Pete Ellison

LobsterCheeks

These are the tales of a Small Englishman, wandering the world in search of adventure, enlightenment and the perfect curry



Travel Blog Posts


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December 23rd 2012

The next part of my journey would take me through the wind-swept plains and snow-covered mountains of Patagonia, and down to the End of the World. I had signed up to a 34 day overlanding trip with my favourite company, Dragoman. We'd be covering thousands of kilometres in a giant truck laden with camping equipment and outdoor cooking gear. The truck was called Elle, and she was a tough lady capable of driving over rough terrain. Our trip would take us into the true wilderness of Chile and Argentina. Our crew consisted of eighteen people of varying nationality, age and background. It was an interesting and eclectic mix of personalities, and over the coming 34 days we would get to know each other very well. We would become a small community where everyone has to work ... read more



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LobsterCheeks
December 18th 2012

My new favourite city in the world is the crazy, quirky, kooky, arty, twisty-turny, topsy-turvy city of Valparaiso. The whole city is built around a landscape of 42 hills, and looks like it was designed by either an eccentric genius, a very brave architect or a madman. The city is a maze of steep, winding streets that coil around the hills and climb up and down. The layout is random and chaotic. Getting from A to B is not intuitive, and you'll find yourself going via C, D and E in the process. If you look at Valparaiso on a map, it looks like someone threw down a bowl of cooked spaghetti when they planned it. Adding to the confusion, there is a rabbit-warren of side passages and stairs which link many of the roads. If ... read more



The Best Steak in the World

Published: January 22nd 2013South America » Argentina » Mendoza » Mendoza
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LobsterCheeks
December 11th 2012

It's official - I'm now a time traveller! I flew from New Zealand on Friday afternoon, was in the air for eleven hours, and arrived in Chile on Friday morning! I effectively landed six hours before I took off, and including flying time I had travelled 17 hours into the past. This wreaked havoc with my body clock, but also meant I got to eat six full meals in the same day, which is an unprecedented level of gluttony. Using this flight route, it would be possible to celebrate New Years Eve twice, once in New Zealand and once in Chile! Ten days ago I had been in Burma. On my way to South America I meandered through Singapore, Australia and New Zealand. A whirlwind visit in each country to catch up with old friends. A ... read more



The Fire Balloon Festival

Published: January 14th 2013Asia » Burma » Mandalay Region » Inle Lake
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LobsterCheeks
November 29th 2012

What happens when you put ten thousand people on top of a mountain, add copious amount of alcohol and then launch hot air balloons with fireworks strapped to them? The Taunggyi Fire Balloon Festival, that's what! Burma isn't a country I would normally associate with festivals. So I was surprised to learn of such a radical festival on a large scale. And nothing quite prepared me for what I saw. The town holding the festival was called Taunggyi, and it sits on top of a mountain. Getting there was quite an event in itself. To reach the town our truck had to climb up a series of switchbacks, and the road was packed with locals heading to the festival. Pickup trucks had a dozen or more people piled into the back. Minibuses had people crammed inside ... read more



The Temple of Severed Hands

Published: January 3rd 2013Asia » Burma » Mandalay Region » Bagan
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LobsterCheeks
November 27th 2012

In Burma, they love their temples. In fact, that's probably the understatement of the year. It's like saying that McDonalds sell the odd burger or two. The golden stupas are EVERYWHERE. On tops of hills, deep in caves, perched on rocks. Anywhere is fair game, and it's rare to find a hill or mountain without a temple on top. Imagine a conversation between a group of Buddhist architects: "quick lads, I've found an empty hill over here. Let's get a stupa built before someone else does". Some of the stupas are easy to reach. Some of them require hours of strenuous hiking, as a means of proving you're a dedicated Buddhist. I'd like to see the same principle applied to a restaurant in the UK. A Michelin-starred restaurant on top of a mountain like Snowdon. Instead ... read more



