Continuing our southerly route along the Peloponnese coast and through the Saronic Islands, we have been travelling considerably slower than our first 2 weeks. We have visited reasonable sized towns and found a few lovely bays, but not many. Old Epidavros is a safe harbour and nice town. While there we took the bus inland to the ancient archaeological site and the “theatre” which is very well preserved. Around the site 2000 year old buildings are being renovated to their former glory with EC money. Unfortunately, in many cases they are 90% renovation and only 10% original. Ka [View Full Entry]

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This summer we really hit the water running had no problems to delay us. We landed in Greece at 10am on Sunday morning. By the end of the day we had anti-fouled, polished and prepared for launching. We spent the night onboard still on the hard. On Monday morning we did a massive shop with our hire car visiting 3 different supermarkets - including LIDL and Champion. At 2 in the afternoon Freedom was launched and we loaded all our shopping onboard. At 8am the following morning we started our journey from the Ionion to the Aegean. 2 weeks and 215 [View Full Entry]

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After a pretty disappointing whale watch in California last year, it was with high expectation we handed over our money to go out yesterday. We weren’t disappointed. We were lucky to have a PhD student in Oceanography and an expert in Sperm whales as our guide and we learned all there is to know about these fascinating animals. As they stay in family groups and in the Caribbean Sea west of Dominica they tend to hang around for weeks at a time, it was a case of “if you see one, there will be more". It took 2 hours before the [View Full Entry]

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Emerald pool is the easiest falls and pool to acces with its own visitors centre and a short walk. This is one not to visit when cruise ships are in as taxi after taxi deposity passengers here. We had the place to ourselves and enjoyed a Tarzan and Jane moment swimming under the water fall deep in the rain forest. (This is apparently where Superman picked an orchid for Lois Lane in one of the movies) [View Full Entry]

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On the north east coast, the beach at Pointe Baptiste was a real find. From our Sea Cliff cottage it was a short walk down an overgrown track to this cute beach. We were the only people on it until a local woman called Fi came by after fishing off the rocks at the point.. Had a good ole chat to her about life on the island. We swam and snorkelled in the strong current. On the north west corner of the island is the excellent Toucari village nestled in it’s own bay. On a small cul-de-sac road with few tourists [View Full Entry]

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We are staying at Sea Cliff cottages in the north east and you can walk down a couple of hundred steps to the beach here. It’s black sand and the Hodges river arrives here, letting you swim in the sea then swim in the river to wash off the salt. We picked up a coconut and took it back, had to borrow a machete from our hosts to get in. It was pretty hard work hacking through the husk but we got there. Fort Shirley and Cabrits National Park are in very north of Dominica - one of those places on [View Full Entry]

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Just south of Portsmouth guides tout for business - to row you up the Indian River. Paul was our charming oarsman and he skulled the boat along like a gondolier in Venice. We left the partly constructed new concrete bridge behind and were instantly away from the real world. The river teaming with fish, mangrove and palms on either side, land crabs, heron and kingfishers on the banks. Paul showed us where the “witch’s house” was constructed for the filming of Pirates of the Caribbean and pointed out wildlife as we made our leisurely way up the river. The final destination? [View Full Entry]

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On the way to the trail we met Ben (from Paris) on the road. He had taken the bus from Portsmouth and was walking the few miles up into the interior until the nice English folk picked him up. The trail was simple and prepared, all Jurassic trees and unreal root structures. We were supposed to be able to see parrots but it wasn’t until we returned to the car park that we heard then spotted some. This was Dominica’s national bird, the Sisserou or Imperial parrot. Fantastic. We headed off with Ben to the falls and started our trek up [View Full Entry]

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For 3 days the police close 4 roads in a square through Roseau. The town is small so this almost closes the place to traffic completely. The timetable then goes something like… Monday 4am to 9am - Juvey: Music and dancing to see the dawn come. Not one for us! We arrived in Roseau around 9 and saw the aftermath, this is the start of Carnival and it looks like the morning after a bad party. Everyone looks drunk. These people know how to enjoy themselves. There is a lull and we watch the parade preparing to move off. Make-shift bars [View Full Entry]

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Next stop is a private cottage for a week, overlooking the sea on peaceful western cliffs. We can walk down to a black sand beach to a dive centre for lunch (bit of a shack), and we can sit on a cliff top terrace at sunset watching the pelicans soar by. Yesterday we headed into the interior to Morne Trois Pitons National Park with the intention of taking the hike to Middleham Falls - but the weather turned and we didn’t fancy 3 or 4 hours hiking in the rain. We went to the simpler Titou Gorge and loved it. After [View Full Entry]

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