As on my first hike to the Lagunas de Piñan I had not found a good way down, and as Anibal had suggested a good return trip ending in some hot termas I went again to Iruguincho. Anibal had said the trip could be done in 2 days on horseback. As Anibal was not around, I found a local horse guide. It took some time to locate him and to get going, but finally we had gone to the pasture, he captured and prepared the horses and off we went. We did not go that far, though.... We climbed some steep [View Full Entry]

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The Camino del Inca (not to be confused with the famous one of the same name in Peru) starts in Achupallas, about an hour by minibus from Alausi. It is a 2-3 day trip along the remnants of an ancient Inca Road. As I left Alausi late, I could start the Inca trail only around 1 pm. During the first hour or two I was accompanied by a local couple who insisted to show me the way and carry my backpack in order to earn a few bucks. Initially I didn't want to, especially as the guy clearly had had some [View Full Entry]

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I had a stop over in Alausi. I arrrived late and was lucky to receive the last free bed in the last hostal in town... As there wasn't any early transport to Achupallas I had a few hours in Alausi, and they were well spent: I couldn't stop watching the amazing locals in their traditional clothes, walking around the shops and bartering at the market. [View Full Entry]

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The lakes of Atillo and Osogoche are located in-between Macas and Riobamba in a beautiful spot in the Sangay National Park. There is basic dormitory accomodation at Los Saskines in Atillo Chico. I went on a guided hike, together with a couple from new Zealand and England. [View Full Entry]

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Macas is a pretty remote jungle town. However, I liked it, as it is relaxed, has a nice climate - not too warm, not too cold -, lies inmidst rolling green hills and has good food and friendly people. My main purpose to visit was however (unrelated to the book project) a visit to a local Shuar family. I went to the family of Daniel Ayuy who live about an hour outside of Macas next to a river, in the jungle. It is a lovely family with 10 kids. Daniel told me that he had actually wanted a lot more kids [View Full Entry]

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It was so good to come back to warm, relaxing Banos. I stayed not long, just 1.5 days, but I went a couple of times to the Termas de la Virgen, had a delicious dinner at the Swiss bistro and a Chinese massage. I had a great chat with the interesting Chinese woman who told me about how it was for her as a Chinese living in Ecuador and about her time in Africa before she went to South America. She also made me delicious Chinese dumplings (for free!!!) and played the accordion. I then took a bus to Puyo, and [View Full Entry]

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El Altar is an extinct volcano on the western side of the Sangay National Park, 170 km south of Quito. The Spanish named it as such as it resembled a huge cathedral to them. The indigenas call it Capac-Urcu, which means "Great Mountain" in Quechua. El Altar is one of the most challenging mountains in Ecuador and has a total of nine summits, all of which have church-related names. El Obispo, with 5319 m the highest peak, was the first one to be climbed, in July 1963 by an Italian team. I never aimed to summit any of the peaks, as [View Full Entry]

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Ok, I thought for a while whether I should post this or not. I know now all of you will think I am even more crazy than you already thought I am. But first read and then think about it and then maybe you don't find it that crazy any more. I had been wanting to do that trek for a few months now and already in April had met the prospective guide, a national park ranger, who had been recommended by Patricio. However, in April he said the páramo was still too wet and suggested I call him again in [View Full Entry]

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Quito is a city of 2 million people. Admittedly, it is in a developing country. However, typically you don't realize it and there is plenty of whatever one might need. The fruit shelves are abundant with the most incredible exotic fruit you may ever have dreamt about. The supermarkets have literally everything you can buy back home. And there is beautiful artesania, medicinal plants, stolen cameras, heaps of cheap pirate copies of whatever CD or DVD you might dream about and loads of other things. But then, every once in a while the whole city all of a sudden runs out [View Full Entry]

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This famous trek from El Tambo (near Papallacta) is being described as one of the most beautiful treks in Ecuador. And I must admit it was special. And I was lucky with the weather. While on the first day it was still foggy, the weather cleared when we were just in front of Antisana, and it was amazing when its snowy face, towering above Laguna Santa Lucia, opened just when we were sitting there for a break. And above all, a couple of huge condors were circling high above. The next morning was even more amazing. After a freezing cold night [View Full Entry]

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