Well, downtown Bangkok is living up to it's reputation. It's loud, dirty, vibrant with the pulse of humanity, and crowded with some of the kindest most tolerant of people. There are thousands of tourists on our street in historic downtown Bangkok, Th Rambutti, which parallels the famous backpacker's haven of Khao San Road. The entire street is not much more than open air restaurants, bootlegged goods, cheap trinkets, street cart foods, foot massage places (complete with fish pedicures and couches lined up on the sidewalk, and tour offices. Thankfully, the locals who work here have been so friendly and helpful. My first evening in Bangkok, and I choose to take a free shuttle over to the Aksra Theatre to see if I could catch a performance of the hun loo-ang (royal puppets). Alas, the theatre was
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