America » Mexico » Quintana Roo » Playa del Carmen February 1st 2010

On Monday 1 February I flew from Habana to Cancun in Mexico, being the nearest point on mainland Central America. Cancun really isn't my sort of place so I got straight out of there to Playa Del Carmen, which is a smaller resort town about an hour away. Playa is more chilled out than Cancun but still extremely touristy and pretty expensive. It is in fact pretty much the opposite end of the spectrum from Habana: very commercial, full of western goods and shops, everybody speaks english, and full of mainly American and Canadian tourists. Having said that, it was great to be able to use the high speed cheap internet and go shopping for all the things I was lacking in Cuba. I met up with German David and two other backpackers, Francois and Hagit, ... read more
Elena, Gabriela, and me in Palenque town
Palenque Ruins
Photo 5

Central America Caribbean » Cuba » Oeste » La Habana January 25th 2010

You might be suprised to know ( ;-) ) that what I have mostly been doing in Havana is partying. However, it really is the thing to do in Havana as it seems that what the place is all about. It is afterall the home of Salsa and Reggaeton. There is live music everywhere, cheap rum, and the clubs and bars have a terrific atmosphere. I have been taking salsa lessons most days that I have stayed in Havana, and that´s one of the reasons for staying so long. I really got the bug for it and wanted to crack the basics until I could free dance fairly fluidly. After 11 two hour lessons, I´ve pretty much got the basics but still need a lot of practice with keeping time when the music is fast and ... read more
Casa De La Musica Miramar
Casa De La Musica Miramar
Couch surfer Ayleen




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