The Viaduct of Doom

Published: December 27th 2012Asia » Burma » Mandalay Region » Mandalay
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LobsterCheeks
November 23rd 2012

Our train to Mandalay was only twenty minutes late. By Burmese standards this can be considered extremely punctual. Some fellow travellers had faced a delay of EIGHT hour a few days before. I was lucky enough to have a window seat, but this turned out to be a mixed blessing. There was only one train per day along this line, which was not frequent enough (or fast enough) to carve a proper path through the surrounding foliage. The windows were open, so at lower speeds, you were slapped around the face by the occasional leafy branch. At higher speeds, the trees and bushes were sheared off, and so you were sprinkled with a flurry of leaves, flowers, insects and twigs. An hour into the journey and I was covered with bushy shrapnel, looking as if I ... read more



The Mountain Villages of Burma

Published: December 21st 2012Asia » Burma » Mandalay Region » Hsipaw
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LobsterCheeks
November 20th 2012

Whilst Yangon was entirely unremarkable, Mandalay seemed to be screaming out to be noticed. The posher districts had gone neon crazy. Why have a small sign saying Shoe Repair when you can have a five-metre flashing neon sign declaring SHOE REPAIR!!! Even the banks had a piece of the action and were lit up like Vegas casinos. Our hotel district on the other hand was all grime and dust, filled with old buildings without any style or charm. However, this brought certain benefits, because at night this area exploded with street food stalls. But these weren't just any street food stalls. These were major operations, with entire kitchens brought onto the streets, and chairs and tables laid out on the pavements. The food was also predominantly Indian. There were enormous vats of biryani, huge pots of ... read more



Big Brother is Watching You

Published: December 17th 2012Asia » Burma » Southern Burma » Mawlamyine
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LobsterCheeks
November 12th 2012

As a traveller in Burma, there were a few slight adjustments to make. Firstly, your mobile phone does not work, since there are no affiliate networks out here. Secondly, Internet is very scarce, and when you do find it, it's painfully slow and too frustrating to use. Next there is the issue of obtaining money. Nowhere will accept your credit cards and none of the ATMs will accept international cards. Travellers cheques? Forget it. The only way to get local currency is to change US dollars. Which means that you need to decide how much money you need for your entire trip, and take the whole lot with you in cash! Zena and I were planning to spend 20 days in Burma - how much would we need? We had to come up with a daily ... read more



Wishing You Auspiciousness

Published: December 14th 2012Asia » Burma » Yangon Region » Yangon
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LobsterCheeks
November 9th 2012

Burma, a country shut off from the outside world for decades. Filled with the most gentle and friendly people, yet ruled by a brutal military dictatorship for over sixty years. A country rich in natural resources, yet one of the poorest countries in South-East Asia. But now Burma is coming out of isolation and opening itself up to the world. Embracing technology and change, and hoping for economic progress, world recognition and a brighter future. The question of whether to visit Burma has been hanging in the air for years. The Military Government has a history of serious human rights abuse including conscripting children as soldiers, kidnapping civilians for forced labour, and using prisoners as human landmine detectors. Back in 1996, the government looked at the tourist industries of neighbouring countries such as Thailand and decided ... read more



Boar Hunting and Buffalo Fighting

Published: December 10th 2012Asia » Indonesia » Sumatra » Bukittinggi
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LobsterCheeks
November 7th 2012

As we headed to the town of Bukkittingi, we passed dozens of pickup trucks packed with men and dogs, heading in the opposite direction.. This was curious because it was a Muslim area, and I thought that Islam forbids people to even touch dogs because they are "unclean". (Maybe because they lick their balls. Although that's only to take the taste of the dog food away). I asked our driver about all these dogs, and apparently they are for hunting wild boars. It's not strictly permitted under Islam, but the dogs are kept because the boars damage the farmers crops. Once caught, the boars are not eaten by the men but given to the dogs as a reward. Whereas the hunting of boar was once a necessity, it has now become a national sport. Every Sunday, ... read more






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