Ko Phi Phi - The Stunning Jewel of the Andaman Sea

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Have you ever heard SO much hype about a particular place that by the time you actually get there, it's kind of a let-down?

Yeah, I've had my share of that, too. (I may have to join the witness protection program for admitting these, but here we go). Truthfully, that was my experience with New York City, which I visited for the first time when I was 19 (right after 9/11). It's not that it's NOT a great city - it is. But you hear SO MUCH about how it's the greatest city on earth and the stuff dreams are made of and blah blah blah...and, well, for me it just didn't live up to all that hype.

Well, if you're a travel junkie, or a sun worshiper, or a beach lover, you've definitely heard of (and drooled over photos of) the island of Ko Phi Phi in southern Thailand. Stunning emerald waters, sheer cliffs, twin lagoons that look like something from another planet...it can't actually look like that, right? It can't POSSIBLY be as beautiful as it looks in pictures, because nothing ever is...right?

WRONG.

I've been saying it about New Zealand for years, and I'm going to say it about Ko Phi Phi, too. Whatever you've heard, whatever you've seen, whatever vision you have in your head of the ultimate tropical paradise: IT'S BETTER.

The amazing thing is...this wasn't even peak season yet! This was back in October, which is technically the time of year when the weather is "bad" and the water is "cloudy." Heck, if this is bad weather and cloudy water, I can't even begin to imagine this place during the "good" time of year (December-April).

Anyway, let's start from the beginning. We awoke early and bid farewell to Koh Lanta as we boarded our ferry to Ko Phi Phi. An hour or so later, we were pulling up to Tonsai Pier, the arrival port for all incoming boats and ferries. You're gawking at the cliffs and the color of the water as you arrive, but it still hasn't really hit you yet that it's real. You disembark, pay your 20 baht "island clean-up" fee (about 60 cents), and, admittedly, get pounced on by about 100 touts as soon as you set foot on the island. Taxi boats? Need a hotel? Where you staying? Yes, it's annoying, but you simply shoo them away, walk 50 steps from the pier, and it stops.

Don't let that tiny bit of touristy aggravation stop you!

This may sound like a strange comparison, but as I walked through the narrow little streets of the town, I was instantly reminded of Venice. I'll tell you why. Venice is one of few cities on earth where the only modes of transportation are boats and walking. That's it. There are no cars, no bikes, no scooters, no skateboards. Nothing on wheels, at all. Period.

Ko Phi Phi is exactly the same. You have two options for getting around the island - hop in a boat, or walk. No bikes, no cars, absolutely nothing wheeled or motorized. Just your feet. It's pretty fantastic.

Another thing you instantly notice about the town is how new everything looks. There's a reason for that. Ko Phi Phi was one of the hardest-hit islands in the 2004 Boxing day tsunami. If you've seen any video footage (youtube it), the narrow isthmus of the island (between the two lagoons) literally disappeared beneath the waves. As in, everything at sea level was completely obliterated, and thousands of people lost their lives. So everything that you pass "in town" is less than 11 years old, and a lot of new construction is still going up. Now there are tsunami evacuation route signs posted all over the island, and there's even a tsunami "shelter" built several stories off the ground, should a similar disaster ever occur again.

Anyway, back to the town. It's a labyrinth of street food stalls, restaurants, guesthouses, hostels, tattoo parlors, and massage parlors (the shady kind). Yes, it's "touristy" and it's definitely a haven for dreadlocked, tattooed backpackers who've holed up on the island indefinitely...but it's kind of awesome. There's such a good buzz in the air, a laid-back (but not at all sleepy) feel to the island. Everyone's chilling on the beach or boating during the day, enjoying the plentiful and absurdly cheap alcohol, and at night the town comes alive with a million different bars, dance clubs, fire shows, Muay Thai kickboxing matches, and beachfront parties.

