Days 7 – 8: Irish Genealogy and History Crash Course It is hard to get out early in the mornings at Lawcus Farm. Anne-Marie presides over cooking, serving, and socializing with help and story telling from her husband Mark. Rob, their hired jack of all trades, comes in from work and adds to the conversation while he has his morning tea. An occasional cat or dog manages to sneak their way in and Mark brings out the baby hedgehogs that he is fostering until the tiny puffs of quills, fluffy heads and greedy mouths can go back out and survive in the wild. We begin this morning with a wonderful breakfast of Irish oatmeal, soda bread, poached eggs, and bacon—oh, and fruit , and tea, and homemade marmalade. It is warm and cozy in the sun ... read more

We awake to sunshine followed quickly by rain. Today we are taking a sad farewell from Landfall House and Margo and Donie. However, hilarity again abounds at breakfast and Margo is gloating because a particularly handsome guest has awarded her with a kiss on each cheek. Donie of course is giving her a terrible ribbing about it. and we leave Kinsale, still laughing, but sad that our first B & B stay is over. Well, since we are a bit sad and it is already eleven on a Sunday morning we really should take the tour of the Jameson Whiskey Distillery in Midleton, right? It is a fabulous tour and the air is permeated with the smell of whiskey, so that by the time we are given a rather healthy glass, we are rather desperate for ... read more

Day Three: Cork City to Kinsale We leave "Plastic Fantastic" Hotel--lovely reception however, I must send kudos to the lovely and helpful young international staff--- and set out for the unreliable and utterly ridiculous blend of our GPS, the Ireland Atlas with hopeless me trying to navigate, large rental car, small roads, the wrong side of the car and road, and sheer stupid luck. John is good at ignoring my small gasps and louder shrieks, as hedges and brambles whip the side of the car and we plunge into the occasional pot-hole. I now more completely understand how he broke Arabian Horses: patient determination. Of course we get lost several times: after travelling the US and abroad we know that we will get lost and have adventures which will most likely render the best stories of ... read more

Max: Today we are taking the train from Greenwich to the tube to start our day off in St. Paul’s Cathedral. We get there in time to visit and then for mass, which makes the experience all the more beautiful. The incense, singing, and the prayers make the cathedral come alive—it is not just a place to tour. Its life in the community is further told in stories of how civilians tried to protect the cathedral during the bombing of London and how thousands of people came here after the news of the 911 and the London subway bombings. Caitlin climbs the 372 steps to the Whispering Gallery above and I continue to marvel over the statuary below. We stay at the Cathedral for lunch and treat ourselves by bypassing the cafe and going into the ... read more

Max: English Breakfast at our B and B and Caitlin is in heaven: beans on toast! We will soon find that we are both in heaven because the early breakfast hour at Webster’s B and B has gotten us out the door and on the way early. Our plan is to drive to the furthest point, Avebury and then double back to Stonehenge and back to Salisbury for the Cathedral. Our route takes us past Stonehenge, right there along the road, and it looks virtually deserted. We quickly change plans, pull into the parking lot and are directed to the entrance. Our Great British History passes, which we have used extensively on this trip, send us quickly through the small line; we pick up our audio tours and find that we have caught a break. Ahead ... read more