Ho Chi Minh City, Quang Ngai and My Son (My Lai), Vietnam Different Perspectives Newsletter August 24, 2008

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Dear Patrons,

Welcome to our news letter. The Staff at Different Perspectives try to bring a clearer picture of current events effecting China and Asia. Although we believe the international media driven primarily by the western world's interests is bringing the public events as they happen we at Different Perspectives are independent and non biased without an agenda for prestige or monetary profit.

We simply feel the western world may be somewhat isolated from news that is local to our office here in my Beijing, China. We hope you enjoy the news from a different perspective. __________________________________________________________________________________


Sunday August 24, 2008
Hoang Yen Hotel Rm. 102
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Had coffee this morning with with my local Vietnamese friends and met a former South Vietnam Soldier. My former North Vietnamese (Vietcong) friend was there along with another gentlemen who's daughter is attending Washington State College in America.

Also a local Ho Chi Minh City Policeman. We all had breakfast of rice, vegetables, meat and a fried egg. The gentleman who's daughter was in college paid for everyone.

He was jovial man, who acted as my interpreter, from time to time. The language was almost impossible for me to understand and he didn't speak English to well hence the translation was very sporadic.

Another pleasant experience of kindness that I've witnessed over and over again in SE Asia. After breakfast I returned to my guest house to start planning my trip up the coast of Vietnam.

I'll take an overnight train to Quang Ngai to visit the My Lai massacre site. This event took place about 1969 during the America's aggression in Vietnam.

Published by the media worldwide it told the story of a horrendous act of brutality and murder of up to 500 innocent Vietnam men woman and children civilians by the US military. At 1:30 pm I headed out to take my motorbike back and then to visit some friends in a cafe along the Saigon River.

Following which I made my hotel reservations for Quiang Nhai and bought a train ticket. From there I stopped to buy some antibiotics for my congestion and some food for dinner. I was tired.

This was the point where after almost 8 weeks on the road overland and 5 countries, I had finally succumbed to an upper respiratory infection. It would slowly get worse as I traveled up the coast of Vietnam.

I returned and ate some food at my guest house. I felt good at "home" this Sunday afternoon. Watched some television and rested mentally and physically.


Monday August 25, 2008
Hoang Yen Hotel Rm. 102
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

On my last day in Ho Chi Minh I packed up my Arc Tryx early in the morning before visiting with my friends for coffee.

After I walked to the tourist area to find an Internet connection. To no avail, the resources were either ridiculously expensive or not working. Typical of the tourist route.

I turned around and came back toward my guest house. I found a spot that the local kids hang out that had "reliable" dsl speed Internet connection, for about $1 an hour! I sent and received and e-mail form my girlfriend Bai Jian Jun in Beijing.

I had not heard from her in a few days, to which I assumed there was a problem. But it wasn't the case and she continued to support my desire to travel for another couple of weeks even though she hadn't seen me for 2 months. I love the Chinese woman.

About 5:00 PM I left my Guest House and flagged a motor cycle taxi to take me to the train station. Getting to the train station and scoping out the facilities, my first impression was that Vietnam train system was not as modern as I had seen in other countries, for example China and Thailand.

The train station was old and somewhat dirty. I was a little surprised since the name of the line was, I think The Peoples Independence and is the first train line to link the south with the north.

It was advertised as if it was one of the countries Icons of unification. I didn't see it that way especially after I got on the train. With an hour to wait I went to the local market to buy some food.

This is the point as I look back that my happy go lucky travel attitude which didn't include a factor of caution finally caught up with me. I picked up some food and went back to the train station to wait for departure. As departure arrived I boarded the train into the "soft seat" car.

The accommodations were reasonably comfortable, with the standard captain chair soft cushion seat. I had a isle seat next to a younger VM gentlemen and facing across from me was a younger woman and I suspected her mother. Between us was a small table.

I thought great a little table to set our food on. We had one of the tables in the coach. Almost immediately I started noticing things that slowly made me feel uncomfortable.

I hung my shoulder bag up above since the seating was a little crammed just out of arms reach. I stored my pack above me on the luggage rack.

As I got settled I gazed around making eye contact with the other passengers cautiously probing each for a possible conversation. Without too much luck I conceded that it would be a quiet trip.

I would try later to strike up a conversation, since it was a 12 hour overnight ride to Quang Ngai 1/3 of the way north up the Vietnam coastline.