It's right there if you want it, and there are quieter parts, too, if all-night parties aren't your thing. That's another thing that's so great about this island. Whether you're a backpacker on a tight budget or a millionaire who wants 5-star luxury, it's all here. It can be as expensive or as affordable as you want it to be, and that's pretty rare in such a premium location. Usually if you want this kind of natural beauty, you have to pay for it. But it's accessible to everyone, even those who can only pay $10 a night for a dorm room and eat $1 street food for every meal.

Trust me, you wouldn't be complaining. Not with views like these!

So we got a little lost trying to find our hotel - had to ask for directions about 10 times - but eventually landed at Ibiza House, about 20 steps from the emerald waters of Loh Dalum Bay. It was too early to check in, so we dumped our backpacks and headed immediately in search of something to eat. No shortage of amazing street food here, so we quickly ordered up some Thai "pancakes" stuffed with eggs, cheese, and potatoes. Sooooooooooooo wonderfully tasty, and all for about $2.

With our bellies happy, we grabbed a mango milkshake and a few bottles of water and began the (rather arduous) climb to Phi Phi Viewpoint, located high atop one of the island's hills. I'm not gonna lie - it's a bit of a climb, especially in blazing sunlight and 90+ degree heat.

But to say the effort is worth it would probably be the understatement of my life.

You simply can't stop staring at it. Even now, I'm looking at these photos, and I KNOW I took them, but it hasn't sunk in yet that my eyes actually saw this. It's like someone Photoshopped a big 'ol tropical backdrop and placed it up there at the viewpoint, because it can't possibly be real.

And yet...it is.

So if you've ever dreamed of coming here, I'm telling you right now...DO IT. Quit your job, sell a kidney, whatever it takes. You will NOT be disappointed. Trust me on that one.

Anyway, where was I? Oh yeah. The viewpoint. We spent a good hour or so up there, getting intoxicated on the view, before we reluctantly descended back to sea level. Still too early to check in to our hotel, so we changed into our swimsuits and made the long 20-step trek to the "emerald" (western) side of the island and Loh Dalum Bay.

Yep, it really looks like that. Nope, these photographs aren't Photoshopped. There's nothing a computer could do make this look better than it already does. And my photos, of course, don't even begin to do the real thing justice. Seriously, you've never even SEEN the colors blue and green until you come here. I grew up in south Florida - which has some pretty spectacular water - and even that can't compare. And the sky is so blue it actually hurts your eyes (like a crystal clear day in the mountains of Colorado).

And - keep in mind - this is "off" season. This is "not the best" weather. It "can be better" than this.

My brain simply can't compute that.

So, Jeremy and I - the self-proclaimed not-beachy-people - spent about 4 hours on the powdery white sand, until we were delightfully sunburned and hopelessly in love with the island. More savory pancakes, a few cocktails...oh, have I mentioned the rum buckets yet? For about $5-$7, you get an actual bucket with an actual BOTTLE of rum, whiskey, etc. Throw in a can of Coke, or Red Bull, or both, and you have the perfect recipe for the worst hangover of your life (WHOOPS! I mean, the TIME of your life!)

Nah, don't worry. No hangovers here. We were pretty much just drunk on the sunshine and all the Vitamin D we haven't been getting back home.

Yes, if I had to sum up Ko Phi Phi, I'd say it's way too much fun for way too little money. You should have to pay millions for an experience and a view like this. Not that I'm complaining...I'm so grateful that it IS affordable for a couple of average (translation = basically broke) Joes like us.

I'd love to recount some crazy tales of the wild nightlife that Ko Phi Phi is so famous for, but alas...the highlight of our night was dinner, strolling along the beach, and watching a few minutes of a fire show.

So, aside from the touts when you first arrive and some questionable "massage" parlors, this place is fantastic. Had we known how awesome it was, we would have extended our stay by a few more days...or weeks...or years...

The cool thing about living in Bangkok is that this stunning island is a mere 45-minute plane ride away, and tickets average around $30 each way, so you might see our faces down there on a semi-regular basis...

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