We travelled by train from Hoi An to Hue. It is supposedly one of the world's great train rides - but the haze, smog, dirty windows and fact that we were on the wrong side of the train facing backwards made it a little difficult to work out why. But hey, we weren't at work, and had a packet of Oreo cookies to console us. It was dark in Hue, but the drive from the airport was interesting - much cleaner and some pretty smart street lighting here. Rooms at the Huong Giang Hotel are gorgeous, but staff look at me blankly when I ask if this was once a school. I read a great book recently by Uyen Nicole Duong, called Daughters of the River Huong (the first of an interesting trilogy) talking about her
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