The young woman across from me spoke a little bit of English, but all the other passengers were tight lipped, with a stern defensive aura projecting from them. Each one looked at me as though to say, "what are you doing here".

The woman across from me would become my best ally through the night. As I sat trying my best to feel comfortable among a train car full of Vietnamese nationalists, that seemed to be telling me in without words that I was infringing on their sovereignty.

Many of their faces were covered completely with dust cloths, especially the woman, their eyes peering out over the top glancing at me from time to time cautiously.

I think back and most of the passengers were working woman, probably farmers. As the train moved the steward came by to check tickets and although I understood to show her my ticket, and did, she mumbled something to me, that made me feel like I did something wrong.

Not very friendly at all. I looked across at my woman friend for support but she was reluctant to show any friendship toward me among her peers. I was alone.

And becoming confused and nervous. After a while I realized that the accommodations were a bit tight to get to sleep, so I grabbed my shoulder bad and my Arctyx 65 and moved myself to another car.

I was surprised to find that the only train car completely full was the one I had a ticket on, so it was easy to find a quiet less crowded car. Unfortunately the other cars were not very well taken care of, and were very dirty and smelled. I think the train was quite old.

My train ride in Myanmar and Thailand were more comfortable. I thought that with all the positive growth in Vietnam in the last 30 years that the train system was inferior to most other countries in S.E Asia.

As I settled in to try to get some sleep I sat as close to my bags as possible. Eventually I dosed off for a couple hours. In the dawn I awoke to ache muscles and 2 hours of sleep.

I reached over to my shoulder bag to bring it closer to me and to secure the zipper better. Reaching inside the bag I immediately noticed that my Canon SD1000 IS Digital Camera was gone.

Finally after almost 8 weeks on the road overland in Southeast Asia, carelessness for my private property finally caught up with me. I couldn't believe it.

I was devastated Taking pictures was probably the most important thing for me as I traveled What was I going to do. My baby was gone. I had taken nearly 900 pictures and video, in Bag an, Laos and Phnom Penh.

My traveling partner was now gone. I ran back to the coach where I had stated the ride, frantically telling anyone who could understand that my camera was stolen. My friend the young woman tried to help me, but her English was not good, and I knew my camera was gone for good.


I tried my best to humbly accept the situation. A younger Vietnamese man who spoke some English was nice enough to console me and ask if he could do anything.

After a discussion he said that he could inform the train crew that there was a robbery and that might help, get my camera back. At this point I didn't need any more attention directed toward me. Already the nationalists on board didn't want to have anything to do with me.

The worst thing for me to do was start with accusations on who stole my camera. Within a few minutes a man with a formal railroad uniform approached. I think he was the head of the train security.

He spoke very good English I was blessed, he was a very kind man, and asked me if I would like to fill out a report or if I had any idea who might have stolen my camera.

Again although I felt safe with this man, I thought, what's the use, my cameras gone I need to quickly get use to the idea. And a coach filled with Vietnamese Nationalists staring at me as if to say, "American what kind of trouble are you starting?"

I opted to sit down, hold my property securely, and rest my shattered mind through the remaining early morning hours of the trip to Quiang Nhai. As we approached Quang Ngai the steward came by to collect the blanket each of us recieved the night before.

I had brought mine to the other coach, and in my panic about my camera had left it there. A short seemingly scolding from the steward sent me frighteningly running in search of it.

I came back and told the steward that i misplaced it or someone took, at which point my woman friend interpreted. Immediately confusion broke out with the conductor yelling that I must find the blanket. It was Railroad property.

At this point my friend translated again that I had lost it. All of a sudden a gentleman from 4 rows back started yelling at me, my friend and the conductor. At least that's what I interpreted. I felt like it's really over now what have I done.

My SE Asia trip is over. I was scared. The lone Westerner and American at that on the train, I had finally gotten into trouble. I think the man yelling was suggesting that I pay for the blanket, and that I should not get preferential treatment.

His voice had aggressive tone. Later I asked my woman friend what had I done that was so bad? She said "you and I are bad people". I'll never understand what she meant.

But I do understand that there were a lot of passengers that were not happy that I was on their train. Once more we approached Quiang Nhai, the woman and her young male friend help me get a taxi, out of the train station.

