Haikususie

We began our day with a stroll through Taksim square, past the monument of Atatürk dragging his countrymen into the future and down Istiklal street... a charming meander along a pedestrian street with shops, restaurants and at least 5 Starbucks. We decided to return to a belle epoch building with lots of restaurants to celebrate Steve's birthday. On to the small but lovely Kariye museum for a view of Byzantine mosaics on a small scale then on to Hagia Sophia to see things on a grand scale. My sister Amy joined us for dinner not realizing that the police might tear gas protestors including our restaurant. When the smoke settled literally, we walked the mile back to our hotel past cordons and busloads of polis, having experienced the discomfort of tear gas.... read more

We spent the day at Ephesus marveling at the restoration and all the tourists, many of whom more interested in selfies than history. The terrace houses of the wealthy are quite amazing--frescoed walls, intricate marble floors, and covered to protect from the elements. Maury was excited to see the amphitheater where St. Paul preached to the Ephesians. On our own for dinner, we tried Izmir's oldest seafood restaurant, Deniz. Not much English spoken but interesting to see a relatively affluent segment of Turkish society out for a weekend meal with family. Yes, there are babies and small children in restaurants at 9p.m. and women drinking raki and wine!... read more

At breakfast we are joined by my sister and her husband for a family gathering overlooking the Bosporus. The sacrifice holiday is over, few mackerel fishermen on the Atatürk Bridge and we start our day by visiting Rustem Pasha, a jewel box of a mosque beautifully restored and covered with Iznik tiles. The smaller sites are much more accessible and less crowded. We walk to the spice bazaar for a tutorial on saffrons, teas and Turkish delights. From there we bussed to the Grand Bazaar. It would take a day or 2 to figure it out and we had 2 hours. I was disappointed at the time allowed. Blue mosque in the afternoon. Funky restaurant near Taksim square. Lots of hooka smokers. A substitute for alcohol? Oops, forgot the Roman cistern and hippodrome yesterday.... read more

We finally have arrived! Is it Istanbul or Paris? Having been in India for divali, it seems that we are in Turkey for Kurban, a 4 day Muslim holiday of sacrifice and charity and lots of people and traffic. Light dinner of Turkish mezzah (like tapas) and sleep!... read more

Each entry of this trip to Turkey will be headed with haiku. I love connecting tissue, a common thread, a simple but thoughtful theme, and the challenge of poetry. But why start blogging a week before the adventure begins? The details of departure are exhausting...the mail, the bills, the luggage, the luggage tags, the newspapers, the prescriptions, the dog, the garden, the cell phone international plan, the volunteer responsibilities put on hold, and the right shoes...It's not easy packing light for three weeks and knowing that your feet will be appropriately shod for the Grand Bazaar, a night on the town in Istanbul, the decks of the gulet, or a hike to the baths of Cleopatra. Chartreuse Toms will be perfect for the gulet! Detail only starts with packing. It includes context: In the past 8 ... read more