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Published: December 2nd 2006
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The only way to see Rai Ley
Phra Nang, our favourite beach on Rai Ley, as seen through Carla's Fake Chanel's We are slowly moving down in our standards of overnight train journeys. Our latest (11 hours from Bangkok en route to Krabi) was a compartment/dormitory with around 20 beds each with a curtain; this was Matt’s favourite so far as he felt like he was in a den!! Our fellow passengers were a friendly enough gang though the relaxed atmosphere was ruined somewhat by the middle aged German couple who stood drinking in the area just outside our compartment shouting “it’s only Rock ‘n’ Roll and I like it” whilst throwing beer bottles onto the tracks, later they actually smashed the window of the train door, the Thais in our compartment had no hesitation in pointing the finger.
We arrived at 5.30am and faced an hour and a half wait for the bus to take us the three hour journey to Krabi. We have taken many bus trips now and they usually include stopping to pick up waifs and strays at random points along the roadside who never appear to pay, so when the bus stopped for the first time minutes into the journey we weren’t surprised. We eventually realised we were on a public bus (not a tourist bus
Beautiful Girl, Beautiful Beach
Its a hard life fellas (many browny points gained for photo title!!) as we had thought) and therefore it probably wasn’t the most direct route, proven by the fact that the distance to Krabi on the road signs we passed actually increased at some points!
Krabi Town is not a beach but a gateway to numerous other beaches, we had arrived not knowing which to head for so made our way to Ao Nang resort where boats are available to other beaches. We ended up staying for 3 nights, the guidebooks slag it off a bit but we quite liked it. We noticed a change in atmosphere, fewer backpackers and more holiday makers, which unfortunately means higher prices. The first few guesthouses we stopped at were way out of our budget, we eventually found some bungalows called Cashew Nut where we bargained for 650 baht (less than a tenner) a night with aircon and hot water though when we came to check out they only charged us 500 a night and we kept pretty quiet!
Ao Nang and the other resorts sit amidst beautiful scenery, clear water and limestone cliffs off shore. We decided to take a closer look with a 5 island tour, this enabled us to snorkel amongst
Ever get the feeling you're being followed
Carla senses a presence in the caves just off shore from Phra Nang beach beautiful brightly coloured fish and relax on gorgeous white beaches. On one island Matt had gone for a wander and came back shouting that he had seen a lizard the size of a dog, knowing men’s ability to stretch the size of things I was expecting a pretty small lizard but what I actually saw was huge, from nose to tail it must have been 6ft, and watching its slow precise walk through the island’s jungle made me think of a dinosaur.
Our proximity to the sea has made for some great fish dinners. Ao Nang has a seafood street and a night market each with a host of places to eat all displaying their catches of the day. I had green lipped mussels one night at the market and the following evening we pushed the boat out with a whole Snapper at seafood street. After the Snapper we headed to Hippies Bar where a fireshow was underway, the host announced that the following night would be a candlelit party with more fire, live music and best of all a free buffet.
Obviously we were back at Hippies the next night, the free buffet was much better than
One nights wages...
.. Matts reward for performing was consumed a little too quickly making this the last photo of the evening expected. Once the music was underway the bar announced that if anyone sang two songs they would get a free Whiskey bucket (basically a plastic bucket filled with Whiskey, Coke, ice and straws). Matt, or Mark as they insisted on calling him, rose to the challenge singing ‘Redemption Song’ and ‘Wonderwall’ and had a stinking hangover the next day to show for his bucket.
Unfortunately for Matt’s head we were leaving the next day heading for a peninsular called Railey connected to Ao Nang but due to the islands cliffs only accessible by boat. We had already visited and found a place to stay, Highlands Bungalows on the East Beach are designed like traditional Thai houses, on stilts to avoid flooding. The rooms are basic, no hot water, mattresses on the floor and a friendly gecko but they are set amongst lush green tropical plants with a huge limestone rock in the background, it feels like a secret retreat far from the busy beaches. We caught a longtail boat taxi from Ao Nang, which meant wading into the sea complete with backpacks, doing the same the Railey West Beach side and then walking the km to the room (mainly
Monkeys, Caves and Coves
Phra Nang beach - Rai Ley, not a bad place to hang out for a few days uphill).
In Railey we spent 5 nights under the mozzie net to ward off any beasties, and we could hear plenty. The days were long and hot sometimes cooled with a shower in the late afternoon. This section of the trip has been the most relaxing and the least active so far though there have been some highlights:
*Matt getting his hair cut in a salon staffed almost entirely by lady boys
*Kayaking round the cliffs and caves at sea, bravely heading through a cave only to spot a snake on the way out.
*Getting up at 7.30am to go for a run which ended up being an exercise in army torture, including an uphill trek, wading through the sea and clambering over rocks.
*Realising all 3 ATMs were broken and we only had 1gbp left. We initially decided Matt should go on a mission back to Ao Nang (one way would use the precious quid) but found a place doing Visa advances at a whopping 7%!c(MISSING)ommission (suspiciously next to the ATM with the ‘Not Work’ sign).
*Sheltering under a cave at our favourite beach, Phra Nang, from one of the tropical storms.
*Watching the sunset
Welcome to Rai Ley
Getting to our Bungalow in the intense heat doesn't seem so much of a problem in these surroundings on Railey's West Beach outside a bar on bamboo mats with a cold Singha.
We decided to head back to Ao Nang as there were a few sights we hadn’t seen. Due to our dishonesty at Cashew Nut Bungalow we couldn’t go back and ended up staying at Blue Ba You bungalows, officially breaking our 10 quid budget for the first time (we don't count Japan in these budgets!!).
We have quickly learnt that travelling plays havoc with your feet, they are usually in flip flops which leaves them open to all sorts of injuries, the latest section of our trip saw one of my big toenails fall off (technically caused by wearing wellies that were two sizes too small at V Festival) whilst the other is also on the way out, in addition whilst visiting the islands I slipped getting onto the boat causing me to cut the webbing between two of my toes and creating a bit of excitement with a small pool of blood (plus 4 days of moaning about the bruises I received and wondering whether my toe was actually broken...it wasn't!). Matt (who has already lost 4 toenails in his life!) tripped
Sunset over Nop Parratthara Beach - Ao Nang
Going for a run along here makes exercise so much easier on a brick step and chipped his toenail, it is now a bluey black colour and looks to be on the way out, then he caught his toe a second time and currently has a bloody flap of skin hanging off it. We are now understanding why everyone we see wears Crocs, which are sort of unattractive plastic clogs/surgeons shoes in bright colours although as yet we have managed to resist buying them....watch this space!!
So now we plan to head to Ko Phi Phi by boat and then onto Koh Lanta, no doubt as with Railay the internet will be 3 times as expensive and 10 times as slow so blogs may be a little less regular.
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Winn et Moza
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Hanging About
What a fab photo you both look so happy, relaxed and contented!! the best photo of you both we have seen for a long time!!!(bearing in mind thatat one time Matt would run from the camera!!) you both look fab and very envious of the tans!! Rai Ley looks beautiful and the shot of the long tailed boats has such beautiful scenery that we really wish we were there with you. Weather here as broken and the start of winter has arrived, however your blogs chill us out and for the time it takes to read them we are with you in spirit (not necessarily the whisky type) keep playing the guitar Matt if only to get the drinks in!! love you both remember we love and miss you both love always Mozza et Winn a bientot!!