I was grateful for that. The only kindness that I experienced on the entire train ride.


Tuesday August 26, 2008
Quang Ngai, Vietnam

I took a taxi to my hotel with the young Vietnamese man so he could show me a store to buy a new camera. Quiang Nhai was hot.

I was tired, had a headache and wasn't feeling well. I checked into my hotel after the usual orientation and had a shower. Then purchased a new camera, and found a place to have a coffee.

It was about 1pm and I was on schedule to visit My Lai this afternoon and depart for Dong Ha in the morning. After chatting with some locals at the coffee shop I hired a moto taxi driver to take me to My Massacre Lai.

This site was located east of the city of 15 miles. The ride took us through typical small Vietnam villages across flat terrain of rice fields dotted with small monuments and farmers houses. My driver was a friendly man and I trusted him so the ride was pleasant.

We arrived at My Lai after about a 30 minute ride. The monument was about the size of a 100 acre park surrounded by a wall with a large gated entrance.

The entrance was well taken care of with an attractive sign welcoming visitors to the Son My Lai Memorial. The driver parked his bike and sat down to wait as I went inside.

I would spend as i usually did at an attraction 2-3 hours which was OK with the driver. We got along well. Inside the gate was a care for large 2 story reception hall with stairs that led up to the entry.

Quiet with palm trees blowing in the breeze and the afternoon sun filtering through the trees across the park. I was again experiencing America's involvement its the Vietnam War.

I was in awe to see with my own eyes what I had heard about so many times as a young man. My Lai is a memorial site for the casualties of the massacre committed by the US Army in 1969.

Up to 500 innocent Vietnamese men, woman and children were murdered in one of the the most renowned massacres of innocent people in modern history. I was finally seeing with my own eyes the truth, of what is part of my home counties history. I was moved.

As I walked around the grounds, the sites where displayed as what was left of the foundation of houses where the families lived. Welcoming you to the site is a well preserved sign that lists the family members names and ages.

Father, Mother and Children. At one point I engaged in a conversation with an elderly man on the other side of the fence from the park. The man was puttering around with some flower and vegetable plants.

His aged, wrinkled face and quiet humble presence appeared to reveal the horror of a country under siege for decades. I couldn't help but imagine what he may have seen here 40 years ago. My heart pounded.

As the sun retreated through the palm tree leaves I spotted a huge mural about 20 meters long by 5 meters high. It was a beautiful multi-colored work of art depicting the families as they attempted to escape for there lives, and there dreams for Unification.

A very well taken care of piece of artwork, sculptured by very talented artists. Slowly I headed back toward the entrance savoring the experience of seemingly living in history. I met up with my driver and took one last picture in front of the entrance.

A trip well worth it I totally enjoyed experiencing history in the countryside of Vietnam at the My Lai Memorial. I would recommend to all that have interest in seeing the truth about America's History in Vietnam and to those who are moved by prayer for the innocent Vietnamese Families.

My driver suggested (convinced) to me that we take the long route back to Quang Ngai, and stop by the the local coastline of Vietnam.

That was OK with me he was driving, and traveling alone I never have to be anywhere, so I said sure lets do it. We rode into a small beach community, parked the bike, and walked out under the umbrella lined beach to some chairs.

He had a couple beers. I had a coffee and some water. I think he was hoping I would buy him dinner, but he was wrong.

We watched the surf and the kids swimming then headed back to Quiang Nhai. Ending the day I regrouped at my hotel, then went out for a bite to eat. I stopped a small cafe operated by some very friendly people.

Had a great time talking with them and met the family. It was a good way to end the day.

I needed to converse with some Vietnamese to make myself convinced that there were good people here in Qiang Nhai, after my very sketchy (scary) experience on the train.

A tough train ride here to Quang Ngai, however well worth the trip to see My Lai and the local people were very pleasant.


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Next time on Different Perspectives join me as I depart Quang Ngai to the most exciting part of my visit to Vietnam. I'll go by bus up the coast to my next stop Dong Ha Vietnam. Here I'll spend time visiting Kasan, and the Ho Chi Minh Trail in the heart of the DMZ.

Please join me, until then……. “Those who accept that we all die someday settle their quarrels.” From The Book Dhammapada. A gift given to me in Mandalay, Myanmar by my friend Hnin Hnin Yu

qing man zou
peace always

Edward
Different Perspectives

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